Question about Shimano Xtr Fd 970 E Type

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The plate on my e-type is bending when pulling the line, making shifts unprecise. What do I do wrong ?

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I am not quite sure what you mean by plate, but if you mean that the whole derailleur assembly is moving under tension, you have to make sure that the bottom bracket cups are tight.

To do this will require removing the crankset and following the installation instructions listed here. follow the directions for your brand of crankset (if Shimano, then Hollowtech II) under the bearing installation heading.

Posted on Mar 16, 2011

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Have changed clutch and master and slave cylinders on my freelander 1.8 and still cannot get it in gear. Any suggestions please


You might have bent the drive plate when putting the gearbox back in! You can not let any weight of the gearbox hang on the plate when putting it back in it will bend the plate only other thing could be air in the line incorrect adjustment ,wrong size cyl.or if the push rod is non-adjustable put a longer adjustable rod into try.

Oct 03, 2015 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Needle hits the plate and bends. What would cause this?


try another needle and see if the needle still bends,, if the needle
still does bends then there could be something wrong with the needle
bar and the machine needs to be checked.

Nov 05, 2012 | Kenmore Sewing Machines

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Needle breaks hits needle plate


Check to see if plate is damaged or needle is bent. Could be wrong needle style for the type of work you are doing.

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Stiff clutch on 2002 elantra , clutch and transmission new , slave clinder pushes wrong way ,whats wrong ?


FYI, the slave cylinder is pushing correctly, the clutch is the 'PULL TYPE', not the 'PUSH' type.
Go to www.hmaservice.com and register the vehicle by VIN #. You'll then have access to Shop Manuals, Wiring Diagrams, Illustrations, Service Bulletins, etc.

The clutch on the 2002 Elantra, as I mentioned, is the "Pull Type". Instead of 'Pushing' on the throw-out bearing, it "Pulls" on it. The pressure plate engages when the bearing is released (when it is 'pulled' back into the pressure plate 'fingers'

Was the new trans & clutch installed at an authorized Hyundai Service Department? If not, you might want to have them inspect the installation to determine what's wrong. If it WAS installed by a Hyundai Service Dept, take it back to them & tell them to FIX IT!

Jun 30, 2011 | Hyundai Motor 2002 Elantra

1 Answer

I have a 2002 ford f150 xlt fx4 4.6l engine. 2 door reg cab. i have a 4 wheel drive shift lever. the 4 wheel will only engage on rare occasion and only after pulling into 4 low then to 2 high then back...


For the 2002 MY ( this is in the 2006 Section, just want to call it out to others that might find the solution, this does not apply to the 2006 MY )

Operationally vacuum shifts the front axle between 2WD and 4WD mode. The GEM ( Generic Electronics Module ) applies ground to the solenoid needed for the mode selected on the switch ( for ESOF ) or when the transfer case shift lever is moved ( MSOF ).The contact plates in the transfer case signal the GEM that the transfer case is engaged, and the Vacuum solenoids need to be activated ( either 2WD to 4WD or 4WD to 2WD ).


Lift and support the front of the truck so the front wheels are off the ground ( take safety precautions, chock wheels, jack stands, etc )
Key on, engage 4x4 and try to turn the front drive shaft.
- If it turns it is a problem with the transfer case.
- If it doesn't it is a front axle engagement problem.

- If the front drive shaft does not turn :
•With the truck running ( with front wheel back on the ground ), switch from 2WD to 4WD and back again, the vacuum shift motor should move the lever on the front axle.
{ picture of shift motor }
-- If the vacuum shift motor does not move:
1.Check for vacuum on the lines while shifting between modes. Pink vacuum line is 2WD mode, Light Blue vacuum line is 4WD.
2.Check the fuses for the 4WD system and the solenoids.
3.Check the vacuum lines from the vacuum shift motor to the solenoids on the firewall.
4.Check the vacuum lines from the solenoids to the vacuum reservoir box behind the battery.
5.Check the vacuum reservoir box for cracks.
6.Typical solution is the vacuum lines ( to the solenoids or to the vacuum shift motor ) are cracked or the vacuum shift motor has a cracked diaphragm and has water in it.
7.Could be the shift plate contacts in the transfer case are corroded / not making good contact, and not activating the solenoids.
sscullys_148.jpg

- If the front drive shaft turns:
For MSOF systems
-- Check that the shift linkage on the transfer case is moving when the lever is moved from 2W to 4H and 4L.

I am going to take a SWAG that it is 1 of 2 places, both cases the front drive shaft is locking into place.

1. The front vacuum shift motor is not moving ( vacuum or vacuum line issue ).
2. The contact plates for the shift motor are not making contact and are not signalling the GEM that the transfer case state has been changed.

I'd start with the front axle off the ground test, and see which way to go, before you start repalcing items.

