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I have Amana SRD522VW fridge freezer (side by side doors). The fridge freezer has stopped working even at max settings. There is a lot of ice on the bottom back inner panel of the freezer surrounding the vent area (inide the frezer). A repairman came and defrosted that and then fitted some part which made it work for about a day or so and then it was faulty again. Once again there was all that ice again on the freezer vent at the bottom. The repairman came again and changed the same part (having defrosted the bottom vent area) which made it work for a day om so and then it was faulty again. My Amana is only 7 years old and is in very good condition and when the repairman had it working for a day or so then it was cooling and freezing perfectly but something is causing it to stop. Can you please help ? Tanveer

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SOURCE: fridge not cool, freezer fridge temp

The most likely fault is a problem with the defrost cycle. The most likely is the defrost heater which should be a solid bar which is located directly underneath the coil. If you are capable then you can generally unplug the connectors for the heater and check that you have a resistance across the ends if the heater is faulty it will be open circuit. If it is not open circuit then it could be the defrost sensor or defrost timer at fault. You can also generally tell if the heater is warped or cracked. Hope this is of some help.

Posted on Sep 06, 2007

  • 1314 Answers

SOURCE: Frigidare side by side FRS202RG freezer cold, fridge side warm (coils frozen)

your having a defrost promblem either the adc-auto defrost control board is bad or the defrost termination thermostat is bad or the heater is bad thats rare but does happen if you will open the refridgerator door and get me the model number off the serial plate on the toop of the compartment just look up when you open the door then let me see if it has an adc or timer i can reply and be more spefic about fixing your promblem hold my rating till we are done ok

Posted on Mar 30, 2008

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SOURCE: Frigadaire freezer cold but fridge compartment is warm

i need the complete model number to narrow it down they still make the frs20zrg to this day the last two numbers like frs20zrgwo or frs20zrgw9 is what will tell me what kind of defrost system it has the serial plate is in the fridge side up by the light bulb or on the left hand side or right hand side of the fridge compartment up near the top sorry to be a bother but its necessary

Posted on Mar 30, 2008

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SOURCE: FRIGIDAIRE FRS20ZRGD7 (SIDE BY SIDE) WARM FRIDGE/ COLD FREEZER HELP!

look open the freezer door pull the lower kick plate off look for a small little hole there its a mechanical timer model should be close to the wheel in that hole will be a plastic piece open the freezer door you will hear the fan running in the freezer take out the four or five screws on the lower panel where you keep seeing the frost and remove it you will see a silver honeycomb looking piece that's the evaporator on one of the tubes will be clipped a silver dome looking piece with two wires on it that's the defrost thermostat now turn the timer with a screwdriver that's the piece in the little hole slowly to your right till you hear a click and the fan stops in the freezer now as your turning it it will make a ratchet sound you want the click and the fan to stop look at your watch and note the time then wait about 5 minutes and look at the heater to see if its on if its all frosted up the frosted should look all watery if the heater is on then just let it run if not then reach up and turn the freezer control to the off position then un plug the two wires on the defrost thermostat and take the two wires that you unplugged the thermostat from and plug them back together and turn the freezer control back on and wait stay there and watch the heater come on let it defrost the evaporator if the heater comes on when you do that .that means the thermostat is bad if the heater comes on without you having to by pass it that means the timer is bad if you do all that and the heater does not come on then the heater element is bad now its going to get red like an oven and pop and sizzle but don't let it freak you out now if you had to by pass the thermostat and the timer cuts the compressor on before the frost is all clear just turn the timer around again till the fan cuts off and the heater will come back on if you by passed the thermostat then when all the frost is melted then reach up and turn the freezer control back off and reconnect the thermostat.Now after about 30 mins after turning it off the timer should cut back on if its not bad when you change the timer back out the two screws reach under the fridge and turn the timer and its shield till the screws are in the removal position when the timer is loose remove the shield and unplug the timer plug your new one back in then put the shield back on and back where it goes now id recommend changing both the timer and the thermostat as they fail pretty close together the stuff i described above is to make the unit defrost to save your food with out having to use your hair dryer also when all the frost is melted at he bottom of the evaporator on the right hand side is a hole in the cabinet that has to be clear of frost for the fridge to cool properly now any time during this defrost technique if you have a problem turning off the freezer cold control will turn off the defrost system1.gif too if i can be of help or you need to know something just reply to this post

Posted on Mar 30, 2008

mgprice
  • 744 Answers

SOURCE: fridge/freezer cooling inefficiently

Either the repair guy did not wire up the heater correctly or he replaced the wrong part, if the heater was good it was likley to be the defrost thermostat...I would call the repair guy back to check.

Posted on Jun 23, 2009

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Mullion heater connection for Amana 84" Integrated bottom mount refer model B136CAR3 mfg P1318402W. I need to hook up the mullion heater that is under the freezer, component P/N 12401301. But I cannot find the mullion heater connection point. According to the specs it's installed in the foam and not wired from the factory and is for service purposes. The reason for this is that the water from the defrost cycle re-freezes and clogs the drain hole. Eventually the ice gets almost an inch thick and it's SOLID. The freezer drawer cannot open, so I have to thaw it all out and pry it open. I've done this dozens of times over the years! The service tech never figured it out. But with help of my boat-refer-expert brother we found the solution at the high level. Devil is in the details. According to the instructions: make a slit and peel back the white vinyl harness sleeve that goes to the water valve, pull out two wires (black and white) that aren't connected to anything (yet). Then "locate the mullion heater leads at the left side of the cabinet and connect to the back and white leads". Then Wrap vinyl sleeve with electrical tape to seal the slit. OOOOOKAY.... I found the unconnected leads in the harness that goes to the ice maker water valve. They have male bullet style plugs and clips (a little corroded) but I cannot find anywhere to connect them... Is left side of the cabinet as viewed from the front or back? The main harness is on the left rear area. And if I make the slit long enough (which is very difficult, then the wires could make it back there. If I only could find where the mullion heater's connectors come out. Of course the wiring diagram only shows the mullion wiring as optional and not connected to anything. I really do not want to lay this 500lb (at least) beast on it's side. It already fell on me and my daughter, but a countertop and pallets save us. This refer has been nothing but a pain to deal with ever since I bought in 2001. I don't want to get rid of it, since it has custom wood panels that go with our kitchen, and I fell on hard times (due to illness) and cannot afford a new one. It fixed many things on it already. Such as the problem where the relays weren't soldered properly onto the main logic board, which fixed the non-defrosting problem and the freezer fan not working. But now the drain hole plugs with ice. So I read that many freezers have a 5W to 20W heater that runs all the time to keep the hole from freezing. Especially if water gets in the insulation under the floor of the freezer. Anyway, can anyone tell me how to find the connections to the mullion heater? Is it in the outside-rear channel up back of the refer? it's pop-riveted on. Thanks! Scott

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