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I have a 2006 GE WHDRE526 top load washer that is not spinning. Makes appropriate clicking sound but does not engage, it hums. Would it be the pump?

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

  • 641 Answers

SOURCE: My washer does not wash the clothes or go through the spin cycle.

It sound like a belt problem. Try to move tub manually first, in case it move smoothly -open the front panel, the belt should be between the motor and the drive pulley (lower front). In case it torn or not in its place, you should replace it. In case it doesn't move smoothly - maybe that a sock or other piece of clothing get between the clothes tub and the outer tub and prevent tub's spining. If this is the situation, it should be removed. Good luck !!

Posted on Jun 02, 2006

jsrock516
  • 5911 Answers

SOURCE: top load kenmore elite washer model 110.23032102

Sounds like you could have a bad motor coupling. When they go bad they usually shear off and will cause the drive motor to simply free spin and the tub will remain idle. The pump still works because it is driven by the front shaft of the drive motor. Here's how to check and replace:

1. Unplug washing machine.

2. Remove console. This can be accomplished in one of two ways depending on which type of console you have.

a. If the console has removable end caps, the caps lift off by prying on the top from the back of the washer. The cap will pull off towards you as you are facing the unit from the front of the washer. There will be a screw under each end cap that you will need to remove.

b. If the console does not have removable end caps, you will need to slide a putty knife under the front corner of each side and push in while lifting up. There is a retaining clip under each side that has to be released.

3. Once the console has been released it will lift up and fold back over the back of the washer in its resting position. Use care not to stress the small plastic hinges that hold it on. They can break easily.

4. Under the console will be two large brass colored clips. Take a large flat blade screwdriver and place it in the groove of the clip on the washer top. With the screwdriver firmly in the groove, push away from you towards the back of the washer. This will release the clips.

5. Disconnect the lid switch connector plug. This is the white colored plug on the washer top under the console.

6. Remove the washer casing. Open the lid of the washer. Using one hand, grip under the front rim of the washer opening. Do not grab the wash tub, just the casing. Tilt the washer case from the back first towards you, slide forward slightly, and then lift up. The entire case comes off exposing the wash tub and components.

7. Remove the water pump. This is a small pump located in the front of the washer directly under the wash tub. It has two hoses leading to it. LEAVE THE DRAIN HOSES IN PLACE and remove the two retaining clips. The front of the clip pops off with a gentle pry of a screwdriver, while the back is in a keyed slot. Once released from the pump, turn the clip to remove from the slot. Pull the pump off the motor shaft and push it aside while leaving the hoses attached.

8. Remove the Drive Motor. Remove the electrical connection(s) first using care not to break any of the wires. Loosen the two 1/4" hex bolts that hold the Drive Motor retaining clips in place. Now, place one hand under the motor and lift gently while prying the top retaining clip with a screwdriver. This will release some of the tension on the clip and make it slightly easier to remove. (WARNING: the motor has some weight to it, so be prepared to support it when you release it). Once the top clip is released, the bottom one should come out fairly easy. The clips are similar to the ones that hold the water pump in place. They are inserted into a keyed slot and are slightly longer.

9. Once the Drive Motor has been removed, the Motor Coupling is directly behind it. There are two plastic three-pronged pieces with a rubber bushing connecting the two. One plastic piece is inserted on the Drive Motor shaft, while the other piece is inserted on the transmission shaft. You may have to use a screwdriver to remove the old pieces. Make sure you replace BOTH halves of the coupling even if one side appears good.


10. Insert new coupling by tapping one piece onto the transmission shaft with a hammer. Use a dowel or something solid to tap the center portion of the coupling until the opening of the coupling is flush with the shaft. DO NOT hit the prongs or they will break. Do the same for the Drive Motor. Make sure you place the coupling on the correct side of the motor. If you forget, remember that the electrical connections are on the RIGHT HAND SIDE of the motor and that the coupling goes on the REAR shaft of the motor.

