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RE cutting deck Bearings on cutting shaft disintegrated Damaged sleeve/housing and need to remove Every thing is rusted etc cant drop casting away bolts break There is a large collar nut that locks in bearing shaft Have attempted to chisel loose with out success It must have a special spanner which I don`t have I need some directions or drawings to understand Peter

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Try to loosen it with a air chissel or heat the collar and try the air chissel to spin it loose.

Posted on Mar 18, 2011


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Left side is scalping especially when turning

Stephen Bent/damage blade or spindle, check your deck for support link pin missing, damaged or rusted out brackets, blade spindle loose/mount damages or rusted out, missing deck support spring,wheel/roller if equipped, damaged blades, Recheck tire pressure and front steering axles for bent/damage, etc.
When measuring deck for level, measure at blade tips not the deck on a flat level surface. Check the attached links,instruction and guides, Good luck
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1 Answer

How do I fix a loose blade.

By loose blade I assume you mean that it can be moved up and down at the tip of the blade. It is most unlikely that the central nut has come loose, but check anyway. If this nut is tight and the shaft is loose in the bearing this means the bearing has worn out. Remove the deck from the machine. Photograph the run of the belt as this has to be removed. Also the direction of the grease nipple. Remove pulley from loose spindle. Turn deck on its edge or mount on two saw horses or similar so you can get to top and bottom of spindle bolts. Remove cutting blade. Remove spindle housing and clean area so no rubbish gets caught when reassembling. Otherwise spindle may be set different and mower will leave a line of differing cut. Take spindle to vise and remove any retaining nuts or circlips from shaft and clean as clean as new. Apply light oil or CRC etc to help move bearing along shaft. Open vise wider that outside of bearing, usually 44 to 50mm [1 3/4" to 2"] and refit nut on thread. Check nut is always spaced free of top bearing. With cushion of hardwood or nylon tap the shaft to move it down with lower bearing coming out of spindle housing. To remove top bearing from housing, turn housing up other way and use a wooden shaft such as a broom handle to tap bearing free of housing. Clean out grease and replace when reassembling. Do not reuse other bearing. They are cheap and likely to fail shortly anyway. These bearings usually have no seals on inside.

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1 Answer

Replacing bearinon spindle housing

Remove deck and place on two boxes or saw horses so that you can access both top and bottom of bolts holding spindle housing. Remove drive pulley from spindle. Remove cutting blade. Remove four bolts holding spindle housing to deck frame, noting which way grease nipple is pointing. Take spindle housing off and scrub deck frame clean of rust etc and also clean housing with wire brush. To remove bearings, look for retainers such as nuts or circlips. Remove these and ensure that the shaft is clean so bearing can be slid off. Apply CRC or light oil to assist bearing removal. Use a vise and set jaws wide enough that the bearing outside can fit between. This is usually 45 to 50mm. [1 3/4" to 2"] Place a hard wood block [or something that will not bruise the thread such as solid nylon] and screw nut well on to thread but make sure there is space for movement between nut and bearing. Firmly tap spindle end. Shaft should go down into top bearing and bottom bearing should start to emerge between vice jaws. Make sure that there is always space between nut and bearing before knocking end of shaft again. To knock top bearing out, place it on bottom over vise jaws and take a length of wood such as a section of broom handle and knock it out. Normally there should be no seals on the inside of these spindle bearings as they are greased from a grease gun thru the grease nipple.

