Question about Hitachi 57F500 57" Rear Projection HDTV-Ready Television

2 Answers

Picture is dark with a green outline on objects. Contrast adjustment has no effect. Gets darker within one hour of use to the point of not being able to view.

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  • robfrasco Mar 20, 2011

    Hitachi RPT model 57f500a
    Picture went dark with green halo on objects.
    Within one hour of use picture is not viewable.
    This happened suddenly.

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2 Answers

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  • Hitachi Master
  • 2,098 Answers

Hi Rob,

This is an indication of faulty convergence board inside. Replace the convergence chip and some of the resistor in that board and your unit will back to normal again. You may also replace the entire convergence board for your convinient. If you don't have necessary tools and test instrument and can't do the job yourself, I would advice you to look for a qualified technician to isolate the problem.

Hope I helped you.
Have a nice day!
Thanks for using Fixya.

Posted on Mar 20, 2011

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  • Hitachi Master
  • 12,061 Answers

Http://www.eserviceinfo.com/index.php?what=search2&searchstring=Hitachi+57F500

Above is your service and repair manual. to download and print out, you will need this if you decide to DIY (NOT recommended), and in any event the repairer will be extremely appreciative of a copy, and it will expedite any repairs that need to be made. (A good engineer should have one at hand, however it can never hurt to provide it.)

Now whenever a screen is dark etc, we must always suspect that the Voltage that is suppling it is too low, for whatever reason. Often it is because the SMPSU is faulty, or a component(s) are faulty, and drawing too much current, and thus dropping the Voltage. The fact it get darker indicates that the fault worsens with time and heat no doubt. (may be finadable with freeze spray?)

RP TV's are notoriously difficult to repair due to their basic over-complexity. We engineers quite dislike RP TV's and I for one would NEVER recommend that one ever purchase one, for a myriad of reasons. Plasma or LCD LED TV's in the larger sizes are a much better option, and if one must have a GIANT screen, then a good projector is a better bet.


I'm my professional opinion the absolutely best thing to do, is to contact Hitachi, either the head or a local office, and ask them for a referral to an Authorised servicing center. Either take it to them or ask for a service call. Now when in contact, ask for a "Quote" for the repair before allowing any repair work to be undertaken. This way you can then make an informed decision as to what to do, repair or replace. (Often clients prefer to put any large amounts of monies, that would have been outlaid on any repairs, towards a new/used modern set, with a warranty)

You see these days with sets such as this often the cost of repairs can quickly approach the cost of a NEW comparable unit, with a warranty. As an aside here, statistics tell us that a unit over 3 years old IF repaired this unit, will usually fail again within the next 6 to 12 months anyway, with a differing problem, or a repeat of the same/similar. (This is usually due to the stresses on "Other" .component already slightly damaged.)

Posted on Mar 20, 2011

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2 Answers

Contrast really dark but seems to improve after the tv has been on several hours


Hi:
You may have a problem with the inverters in the unit, they are responsible for lighting up the back panel. Check or have checked the power supply voltage to the inverters, should be around 18-24 volts DC. Also leaky capacitors on the power supply will cause this issue as well as leaky or puffy capacitors on the inverter.

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Green staticy looking outlines


What is model no and brand of your tv ?

How old is your TV?

Have you changed or replaced any parts recently ?


post back this details




SAM ANDERSON

Sep 23, 2008 | Televison & Video

1 Answer

Dark picture


Hmm my dad's old t.v. just cut out on him it took awile to turn on this my be the end of ur tv so this might be a power problem but older t.v. loose there colour on the screen my uncle had a like 10-15 year old t.v the screen was like green when it was light but when u turned of the light or closed the blind's it's picture was ok so try that.

Feb 02, 2010 | Hitachi 53FDX01B 53" Rear Projection...

