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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: oil blows out of tube
You either have a head gasket going bad or your piston rings are shot which causes air to go down into the crankcase building up pressure which exits through the breather tube.
Posted on Feb 01, 2009
>>From your Description it Sounds like the Valves Require Adjusting.
>>The Following is a Basic File I made for Setting the Valve Clearances. Any Input is Appreciated.
>>**I Do Not Use the Setting Called for by the OEMs. I have Found that the Following Works Best.
>>Remove the Valve Cover (on the Dead Cylinder for Twin Cylinder Engines).
>>Check the Push Tubes and make Sure they are Not Bent.
>>Set the Cylinder you are Setting the Valves on to Top Dead Center on the Compression Stroke When Setting the Valve Clearance. Now Loosen the Valve Adjuster Lock and Using a Blade Style Feeler Gauge, Set the Intake Valve Clearance to .004in -.006in and the Exhaust to .006in - .008in. Loosen and Tighten the Rocker Arm and the Feeler Gauge is Placed Between the Rocker Arm and the Valve Top where the Rocker Arm Pushes on the Valve.
>>***BE SURE TO TIGHTEN THE ADJUSTER LOCK AFTER YOU HAVE THE PROPER VALVE CLEARANCE***
>>I have had Better Performance Out of the Mowers and Less Burnt Valves Using these Settings. Be Sure the Piston is at TDC on the Compression Stroke.**
>>If you Remove the Valve Cover and then Turn the Engine by Hand, you can Watch the Intake Valve Movement. When the Intake Valve Closes, the Piston will Just Starting the Compression/Power Stroke.
>>On Some Engines you can Us a Straightened Coat Hanger and Feel the Piston.
>>Be Careful and Don't Jam the Wire in the Cylinder. Usually the Piston will Push the Wire Out of the Spark Plug Hole with No Problems.
Posted on Apr 21, 2009
I had the same problem! I found that the needle valve in the carb was not shutting off the fuel flow when not running. Either replace needle valve or put a shut off valve in the fule line. Should take care of the problem
Posted on Apr 28, 2009
The clutch arm where the cable connects is on the left and it connects to the clutch via a shaft that pushes a rod which then pushes a ball bearing sitting in the holder and then the holder pushes the clutch operating plate to dis-engage the clutch. The only seal is on the clutch arm shaft that goes into the casing. At worst, only the springs on the operating plate would need to be removed then a 1/4" inward push on the rod from the right side would give clearance for the shaft to be inserted.
Go to the site below where you can see a parts diagram for your specific bike. You will select the actual brand, year, model, etc., once you go to the site. Part numbers and prices are also shown. You can order parts from this site. In the event no price is shown on a particular part, the part is not in stock. www.babbittsonline.com/pages/parts/viewbybrandand/parts.aspx
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Posted on Jun 11, 2009
I am going to see a mechanic - my trusted mechanic who does not nickel and dime me - to see what this is. I have the same problem and he told me he has never done this job on a Camry and is unsure. Given the miles, he has suggested that maybe it is time to part ways with the car. I am going to ask him if he will put some florescent dye in it and let me drive it for 50-100 mi and then check to see where the leak is and fix it. Let you know what happens. I have to try, the car is solid.
Posted on Aug 15, 2009
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