Mar 27, 2011 | 2006 Ford F-150

1 Answer

Swap 84 chev. van rear end instructions


FIRST THING IS GET IT UP AND TAKE THE COVER OFF THE REAR END PULL TIRE AND BRAKE DRUMS NOW TAKE THE SMALL BOLT OUT OF THE CARRIER AND REMOVE THE LARGE PIN NOW PUSH THE AXLE IN AND THE C CLIP WILL COME OFF PULL THE AXLES OUT AND UNBOLT THE BACKING PLATES AND TIE THEM UP DO NOT TAKE OFF THE BRAKE LINES THIS WAY YOU DONT HAVE TO BLEED BRAKES OR CHANGE ANYTHING OVER TO THE NEW DIFFERENTAL TAKE THE BRAKE LINES OFF THE CLIPS THEY JUST BEND OVER AND OULL DRIVESHAFT AND U BOLT AND LOWER IT OUT TAKE YOUR NEW DIFFERENTAL AND PULL THE COVER AND REMOVE THE AXLES BEST TO INSTALL NEW SEAL AT THIS TIME CHECK AXLES FOR ANT PITTING WERE THE BEARING RIDES IF YOU SEE ANY REPLACE AXLE AND BEARING ( THE AXLE IS THE RACE OF THE BEARING) PUT IT UP BOLT IT DOWN INSTALL BACKING PLATE AND AXLES NEW COVER GASKET OR SEALER MAKE SUR ITS CLEAN AND DRY WITH SEALER AND FILL IT UP WITH GEAR LUBE YOUR DONE

Oct 15, 2010 | Chevrolet G20 Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Whenever I shift (at a stop) from neutral to first the whole bike either shifts/jolts or occasionally grinds the gears. The clutch is fully depressed when doing so. Thoughts on how to fix or what is...


Your idle may be set too high . 800 to 1000 RPM should be about right. That can cause problems shifting from a stopped position.You may have the wrong oil in your cycle . Do not use car oil or any oil that says Energy Conserving on the label . It will shorten the life of your wet clutch and transmission gears. Use oil that has the JASO MA certification on the label. 10w-40 cold climate or 20w-50 hot climate. A synthetic oil will help you run cooler and shift easier in hot weather conditions and under all conditions. One other thing to check is your clutch plates , if the bike sat for a number of years, the clutch plates could be stuck together. Take off the clutch cover , take off the springs, take off the clutch pressure plate, and pull all the plates out. Carefully separate the plates, replace any scored or burnt plates , rub oil on all the surfaces, and put them back in. This will make the clutch work smoothly if the plates were causing the problems.

Sep 05, 2010 | 1985 Yamaha XJ 700 X Maxim

1 Answer

Removing the transmission pan to change the filter the linkage bracket is in the way . What is the trick to removing it or getting the pan down?


Take the shift cable out of the bracket. Then either remove it (two torxs 40 bolts on top) or bend it out of the way. You will be able to bend it back, with no ill effect. Also the heat sheild on the passenger side will need to be bent or removed It has two 10mm bolts. You may have to have some one pry down on the exhaust cross pipe to pull the pan out. If it's 4x4 I would recommend taking the front drive line out. Makes the shifter bracket easier. There is a rubber boot for the drive line at the t-case. It is held on by a metal clamp. You can cut it off or bend it open to get it off.

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1 Answer

Subzero 550 Gurgling whenever door closes


Personally it does not bother me that much on mine. But since you asked, there is drain line that runs into the drip tray underneath. The line should not have any bends in it to form a P-trap which will hold enough water in to form a seal, so when the door closes and the pressures equal you have a gurgling sound. If it really bothers youtry these steps, remove the kick plate by removing the two phillips head screws on either side. The drip pan is suspended in the middle of the support and will probably have water in the drip pan so put a towel down before you start. Once off shine a light to see if the tube has a bend in it. Depending on when it was made there may be a clamp that hold the drain tube in place. Carefully pull the hose past that clamp to remove sag and eliminate the bend which forms the P-trap. You have to be careful as the hose maybe brittle and come apart. So if you pull to hard you may wind up replacing that line which requires pulling the unit at considerable cost. There is a check valve that can be ordered but was only used for a short time. The inline check valve was a part number 4202130. If it bothers you too much and don't want to try the fix here is the Sub Zero locator page for parts and service. http://www.subzero.com/locator/locator.aspx?type=0&zip=02030

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2 Answers

Manual clutch


Sounds like the wrong pressure plate. I got a kit from Autozone and it was the wrong pressure plate. My old one was obviously thicker. With the new pressure plate, the shift fork was almost at full travel before any resistance. That's no good. I had to pull the transmisssion again and use my old pressure plate. Luckily, it was in good condition. Then, the clutch slack was easily adjusted and works great.

Jun 07, 2008 | 1992 Isuzu Pickup

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