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1 Answer

How do I replace the bearings on the mower deck spindle housing on my toro mx 5060

To replace spindle bearings: Remove deck and either rest on two saw horses or similar mounts, or stand on its side and fix to make safe and secure. Photograph the belt layout and also the grease nipple so you can easily refit.The object is to access the top and bottom of the spindle. Remove cutting blade. Remove pulley on top side. I reccomend that you also remove the spindle housing from the deck. You can remove bearings while still fitted but it is not so easy. Clean the shaft and remove any circlips or retaining nuts from spindle. Take the unit and clean shaft as clean as new. Use emery paper if necessary. Use light oil or CRC to lube the shaft to slide bearings off. Do not hold shaft in vise as this will cause deformation of the shaft surface and jam the bearing. Place lower side of housing on vise which should be open slightly more than bearing outer diameter. Take hardwood or industrial nylon [to protect the thread from bruising,] after refitting nut on shaft thread, and ensuring there is space between nut and bearing, tap down firmly with hammer. The shaft will move more easily after the initial freeing up. When it moves easily remove nut and tap down with wood between hammer and thread end. To remove the top bearing use a wooden shaft, a broom handle is ideal. The replacement bearings should have no seals on the inside. Remove if necessary. Make sure to scrub clean both housing end and deck where the housing fits. Any rubbish there will cause lines in the mowing as it can tilt the blades. The thickness of paper can mean 3mm at the end of the blades!

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2 Answers

Fan sweaks, is it a bearing?

Vornado makes several fan models. Whether yours has ball bearings, sleeve bearings or another type is unknown. Most manufacturers of consumer grade fans use "permanently lubricated bearings" and require no additional lubrication by the owner "for the life of the fan".

If yours does accept lubrication, you should find a "filler neck" at the front and rear of the motor housing - directly over the motor's shaft (that the fan blade is attached to). A few drops of a light bodied machine oil in each should quiet the squeaking sounds (if coming from the bearing). If there is no such filler neck on the fan, you could unplug the fan and rest it on its back - fan aimed straight up. Squirt a couple drops of oil on the shaft - close to the motor. Because the fan is pointed straight up, gravity will draw the oil down the shaft into the bearing. You may not be able to access the shaft at the rear of the motor without some dis-assembly however. You should not attempt dis-assembly if you're not sure how to go about it. After the oil has run into the bearing, you should spread out newspaper or rags under the fan(or better yet - brought outside - before powering it on, as some oil may be cast off the shaft if it spins fast enough or if there was an excessive amount of oil applied to the shaft.

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1 Answer

My 42 inch Toro seems to be cutting unevenly. The blades seem to be on correctly and I hope I haven't hit something to set the angle wrong

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Are your blades upside down? Mower deck level?Proper air pressure all 4 tires?Correct blades for the diameter of cut? Deck bent? Deck hangers bent?

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1 Answer

I need to replace the entire blade and blade shaft but I cannot get the blade shaft and belt wheel off. Is there a trick to getting it off?

YEP BIG IMPACT Its best some times on AYP which is the MFGR of Craftsman to replace the whole thing. Casting, shaft and bearings. Drop the deck.put a peice of 2x4 or 4x4 between the housing and the blade,then take the pulley nut off with a 1/2 impact or a breaker bar and a 4 ft piece of pipe for a Cheater bar. This may take 2 people to do depending on your tools. All new housing and shaft and bearing is about $60 u may find em cheaper on Ebay.

