Re: How do i replace front door speakers on my vauxhall...
Thats a complex situation. You have to disconnect and remove all the power window and lock devices. Leave your window up so it doesn't block the speaker. Once you remove and disconnect the power devices, they should pop out of the door panel, remove the panel gently and watch for any plastic threaded button type pieces. They fit into grooves in the panel and butterfly into the drilled holes in the door frame itself. Remove and replace the speaker. Reverse the removal process for the reinstall of the panel and power options.
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2004 Ford F350 Truck Car Radio Stereo Wiring Diagram
Car Radio Battery Constant 12v+ Wire: Light Green/Pink Car Radio Accessory Switched 12v+ Wire: Black/Violet Car Radio Ground Wire: Black Car Radio Illumination Wire: Light Blue/Red Car Stereo Dimmer Wire: N/A Car Stereo Antenna Trigger: Blue Car Stereo Amp Trigger Wire: N/A Car Stereo Amplifier Location: N/A Car Audio Front Speakers Size: N/A Car Audio Front Speakers Location: N/A Left Front Speaker Positive Wire (+): Light Blue/White Left Front Speaker Negative Wire (-): Orange/Light Green Right Front Speaker Positive Wire (+): Dark Green Right Front Speaker Negative Wire (-): White/Light Green Car Audio Rear Speakers Size: N/A Car Audio Rear Speakers Location: N/A Left Rear Speaker Positive Wire (+): Tan/Yellow Left Rear Speaker Negative Wire (-): Gray/Light Blue Right Rear Speaker Positive Wire (+): Brown/Pink Right Rear Speaker Negative Wire (-): Orange/Red
The first thing is to meter all the speakers with a volt/ohm meter. They should read somewhere between 2-6 ohms. If they meter good try swapping the RCA's and see if there is any difference. But if both of those check out ok than. Unfortunately it would appear that your amp has a bad output channel. What seems to happen is that when the amp is cycled off and on, off and on etc. the solder on the PCB can get brittle causing problems. The only answer i can offer is to send it to JL to repair or find a good repair shop that works on car audio amps. It's getting harder to find a good tech but they are out there. If you send it to JL they have a set repair rate of $180.00 which covers the return postage while the customer pays the shipping cost getting it there. They do an excellent job and pretty much go thru the whole board and replace not only what is wrong but will also perform any mods or changes since date of manufacture.
yes, you have a few options. Chances are, its your amp.
1st I would test the speakers - find the amp under the back seat, then test which wires go to the front speakers and use a AA battery to check if the speaker pops with those two wires and the battery.
If it does pop, its your amp needing replaced. You can switch out that infinity amp for an aftermarket one very easy. Just use a testlight, or voltmeter to test the wires, and switch them to a new 4-channel amp.
if you need the wiring diagram, let me know...and dont forget to rate me! or ask for more help!
The most basic thing to check is the front/rear fader control on the stereo. If its electronic, you gotta find the function on the control pannel. Make sure its set to the middle range between front and rear.
If thats all good, you will have to slide out the stereo and test the outputs from the unit. If there working, the problem is in the wiring or speakers.
If your system has an external amp, you will have to look at that as a possible problem as well. You gotta find the wires and test the outputs.
The easiest thing to test is to try swapping the connections of the front component speakers at the amp connections. If the problem follows the speakers, the issue is probably with the speakers. I would triple check (again) the speaker wire connections. It's also possible the crossover for the driver side component speakers has an issue (thus why the tweeter worked for a while).
If the problem stays on the drivers side, the issue is probably with that channel on the amp. Triple check the RCA connections for that channel.
It's much easier to test other speakers on an amp channel versus trying to check it with a meter.
If the driver's door is "abused" often, my initial thought is the wiring at the speaker or the wiring in the speaker (to voice coil, within the crossover, etc) is the most likely culprit.
So, as I see it, your system is hooked up like so:
Ch1 = Left speakers, front and back
Ch2 = Right speakers, front and back
Ch3 = One sub
Ch4 = Other sub
One thing you can try is swapping channels. Swap Ch1 with Ch3 and Ch2 with Ch4. Then see if the issue still occurs on the door speakers or do the subs suddenly cut out at loud volume. If the subs start cutting out, that means the issue is with Ch1 and Ch2. If you haven't already, check the RCA connections to Ch1 and Ch2 as well as the gain for all channels. If the gain isn't already set to about 50%, put it there.