Question about Kenmore Freezers

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Have a 253 9284014 it iced over and was not circulating air uniformly hence items on top shelf was not being frozen while items on bottom remained frozen. We emptied the unit and defrosted it for several hours. We pour some warm water down the inner back wall to speed the ice melt. After cleaning we plugged in and the unit ran for about an hour cooling then suddenly stopped cycling on and off. No indications why. Any suggestions?

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  • qadwak Mar 17, 2011

    Would any of these possibilities that you indicated cause the unit NOT to come on at all? At this point nothing is coming on---not even the fan. The machine is old but until it began freezing over we had no problems with it. And as I mentioned it ran for a couple of hours after removing the ice before we noticed that it was not cycling. I do not have an ohm meter and will have to buy one tomorrow.

  • qadwak Mar 17, 2011

    Thank you. I performed the OHM test on the cold controller and with negative results. Then I disconnected the wires from the CC and connected the two wires and saw that power was coming into it and that the system came on. Purchased a replacement cold controller and we are off and running. Excellent!!! Both the freezer is cooling and the wife has cooled down since I was responsible----as it was my idea to pour water over the frozen coils. I suspect that the controller for the heater is going out otherwise the thing would not have frozen--huh?

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  • Master
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It sounds that the defrost circuit has failed in your freezer since you are developing icing on the evaporator coils. The defrost circuit is made up of three parts, the defrost timer, defrost heater, and thermostat.
The way it works is that normally the compressor has power for 8 to 12 hours, then the timer cuts power off and sends power to the defrost heater for about 45 minutes. The heater is attached to the coil and warms up the coil to melt the ice. When the coil reaches about 40 deg F, the thermostat which is in series with the heater, opens up cutting off power to the heater. This prevents the freezer from getting too hot. After the 45 minutes are up, the timer switches the power back to the compressor again to restart the 8 to 12 hour cooling cycle.

Any of the three components can fail causing you not to get the defrost cycle to work. Typically the timer stops advancing so you either stay in permanent cooling or defrost mode. Or the heater burns out so it can't heat up the coil.

You can have a service person fix it but, if you have some mechanical ability it relatively easy to diagnose and fix. To start, check the defrost timer. It looks like this:
have a 253 9284014 it iced over and was not - slamfix_45.jpg

I think your problem is that the timer is getting stuck, and not advancing properly so it stay longer in cooling than it should. This will cause the evaporator coils to ice up. If it stay too long in the defrost mode, the compressor won't come on.

It either located behind the freezer near the compressor or in the temperature control box in the freezer compartment. On the side of the timer, there is a round cam that can be turned with a straight screwdriver. Turn it until it clicks. With the freezer plugged in, the compressor should start up again and cool down.

After the freezer is back to normal temperature, turn the cam on the timer again until it clicks. The compressor should stop and the heater should be turning on and getting warm. Look and listen for signs of melting ice on the coils. There should sounds of ice crackling and water dripping out the drain tube below the freezer. The compressor should start up again within 45 minutes. If it does not come back on again the problem is with the defrost timer. It needs to be replaced.

You can get replacement parts at your local appliance repair supply or online such as repairclinic.com. Hope this helps you, let me know if you need any additional help.


Posted on Mar 18, 2011

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  • Master
  • 2,468 Answers

You probably got water either in the cold control(temperature set control) and ruined it,or water found its way down to the ptc overload on the compressor and ruined this one,you could try removing the cover off the cold control in the refrigerator and bypassing the wires to this control,if it starts,then replace this control,you cant do this with the ptc overload though

Posted on Mar 17, 2011

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  • Master
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It may have gone into the defrost cycle which isn't melting the ice but is still shutting the system down. I would guess it's the heater that's the problem.

DEFROST PROBLEM
The evaporator coil behind the cover on the back wall inside the freezer will ice up under normal conditions. Every 8 to 10 hours for around 20 minutes the defrost timer (or in most newer models the electronic adaptive defrost control) will turn the defrost heater on to melt the built up ice. There is a defrost thermostat which prevents the heater from overheating the freezer by breaking the heater circuit when the temp reaches close to 32 degrees F. The entire cooling system shuts off during the defrost cycle and starts back when the timer advances through the cycle.

If this ice is not melted it will continue to build up until the air can't flow over the coil to circulate the cold air through the freezer and into the fridge. The temperature change in the fridge is usually noticed first followed by the freezer.

If the defrost thermostat is bad, it can prevent the heater from coming on OR it won't turn the heater off when it gets too warm. It is clamped to the evaporator coil at the top to sense the temp. If it appears to be misshapen it is bad.
With an ohm meter it should show continuity when cold and none when warm.
You can also bypass(disconnect the two wires plugged into it and twist them together) the thermostat to see if the heater comes on then. If it does then you know the thermostat is bad and needs replaced.

The defrost heater is located on the evaporator. It is in a tube which is at the bottom and can also go up the sides of the evaporator. On some types you can see a burnt spot if it's bad. With an ohm meter it should show continuity from end to end when disconnected from the wiring in the freezer. You can also test the wiring for voltage when it's in the defrost mode.

you have a defrost timer and you can test it. It can be located under the fridge behind the kick panel on the front. Some are in the fridge with the controls at the top. You can turn the defrost timer till it clicks and everything shuts down. The heater should now come on. If it does, replace the timer because that means the timer is not running. If it doesn't, check the heater and defrost thermostat. Turn the timer again till everything starts back up to end the defrost cycle.

Posted on Mar 17, 2011

  • Charles T Nevin
    Charles T Nevin Mar 17, 2011

    Would any of these possibilities that you indicated cause the unit NOT
    to come on at all? At this point nothing is coming on---not even the
    fan. The machine
    is old but until it began freezing over we had no problems with it. And
    as I mentioned it ran for a couple of hours after removing the ice
    before we noticed that it was not cycling. I do not have an ohm meter
    and will have to buy one tomorrow.

    When the timer goes into the defrost mode nothing works while it defrost. This takes maybe 30 minutes.If it's not in the defrost mode. Cut everything off for a few minutes then turn it back on and listen for a click from the compressor relay as the compressor tries to start.
    Is the compressor motor running.If no check starter/overload relay. The relay is a small usually black cube shaped electrical part plugged into the compressor or wired to it nearby. It may appear burnt or rattle when shaken if it's bad. The two connections should show continuity with an amp meter. If it's good then it's most likely the compressor causing the problem.

  • Charles T Nevin
    Charles T Nevin Mar 17, 2011

    Yes one of the three defrost components seems to be bad. Timer or electronic control, defrost heater, defrost thermostat.

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