Question about Pentair IntelliChlor System

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IC40 = red light /low salt salt level 3500 pool temp 80 unit about 1-1.5 years old what can be done

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: service light on

I just had the same problem resolved, my mastertemp 400 would run up the temp to 82F and then cutoff, the service light flashes and then 50 seconds later the heater would restart and run for 2 minnutesbefore shutting down again and relighting in 50 seconds. Repeating until the temp setting is reached.

I had the pool guy out 3 times until he found a bad thermal regulator valve (kit #77707-0010). Once replaced the heater runs great.

He told me that it's my pool chemestry that is to blame, I had it checked (like I do weekely by me and monthly by the pool supply store) and it perfect??? I'm now questioning what caused the corroson and stop it from coming back?

I hope tis helps.

Posted on Feb 06, 2009

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SOURCE: pool heater seems to fire,

It's not reading the flame. This could be many things. If you have an electronic ignition you will find a wire going down to the front of the firewall to just above where the burners go into it. It connects to a piece that has one screw holding it and that goes through the wall and into the burner box. If you pull the tray and inspect the burner just below it their may be soot or something keeping the flame from getting to this probe. If the wire from the probe is grounding any where of if it got rat chewed this can cause this problem. Follow this wire to the top of the heater and make sure it is securely fastened to the ignition control on the terminal that says sense. It could be these problems or the ignition control box may have gone bad (ooo! noo! $$$) At two years old I would think sooted burners or a bad wire. Also when you have the tray out you can remove the orfaces that feed the gas to the tray and check for spider webs. The orfaces unscrew with I believe a 3\8 wrench,(I could be wrong) Start with the one under the probe. These webs will look like tiny cotton balls and you can clean them by blowing out or with a tooth pic. I live in Phoenix and this is not a problem in the desert but in many places it is. So if you don't live in a desert this could be a good place to start also. Good luck

Posted on Oct 17, 2010

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Once a week I've been adding salt (80 lbs) to my pool and again get low salt code (91) has been very unusually hot (HTX 110) is this causing the problem and I need to add more?

1st... Check your salt level consentration.. If okay... 2nd, Check you electrolytic cell, may be plugged with white flaky calcium stuff. The white calcium build-up on the cells will cause a low salt alam.

Jul 21, 2011 | Intex Automatic Salt Water System for ...

1 Answer

I Have a Easy Set Pool 15X36, And a Salt Water Generator How much Salt do I add for the first Time?

The Compupool CPSC/CPA Series is recommended to run at a salt concentration of 3500 ppm. If you are not installing a Compupool unit, check your manufacturer's instructions for their recommended level of concentration . Use a salt that is at least 99.8% pure NaCl. The preferred salt is an evaporated, granulated, food quality, NON-iodized salt. Avoid using salt with anti-caking agents like sodium ferrocyanide, also known as yellow YPS (prussiate of soda. These cause some discoloration of fittings and pool surface finishes. DO NOT use calcium chloride.

Using a salt water test strip, measure the current salt level of your pool. For the Compupool generators, ideal is 3500 ppm. If the level is low, determine the number of gallons in your pool and add salt according to the Salt Table. For example, if your pool has 15,000 gals of water and your current salt level is 2500, you need to add 125 lbs of salt.

Jun 08, 2011 | Sport & Outdoor - Others

1 Answer

My intex salt system is working as it should by the codes. But Chlorine level is very low and won't come up. It is two years old could it just be DONE

If you find anything in my remarks that conflicts with the manufacturers instruction, rely on the manufacturers instruction, and seek guidance from a pool professional in your area.

To make chlorine, you need between 2800 and 3400 PPM salt in the water. Do you have between 2800 and 3400 PPM? How did you test? Do you run your filter 24-7? (you should for best results) Is your cell clean and otherwise in operating order? (clean with muratic acid solution recommended by your pool chemical supplier)

A few words about water balance: Before you replace the device, make sure you have removed all metal from the water (sequestering agent), that your alkalinity is correct (between 80 and 120), that the pH is between 7.2 and 7.6, and the salt is between 2800 and 3400. Not critical for a above ground pool, but check the calcium - in a plaster pool (where this is critical), the recommended level is around 300 ppm. If yours is there, great. If it is 1000 or more, you will have to dilute your water with water that is calcium free to bring the level down to a more comfortable level. (Calcium and Salt are both persistent (not consumable) they will not go away any other way). The only way to reduce these two chemicals is by dulution. The alkalinity should be around 100 as this is "sun block" for the pH. With incorrect alkalinity level, your pH will bounce all over the place. I recommend a Taylor Test kit ... not test strips ... to find the real levels in your pool. Taylor calls it the FSA-DPD kit for professionals, available many places, including advertisers. Expect to pay a little over $50.00 for this kit. Taylor also offers a salt test kit, though it is a little pricey @ about $40.00 in my area.

Of course, if your device is kaput, you can always add chlorine (liquid or dry) manually.

One more thing, since you are making chlorine instead using dry, you should check your Cyanuric acid level(also called stabiliser). A good level is 50 to 80 ppm. Cyanuric Acid is"sun block" for your chlorine. If your cyanuric acid level is low, the sun will eat your chlorine almost as fast as you can make it. Cyanuric acid is also persistent - see above for particulars.

I hope this comment helps resolve your trouble. Enjoy your pool.

BTW, I am a certified Pool Operator and I operate three pools of water in a private, recreational park in a popular resort destination on the East Coast.

May 30, 2011 | Intex Automatic Salt Water System for ...

1 Answer

We just replaced the T-cell for our pool. We were

Sound to me that you added wat to much salt.
If you are using a salt test kit that eads in colors throw it away and get a kit that reads in #.s
If you are using the one with #'s then proceed to getting your water to as close to 3000ppm as possible
Drain 20 % water ad fresh and check again keep doing this ti'll you get close to the 3000ppm

any lower than 2800 and you can read low salt and worse of all you will not produce enough chlorine any higher than 3500 and you will go cloudy and read high

It is my opinion that you were low salt and then adding to much salt put you to far to high

remeber anytime you add salt you should filter only for 12-24 hours to distribute the salt properly so the unit knows what it is reading

While adjusting your salt level clean your new cell with vinegar let it soak for a few hours You should have received a cap to cover one end of the cell while soaking
once cleaned it will not grab hold of the salt water until the generator is turned on

Just remeber 3000ppm

Jul 24, 2010 | Intex Automatic Salt Water System for ...

1 Answer

DuoClear 20 can't get salt light to go out unless

I have a Duoclear 25 for 3 years now. The unit has been nothing but trouble. I too have a low salt light even when the pool is tested at 4500ppm. 4500ppm for our taste is too high. The main board has been replaced for erroneous errors and now one year later the salt cell generator is non functional. The quality is poor. Furthermore most pool stores don't even know how the nature 2 works and alwasy recommend chemicals that are harmful. The company Clearwater has poor customer service.

Aug 25, 2009 | Zodiac Duo Clear System Chlorine...

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