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First, I'm not a Condura Tech. * Check your warranty. Call for service. * repairs should be performed by a CFR certified tech.
*** Following is for information only *** * Unit is short Cycling. Call your vendor.for service. * Cycling with very little cooling or Hot air from unit can be caused by faulty valve or clogged system. Call for service * Unit may need cleaning (after system check) * Customer review; https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cYjDbSMvGmY * Final, Check your warranty. Call for service. Aloha, ukeboy57
Air conditioner compressors require a greater amount of electricity (measured in both volts and amps, but the amps are what is causing the overload). You will need a larger generator to run your AC. You might be able to run a smaller AC unit, but always check the Amps required and compare that to the Amps the circuit breaker on the generator is rated for.
Make sure the compressor is actually turning. Most auto compressors run a magnetic clutch drive. When the air con is turned on, an electro magnet pulls the compressor clutch in so instead of the pulley just idling, it turns the compressor as well. You normally hear a loud click when the clutch pulls in. If you have a close look, there is normally 1 wire coming out from the drive end of the compressor which is the feed wire for the electro magnetic clutch. Check if this has been disconnected or broken.
The compressor will run stop start or load unload. There is a switch for this. Make sure the right mode is selected.stop start for light use. Load unload for heavy. This mode keeps the starting and stopping to keep from burning up the motor. That is rated by stops per hour. They shouldnt be more than 10 times per hour
My compressor has a 60uf 330volt capacitor. With a bolt on the bottom, however, I have seen the same model compressor with other cap values. I suggest to try capacitor plus or minus in that range and read amp draw. Select the cap with best combination of start and run amp draw (lowest). Good luck
Some of the things for you to check are for any leaks anywhere, the valve plate assembly, the piston and cylinder assembly and the con-rod. If you have any leaks that let air out as fast as the piston is trying to pump it in you won't get any compressed air. Check the drain valve on the bottom of the tank and the air line from the pump to the tank. If any of the reeds on the valve plate assembly are bent or broken they won't seal the way they need to in order to compress air. If the cylinder is badly scored or the piston rings are scored or broken the piston won't pump compressed air into the tank. If the con-rod is broke the piston won't work at all.
When you have a moment pop the bonnet and look for the air con compressor run by a automotive belt on the side of the engine. Get the engine running at idle and then get someone else to turn the air con on whilst you watch the compressor. As the system is turned on the compressor clutch should engage and the unit should start turning, if this isn't happening there isn't enough pressure in the system (leak or just low on pressure) Get to your local air con guy and they will pressure test for leaks. Air con system is run on pressure, so that is really the issue you need to rectify
Note:- Manufacturers put the air con rad infront of the engine rad so stones get to that first, check the condition of the front rad through your bumper
Please note your fuse wire must be 2 to 3 times of running amps. Suppose running amps is 6.5, the fuse wire must be minimum 15 and maximum 20 amps. Always choose the maximum. Other chances for fuse blown;
And in your a/c, If your fuse tripped as soon as compressor starts, check compressor winding with ohms. In between 2 terminal it should be equal in 3 phase compressor. In single phase compressor, SR must be the total of other two.If any huge difference it means winding weak. If any ohms reads between any terminal and grounding it means compressor grounded for which you have to replace compressor. Hope, it's helpful?
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