Question about Protron PLTV3250 32 in. LCD Television

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Power just cut off and will not come back on. I see that this is a comon problem with this model from what I have been reading.

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  • Master
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Check the power supply; look for bad caps with leaking/bulging tops, check to see if you have standby +5vdc at the power supply connector, the front red indicator will not be on if you do not have this +5vdc standby voltage due to shorted out Q7 and ZD4.
http://s807.photobucket.com/albums/yy352/budm/Protron%20PLTV%203250/

http://s807.photobucket.com/albums/yy352/budm/

http://www.fixya.com/support/r5093881-lcd_flat_panel_tv_troubleshooting_guide
Power supply: http://www.google.com/products?rlz=1T4GGIH_enUS282US283&q=pltv+3250+power+supply&um=1&ie=UTF-8&ei=9lIDTL7XO4fcM7HA-Ds&sa=X&oi=product_result_group&ct=title&resnum=1&ved=0CCgQrQQwAA

http://www.fixya.com/support/r5093881-lcd_flat_panel_tv_troubleshooting_guide
http://www.fixya.com/support/r6150077-basic_lcd_monitors_troubleshooting
http://www.fixya.com/support/r7406380-tv_training_manuals
Failed TV and Monitors pictures: http://s807.photobucket.com/albums/yy352/budm/
Learn about bad caps: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Capacitor_plague
Parts: www.shopjimmy.com
Capacitors kit: http://lcdalternatives.auctivacommerce.com/Default.aspx he can make you a set of caps.
Or www.digikey.com just make sure to use caps with low ESR, 105c, high ripple current, long life rating such as PANASONIC FM or FC series.

Posted on Mar 21, 2011

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  • Expert
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Yes your right about that and it works on all type of electronic TV. You see the TV has this electronic board and it powered by DC. And the source of it is the power supply.
if you have encountered a dead set TV or On and Off in your unit try to check the power supply.
It may have some bulgy capacitor or leaky one. This causes insufficient power output or fluctuation that causes the unit to trip. Defective power MOSFET for swicthing, open fuse, etc. But don't worry these problems are repairable. Once it fix your TV will works as new.
Well good day...

Posted on Mar 20, 2011

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  • Protron Master
  • 5,568 Answers

In many sets, this is an indication of a failed power supply voltage.

There are at least two supplies in every set; one is active always so the set can receive commands from the remote and requires minimal power and rarely fails.

The other is turned on when the set is to be used and this one, is the likely culprit.


The type of supply used in modern sets is called a 'switched mode' power supply that operates at higher (than audible) frequencies in the range of 50,000 cycles and up. The supply first makes DC voltage from the AC input of 100-220 volts, then chops it at the elevated frequency.

This design is much more efficient than the older type of 'linear' supply but is more complicated and critical in the quality of parts used.


These modern supplies are fussy about the quality of certain components and most will eventually fail due to crappy electrolytic capacitors, a part used for filtering and in feedback paths and they, by nature, don't really like these higher frequencies; they tend to break down chemically and lose their value until finally not performing as capacitors any more.

This causes the supply to fail at starting up and more rarely, to cease operating while in service and sometimes develop internal losses that cause it to heat up and burst or at least bleed chemicals either of which causes their final death.


There are capacitors that are more resistant to this kind of decay but cost 2-5 times as much as common types and with the severe price competition in consumer electronics, manufacturers save where they can and use parts that will at least survive the warranty period.


I suggest you contact the service center for your area and inquire about the cost of board repair or replacement. If the latter, keep the failed board since there are small shops (I was one before retirement) with the skills to repair these at a more reasonable cost.


Before opening the back of your set, pull the plug and allow to sit; preferably overnight.

There are nasty voltages inside that you want to avoid.


The main power supply is often on a separate board, will have larger-than-average parts on it, with cylindrical parts (mostly capacitors) and some larger squarish parts (chokes and transformers) and most likely a 'heat sink,' a finned aluminum structure with parts attached to it.

Look for a tag with a part number on it and have this available when you start looking for service or new board.

If you believe you have identified the supply, look for a fuse which may be any of three cases but will be marked with a component number such as "F1." With any kind of meter, this can be checked for continuity, then replaced. If it blows a second time, it will need repair.


These assemblies are nearly always only plugged into the rest of the set with clearly dissimilar plugs so incorrect connections are somewhat prevented.


If you are unsure of yourself, take several pictures of this area before disconnecting anything that you can then refer to if uncertain.

Remember, many assemblers of most of these just recently came in from small farming villages in Asia so assembly is kept simple.


Good luck-

Posted on Mar 20, 2011

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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