I have a Jandy Laars Lite model LG250p ser. #H05PK1917. The dealer has replaced the Pilot generator twice. In live in USVI. Was told salt air ruines the generators. I live in middle of Island (not next to the sea). Pilot stays lit. Furnice will not fire. Is there a conversion to change pilot to 110v, a battery, or what can I do ? Was told generator s don't generate
Are you saying there is a 2 fill tank system of some kind that takes the place of the pilot generator. Spa heater is in goo condition other than that. Thanks. I just got your solution todayAre you saying there is a 2 fill tank system of some kind that takes the place of the pilot generator. Spa heater is in goo condition other than that. Thanks. I just got your solution today
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It sounds like you need to replace the pilot generator. This is the metal cylinder that sets in the flame of the pilot and supplies voltage to the system. When it gets weak, it will support the pilot valve to remain open, but when the main valve tries to open the pilot generator cannot provide enough electricity, and everything shuts down. It's a prime suspect in your situation.
More than likely the tempature control is defective, since you effectively bypassed that connection. I found a manual for your unit which shows different types of ignition. I'm not even sure if the millivolt system is covered in this manual. Here's the sight http://shop.solardirect.com/pdf/pool-heaters/gas-pool-heaters/jandy-lite2manual.pdf
I've had the problem twice. The company told me 500mv on the pilot generator was too low. 3 years ago I replaced the pilot generator and that seemed to fix it. This year same thing, 500mv on the pilot generator, I replaced again and this time didn't fix it and was still 500mv. After poking into everything, here's what I conclude: - 500mv on the pilot generator is fine, maybe even less. - you can check the valve and the amount of current the pilot generator provides by clipping a wire from the white to the black on the valve. If this forces the burner on your pilot gen is strong enough and the valve works. Be careful running it this way though, because it bypasses all the safety devices. - Then check the safety switches and wires. I used an ohmmeter and started working my way from the valve through the fusible link, pressure switch, etc. With that method I found high resistance in a wire from the fusible link when I jiggled the wire. I bypassed just the link, and it's working fine. I've also gone through several pressure switches over the years and a control module as well. - Everything fails in this heater. It's just a tough environment. the wires and connectors corrode. I live in the northeast, and now in the winter I take out the burner, control module, and thermostat/switch module and wrap a tarp over it. I guess next year I'll pull out the fusible link too, or maybe just solder the connections.
Are you saying there is a 2 fill tank system of some kind that takes the place of the pilot generator. Spa heater is in goo condition other than that. Thanks. I just got your solution today
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