2 Answers

In the past few day i've noticed the picture is


BRIGHTNESS. Your owner's manual probably says that the brightness setting is used to control "brightness" or "picture intensity" or something other fuzzy non-descript term. The truth is that brightness is used to set the BLACK level in the picture.
On most TVs and projectors in use today, brightness is set too high. That's because people think "a bright picture is good, so I will set it as bright as I can get." Well, that's nice in theory, but entirely wrong in practice. Setting the brightness level too high makes a black tuxedo look gray rather than black. It muddies up the shadow areas, and reduces the overall snap and crispness that the picture would have if properly calibrated.
To find the right setting for brightness, go to the image in your movie that has textured blacks and hopefully some shadow/low light areas in which there is detail. Then freeze on that frame. As you move the brightness control down, the intensity of the blacks will increase, and shadows will get darker. As you move the control all the way to zero, you will (hopefully) see that the low light shadow areas will also go to solid black and lose their detail.
The optimum setting for brightness is achieved at just the point where true black objects appear as black as your system will make them while retaining as much visible detail in the shadow areas. Above this point the blacks appear to go grayer. Below this point you lose detail in the shadows. On many video systems, this optimum point is toward the lower end of the brightness scale. But find the point that looks correct to you regardless of where it is on the scale.
CONTRAST. The contrast control is similarly confusing. It is also often set too high on the theory that contrast is good, and therefore we might as well get the most we can out of our set by turning it all the way up. In fact, the contrast setting is used to control the intensity of the brightest highlights in the picture, so it is (oddly enough) the opposite of brightness control.
First, find your test scene in which you find textured whites in bright light, and freeze that frame. You are looking for the brightest elements in the picture in which you want to retain visible detail.
Let's assume you have a whitewashed fence in sunlight. If you start with the contrast set low, the fence will appear light gray rather than white. As you move the contrast control up, the fence will get whiter. Eventually details in the texture of the fence will begin to disappear.
If you continue to push contrast past the optimum point, the wood-grain texture of the fence will go solid white and all visible detail will be obliterated. Push contrast up even a little further, and our fenceposts might actually appear to expand very slightly due to a glow around the edges. This phenomenon, called "blooming" is a definite sign that your contrast setting is overcooking the image (and maybe your picture tube as well—don't ever leave the contrast control set this high!!!)
Find the point at which whites look white while retaining as much texture detail as possible. This is your optimum contrast setting. On most video systems, this setting is toward the higher end of the scale, but it can be anywhere. Find the point that looks correct to you. (By the way, unlike TV's, digital projectors will not bloom)
Now…note the following: brightness and contrast can be to some degree interactive. Your new contrast setting may have affected your brightness. So return to the brightness scene and verify that your blacks are still black, and you still have maximum detail in the shadows. Adjust it if necessary, then return and adjust the contrast setting once again if necessary. (You can see that this is much easier if the black and white elements you are testing all appear in the same image!)
COLOR. The color control on your set determines the level of color intensity in the image. One of the most common errors people make in calibrating their video systems is overdriving the color. That's what makes Larry King look reddish-orange on the TV at the gym. Overdriving color is common because once again, people naturally think, "I want to get as much color as I can out of this color TV, so I will crank it up some to make sure I get the most out of it!" No. Bad mistake.
If you move the color setting down to zero you will notice that your picture will turn into a black and white image. The optimum setting for color is achieved by increasing the setting just to the point where colors look natural and not a bit more! Flesh tones should look natural and without any hint of an unnatural glow. Grass should look naturally green rather than screaming spray-paint green.
When adjusting color, make sure that your test image has relatively unsaturated colors. Flesh tones or natural landscapes are ideal. It is impossible to set color properly if you are using a brilliant red Ferrari as your test subject.
On the large majority of video systems, the optimum setting for color is somewhere near the middle of the scale. However, trust your eyes for the optimum setting and think "what looks like the most natural, accurate reproduction of reality?" Any overdriving of color will make the image look artificial.
TINT or HUE. The tint control adjusts color balance rather than color intensity. It is an easy control to set properly, but for some reason many people don't get it right. When flesh tones look either too green or too magenta, a phenomenon you see with amazing frequency, it is because the tint control is not set properly.
Find a human face and freeze-frame it. (In choosing your test subject, note that lighter skin tones will show errors in tint more readily than darker skin tones). As you move the tint control to one end of the spectrum, the face turns green; as you move it to the other extreme, the face turns magenta (red+blue).
The correct setting for tint is the point near the middle of the scale at which you can detect no hint of either green or magenta. It is the most neutral point between the two extremes. The flesh tone looks the most natural at this point.
SHARPNESS or DETAIL. The final setting is sharpness or detail. Now, pray tell, who in their right mind wouldn't want the sharpest, most detailed picture they could get? And since there is a control that lets you turn it up, why not turn it up? That's what many folks do, and of course it's exactly the wrong thing to do.
The sharpness control adds processed information to the picture that is NOT part of the original video signal. It adds artificially highlighted edges, and makes the picture look less natural than it otherwise would. This is most evident along the continuous edge of a dark object against a middle-toned background. When sharpness is overdriven the dark edge will be outlined by a white ringing effect that increases contrast just along the edge of your dark object. That edge "highlighting" effect is created by the sharpness control. It is an artificial manipulation of the image. It wasn't in the original scene, and it shouldn't be on your screen either.
On most televisions, the optimum setting for sharpness is zero. On many digital projectors, the optimum setting is either in the low or middle part of the scale. Picture tube televisions and digital projectors behave differently in this regard; on a digital projector it is often possible to fuzz the image by setting sharpness too low.
Now look at your picture with the sharpness turned down or off depending on what works best on your system. You will see a smoother, more natural image. It might take some getting used to, since you may be accustomed to viewing video with all the artificial edge enhancements that create the illusion of added sharpness.
However, when the interference and noise from the artificial sharpness enhancer is removed, you are seeing the most genuine reproduction of the video signal that your projector or TV is capable of. And if you view it for a while, you will gain an appreciation for just how smooth, natural, and satisfying the picture can really look.

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1 Answer

Picture has become progressively dark 27'' TV JVC AV-27320


disgaussing will not help this problem..i am scared your picture tube problem or try to change the crt socket first it is not cost much

Jul 01, 2009 | Televison & Video

1 Answer

Picture gradually going dark


turn the screen up a little on the flyback..

Dec 16, 2008 | Toshiba 50A61 50" Rear Projection...

2 Answers

Dark picture


do you get all three colors? red, blue and green?

Dec 16, 2007 | Panasonic PT-51G44 51" Rear Projection...

1 Answer

No contrast


first turn your color all way off or down.try turning your contrast way down as far as it will go you should see a darker picture. now bring up the brightness to a point half way. bring the contrast up to see grays and whites and blacks...adjust brightness more if need be. now you should see a nice black and white picture. no bring your color up last ...not saturate but to your liking. if you stilll got problems i bet your video out transistor is shorted....meaning shop work.

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1 Answer

Image adjustment functions


SHARPNESS - The function is to adjust sharpness of capturing images. CONTRAST - The function is to adjust contrast (distinction between light and dark) of capturing images. SATURATION - The function is to set color depth of capturing images. GRADATION - In this function, you can select the brightness of an entire image. It is suitable when you want to add a brighter effect to a bright object (Hi Key) and a darker effect to a dark object (Low Key).

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