Question about Washing Machines
Hi i have a BUSH A126Q model W/M .Spin and Drain dosnt work. I clean the FILTER but same problem. Error code is Err 03. The start light & program ready light is blinking when M/C go to spin / Drain.
Its looks pump dont work //////
Please advise me what to do ???????????
Posted on Sep 29, 2013
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
The most common cause of machines stopping mid cycle is not draining. Your machine should have a filter behind the kick plate at the bottom.
If this is not the case please post back for further assistance.
Posted on Jan 22, 2009
Good AM. I see here that you have a fairly old belt drive Kenmore washer. The real problem with these is that the parts for them are so very expensive anymore to get. A timer (which you may be needing) will run you around $100.00 to $175.00 depending on where you live. Very expensive repairs on these, but if you want to go for it, here are some hints to help. Sounds like you have one of three problems. First off PLEASE UNPLUG YOUR MACHINE BEFORE WORKING ON IT. Your timer may have lost or has a stuck contact inside (unrepairable in most cases) which is making it do something is shouldnt be doing in that area of the timer. This would probably be the most expensive of your repair. The next thing is it could be the water level switch could be going bad. This one is highly doubtful since it fills and stops filling, but I have heard (but never have seen) that they can short out sometimes and cause wacky operation. Both these issues can be fixed by remove the console rear panel and front knobs to remove both. The next item could be a defective wig-wag in the bottom of the unit. One of the positioning solinoids maybe going bad and sending bad signals back to the timer.
None of these problems are really hard to fix. And truthfully (even though some of these guys will be mad) you can sometimes find these parts on ebay for a halfway good price. Part numbers for each are:
Water Level Switch: 359712
Good luck with this one, and if you know how to use one, try to run resistance with an ohm-meter on your wig-wag to be sure your getting power flow through the soilnoids (you will have 2, be sure to unplug the solinoids before testing to be sure its a true test) before replacing.
Posted on Dec 06, 2007
Sounds like you have a bad lid switch, or the plastic plunger on the lid that engages the lid switch is broke. if the plunger is broke, it is cheap, and only 2 screws to remove and put new one on. if that is not broke, check the lid switch. This model is a lid switch, and lid lock in one. You can test it before replacing it if you have a meter. you need to hinge the lid up to check and replace the lid switch. use a putty knife, on each side between the top and top of the front panel. slide the putty knife in one side, it will hit a bracket if your in the right spot. press in, and lift on that side of the top. do the same on other side, just don't let go of the first side or it will latch again. then swing the top back, the back side is on hinges. the lid switch is on the right side attached to the top. unplug washer, remove the 2 wires on the switch and check continuity. there should be continuity, or "open" when the lid is closed, and no continuity, or "closed" when you open the lid. if it is "closed" even when lid is closed, replace the lid switch. let me know if you have any further questions, shane.
Posted on Sep 12, 2009
the washer needs to have the lid closed to go into spin cycle the lid switch is broken just replace it and that will fix it
Posted on Apr 03, 2010
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