11. Place the rubber bushing over the side of the coupler that is connected to the transmission. Rotate the bushing so one empty hole is facing up and the other two are facing down. Now, rotate the coupler on the motor so the prongs will line up with these holes. It's a little tricky trying to get them to line of sometimes. I usually place the lower retaining clip in its keyed slot so that it is resting on the floor. That way, when you get the motor in place, you can reach down while holding the motor up and snap the lower bracket in. You will still need to support the weight of the motor until you get the top bracket keyed into its slot and snapped back into place.

12. Reinstall electrical connector to the Drive Motor.

13. Reinstall Water pump. You may have to rotate the motor shaft slightly to get the slot on the water pump to line up correctly. Make sure you re-install retaining clips.

14. Re-install washer case. With the lid of the washer open, place grasp case under front rim and place it on the washer frame. While looking down through the washer lid opening, make sure the front lip of the case is placed UNDER the washer frame and rocked back onto the frame to ensure that the small cleats on the frame fit into the slotted grooves on the washer case base. If you do not get the case seated correctly it will rattle and vibrate while the washer is in operation.

15. Make the back of the washer fits into the washer casing on each side and reinsert the brass clips. Place the clip into the slot on the back of the washer first, and then forcefully push it into the opening on top of the washer. It will snap back into to place.

16. REINSTALL LID SWITCH CONNECTOR. It is easy to forget. If you do not reconnect it, the washer will not work correctly.

17. Reinstall console.

I know it seems like a lot, but it is an easy process if you take your time and follow the steps as written. The part is available at repairclinic.com. Just type in your model number in the Search Menu and it's located on the first page as item #1195967. Can't beat the price. Only $14 if you do it yourself!

Posted on Apr 01, 2008

  • 14 Answers

SOURCE: Kenmore Elite Washer not draining.

CHECK PUMP SOUNDS LIKE IT MAY HAVE A SOCK STUCK IN IT

Posted on May 03, 2009

MNfisherman
  • 11896 Answers

SOURCE: ge washer wont agitate and makes a humming noise

That means the motor has shorted out if it is not spinning. The brushes inside the motor may have overheated and stuck. You can try tapping on motor inside wash machine to see if it will free up.

Posted on Jun 17, 2009

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: GE spacesaver stack washer & dryer: The

the dryer won't heat up. everything else works. the drum goes around with clothes in it. it just won't heat up .

Posted on Jan 16, 2010

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Washer agitates but won't spin or drain - makes a humming/buzzing sound during those cycles


check the pump,could have a sock or something stuck in it.usually i would say to check the lid switch,open and close the lid,if you don't hear a clicking sound the washer won't go into spin or drain but if you're hearing a humming sound that's the motor watch this video
http://www.youtube.com/user/RepairClinic?v=DwV71h86Gxw it will show you how to get to the pump.pop off the two clips that hold the pump on and remove the pump just pull it backwards off of the motor shaft,now get a piece of wire and strip the ends on it,2 to 3 inches long,unplug the washer before you start to work on it,get your jumper wire and stick it into the wire harness that connects to the lid switch, don't plug it into the ground plug it into the other two wires not the green wire,i'm pretty sure it's the two outside wires and the green ground is in the middle,plug the washer back in and pull the timer out in the spin cycle,if the motor runs and spins you know something is stuck in the pump or the pump is bad,but just to make sure it's not the lid switch and it is the pump put the pump back on and start the washer again if you hear the humming it's the pump or before you pull the pump jump out the lid switch and see if it spins and drains,if it doesn't then pull the pump so you don't have to stick the bad pump back on the washer,all the lid switch is for is so the washer will not run in the spin with the lid open and some washers won't even agitate if the lid is open by using the jumper wire we are bypassing the lid switch to check the washer while it's apart.hope this helps and if you can let us know how you make out so if someone else reads this with the same problem it will help them out too.

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i found out what happened, i took apart the pump in the bottom of the washer and discovered a sock had gotton stuck in the filter. hope this can help some1.

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