Question about Kenmore 62602 Electric Dryer
Make sure the unit is not plugged in when testing these fuses.You should also check the continuity on the heating element if all fuses check out as good.You may also need to check the main power at the terminal block and make sure you have 220 volts to the terminal block.These are all located on the rear of the dryer remove the back panel to get to them.
This is the most common locations for thermal fuses and heating element on Whirlpool,Kenmore,Estate dryers. Check these fuses for continuity and replace the one that does not have continuity
Posted on Mar 19, 2011
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
PSUinNC The first thing you have to do is to check in what position is the temperature switch . If the temperature switch is in the "air fluff" position, then the heater will stay "off". If this is not an issue, reset the circuit breaker. The motor needs only 120V to run, but the heater needs 240V and if one of legs is missing, the dryer would not heat. If it did not solve the problem, you have to perform full diagnosis. You will need some simple hand tools and a meter to check a continuity. If you are fillng you can handle it, let me know and I'll give you the step by step instructions. Gendos...post back
Posted on Feb 26, 2007
i am sending you all the possibilities for your problem, check either of these causes ----and than let me know if it is solved----
Power from the house
Check to see whether there's power getting to the dryer. Is it plugged in? Check for blown fuses or tripped circuit breakers--your dryer uses two fuses or circuit breakers. The dryer could tumble but not heat if only one of the two fuses is blown. If you have circuit breakers, one of the two circuit breakers can trip, even if the two for the dryer are connected.
Often a dryer heating element burns out, but doesn't trip the circuit breaker or blow a fuse. The heating element is simply a long coil of special wire. You can check it for continuity with an ohm meter. No continuity means the element is bad and you need to replace it--electric heating elements aren't repairable.
On many dryers, there's a thermal fuse mounted to the exhaust duct inside the back cover panel. The fuse--which is about an inch long--is usually embedded in black resin and mounted in a white plastic housing. If the fuse has blown, you need to replace it. (You can't re-set it.)
A common problem is for the main wiring connection from the house, at the dryer, to burn and break its connection. Because the dryer can still tumble with partial power, the connection may be only partially defective. You may need to replace both the power cord to the dryer and the terminal block inside the dryer that the wire is attached to.
Posted on Dec 12, 2008
SOURCE: Dryer not tumbling
A broken belt is very common. If you hear the motor running, that's probably it. The dryer must be taken all apart to replace the belt. Hopefully instructions will come with the new belt. Routing the belt over the motor shaft and around the tensioner is always a challenge.
Posted on Apr 22, 2009
SOURCE: dryer heats but won't tumble
Assuming, the timer is ok and that you can hear the the dryer motor running, it sounds like a broken belt. These kind of failures generally occur suddenly - one day it works, the next day it doesn't.
Posted on May 03, 2009
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