Question about Washing Machines
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
You problem may a simple leveling issue. Check your machine front to back and side to side to ensure it properly level. Also, most top-loaders have "self-leveling" feet on the rear legs. If you walk up to your washer and it looks like the back is sitting lower than the front, you may only have to follow a few simple steps to re-level it. If your machine is equipped with this type of leveling system all you have to do is to lift the rear legs of the floor about two-inches by rocking the machine (empty of water, of course) towards you: 1. Lift the lid. 2. Place one hand under the rim of the front casing (not the wash tub). 3. Place your foot at the center of the front base to keep it from sliding. 4. Pull towards you to lift the back feet off the floor. 5. You should hear clicking noises as the feet re-level. 6. Slowly lower machine back to the floor. This should take care of most leveling problems that cause your machine to vibrate and shake during the spin cycle. These legs periodically become unlevel due to vibration and need to checked from time to time. I hope this may help you.
Posted on Apr 15, 2007
The reason it's out of balance is because the skate plate shoes are worn out and need to be replaced. You'll have to access the washer in order to do this. There's a video available that shows how to do it.
After you have opened up the washer you'll see that the tub is sitting on a three legged pedestal. The shoes are in between the skate plate and the top of the pedestal. Here's a picture (and part number) to illustrate...
Do one shoe at a time by lifting the skate plate off of the pedestal about an inch or so and wedging it there (I use a hammer handle as a wedge). The shoes simply snap into place, so the old ones will have to be snapped out of place first. Use another hammer and tap the shoes out of their sockets from underneath.
NOTE! ---> When you place the new shoe into its' place DO NOT try to snap it in!!! (if you do, you'll break it) Just let it rest in it's place for now. Remove your wedge and allow the full weight of the tub to sit on it. Then move on to the next shoe and repeat.
After all 3 shoes have been replaced it's time to snap them in completely. Do this from the top of the tub. Using your body weight, press down on the tub from above on all three corners (where the shoes are located). This will apply even pressure to the top of the shoe and keep it from breaking. You should have all 3 snapped in now. Use a flashlight and look underneath to verify (you should see the tabs of the shoes poking all the way through the pedestal).
Now all that's left is to rebuild the washer cabinet and start some laundry!
p.s. I know it sounds like a lot of work, but this job can be done easily within an hour and the parts only cost ~$12.00!
Posted on Apr 01, 2009
SOURCE: spin speed too slow
When the clothes are wet at the end of a cycle, check these:
To test the motor coupler, re-start the washer in its spin cycle. Let the machine run for a minute, and then open the lid and notice whether the tub is spinning:
If it's spinning when you lift the lid, the coupler is fine.
If it isn't spinning--and your machine was produced by Whirlpool®--you may have a broken coupler. Many Whirlpool-made washers use a small, relatively inexpensive device called a motor coupling. This plastic-and-rubber component is mounted to the shaft of the motor on one side, and to the transmission on the other. Over time, the coupler wears out and fails. When that happens, you need to replace it completely.
If the washer doesn't reach its proper spin speed, the clothes may be too wet at the end of a cycle. Check to be sure the load is properly balanced and run a spin cycle again. If the clothes are still wet, you may have a worn or loose belt (Maytag®), a worn clutch (GE®/Hotpoint®), or a worn motor pulley or tub bearing. Replace the applicable component.
Alternatively, there could be clothes caught between the inner and outer tubs. Read the "It spins but won't pump" section of the "It won't drain" section. Also, there could be other things that cause friction on the drive train. Seek the assistance of a qualified appliance repair technician.
If the water that pumps from the machine goes right back into the machine after the spin cycle, it may be because your washer is siphoning the water from a laundry tub with a slow drain, back into the washer. Try to improve the draining of the laundry tub. (Is there something stuck in the drain?) Also, be sure the drain hose doesn't reach more than about 4 inches into the laundry tub. If it does, cut off the excess.
Water-inlet valves eventually fail. One problem that may develop with a water-inlet valve is that it can no longer completely shut off when the electricity is turned off to it. Then, the valve may leak and drip water into the clothes tub--you may notice that your washer has water in it when you haven't used it for a few days. To fix this, replace the valve.
Posted on May 03, 2009
SOURCE: spin speed too slow
CHECK THE PUMP. I had the same problem and after removing the pump (fairly easy) found a clump of stuffing from a hole in a quilt jammed in the impellor. After removing and installing the then cleaned out pump it worked perfectly. Suggest using a regular stainless steel hose clamp in place of the factory clamp that is hard to put into position on the hose to the pump. Be sure to put the clear plastic bag back in place over the pump assembly to protect the pump from water damage.
Or the stater motor on the back has lost a phase because one of the windings has shorted. If the cycle sounds normal and it doesn't sound like it's struggling then the problem is probably not going to be related to the motor. I've found most of these cases to be related to the control board itself.
Posted on May 05, 2009
What you should try if I understand your question correctly is to evenly place the clothing through out the machine on all sides. Hope that helps, John
Posted on Jun 08, 2009
Tips for a great answer:
Jan 11, 2016 | Maytag Neptune MAH5500B Front Load Washer
Aug 20, 2011 | Maytag Neptune FAV6800AW Top Load Washer
Google ""Maytag Neptune load unbalance""
Read thru the post. I feel you have a Clutch malfunction even though you may not be see DC ot UC unbalance errors to the Console.
I'm seeing that around the 5 to 6 yr mark it's time for a Tub Seal replacement and possible Outer Tub and Spinner Support bearings should be replaced on the FAV6800A and FAV9800A machines. It's not too bad for most DIY owners.
Feb 18, 2011 | Maytag Neptune FAV6800AW Top Load Washer
May 10, 2010 | Maytag Neptune FAV6800AW Top Load Washer
May 03, 2010 | Maytag Neptune FAV6800AW Top Load Washer
Apr 25, 2010 | Maytag Neptune FAV6800AW Top Load Washer
Feb 07, 2010 | Maytag Neptune FAV6800AW Top Load Washer
Sep 14, 2009 | Maytag Neptune FAV6800AW Top Load Washer
Sep 19, 2008 | Maytag Neptune MAH7500WH Front Load Washer
Nov 01, 2007 | Maytag Neptune MAH5500B Front Load Washer
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