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1 Answer

Riding lawnmower blade

First, always wear safety glasses and hand protection when working on machinery. Also include my favorite saying; "Common Sense Prevails". No amount of overgrown lawn is worth getting hurt. Work on as flat a surface as possible, always chock the tires in both directions to prevent movement and disconnect the negative battery cable making sure it will not contact either battery posts while working on the mower. This will insure the engine will not start on it's own or the mower move of it's own accord. Release the parking brake, with the shifter in "neutral" position. Check your tire chocks and make sure the mower is not going to roll in either direction. Now, lower the deck to it's lowest position. Now loosen any guide pins that extend from the underside of the main chassis that keep the belt from coming off the drive pulley on the engine. Again, there may be one or more. Remove the belt from the pulley. Now find the linkage that tightens the belt when you engage the blades. 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There may be rocks, pebbles or other items that can become flying missiles and injure you, or someone close by.Flip the deck over, again being careful not to trap your (or your volunteer's) hand between any moving parts and the deck (like between the sharp side of a blade and the deck housing) and place on your blocks in the same position. You can now access both the nuts holding the blades and the top side  of the pulleys that either have nuts as well, or are made to accept a wrench or socket. Using a block of wood, ("2 x 4" x 12" is a good size but adjust the size to fit your particular deck) insert the block between the deck and one blade on the side of the blade that will stop it when loosening the nut holding the blade, making sure to get a good "bite" so it will not slip when pressure is applied. You can also use a wrench or socket on the pulley retaining nut on the top of the deck to stop the blade from moving as they both employ the same shaft. A volunteer to hold this is a good idea, perhaps a must. Make sure to equip them with safety gear as well. Apply a good lubricant like PB Blaster to the retaining nuts on the blades. Allow at least 15 minutes to absorb. Using either a 3/8" air gun or ratchet, or if using hand tools, a 1/2" breaker bar with the proper size socket of an impact grade, loosen the nut holding the blade. Your volunteer can help by hold the deck as you apply pressure to the bar. An extension of the breaker bar's handle with a piece of steel pipe having an inside diameter not much bigger than your breaker bar, and no more than a couple feet in length can be applied for more leverage, however this should only be done by someone with experience using the technique. Better to use air tools or a proper extension than bust up your hand by a slipping ad hock device. Remove the nut and washers, keeping them in the proper order for re-installation, and remove the blades noting which side is up and down. The cutting edge of the blade is always the lowest part of the blade when attached. Clean the underside of the deck. You may have to include a scraping tool as grass buildup can become quite hard over time and appear to be part of the deck. Pay special attention to moldy, wet grass around the blade shaft. This kind of moisture can induce corrosion prematurely to the deck housing and the bearings\shaft housing. Look closely for any type of wire, line from weed eaters, cables or any line that can be picked up by the mower and can wrap around the blade shaft between the blade and the deck. This line can eventually work it's way into the bearings, causing the bearings to fail.  Carefully inspect the shaft, bearing and it's housing for damage, corrosion, etc. Repair\replace as needed. Remove any surface rust with a wire brush (hand or power) again watching for flying debris. Inspect the blades, looking for obvious impacts that have caused visible damage to the blades. If found, remove the blade shafts and check to be sure they haven't been bent. If they have, don't try to straiten them, but replace them. A bent shaft will have caused undue wear on the bearings, and a straitened shaft will be weak where the bend was. A failure of the shaft, bearings, or bearing housings can be fatal if the blade becomes detached and manages to fly out from under the mower while in use and strikes someone nearby. Now sharpen the blades, or replace them if needed. An experience blade sharpening service should be employed as the angle of the cutting edge and the level plane on which they travel is critical. Simply using a grinding wheel will not give you anything but a sharp piece of steel, but will cut unevenly. Clean any buildup from the blades and the shaft's mounting platform for the blades as rust or any foreign substance will cause the blades to be at an improper angle. While the deck is removed, inspect the holes where the raising\engaging linkages attach looking for wear to the hole or the linkage shaft. Replace if any undo wear is detected. Check for side to side movement of the pulley\blade shafts indicating a worn shaft or bearing. Replace if needed. Check the bearing housing the shaft travels through on the deck for electrolysis corrosion cause by dissimilar metals in a moist environment), cracks or other damage. Replace as needed. Inspect the deck belt for wear, cracking or age and replace if needed. It's always a good idea to replace it regardless when performing this deck//blade service. Reassemble in the reverse order of dis-assembly, using Loctite red on all threaded surfaces, and greasing any available grease fittings. Apply a coating of graphite lube or grease to the linkages where the attach to the deck an mower. Make sure all fasteners are tighten to proper specs. Lift the deck to it's highest setting, engage the parking brake, and reattach the battery. Start the mower and engage the blades checking for any undo noise indicating loose parts. Check the deck movement by lowering to different settings always listening and feeling for vibrations or noises. Should everything be in order, you may consider leveling the deck for optimum cutting performance. But that's a different question........ Best of luck, and please indicate your rating of this solution if appropriate. Thanks so much, Papa

Oct 18, 2008 | Garden

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