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Trying to instal a new clutch spring, any tips????

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  • tbone75862 Mar 17, 2011

    What kind of clutch spring is it?Chain saw?

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Wath model saw you hawe?

Posted on Mar 18, 2011

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My clutch pedal stay close to the floor in my Acura CL. Doesnt return fully like it used too. Cant figure it out and I've replaced everythin


Bobbie, If your sure the system is bled properly,did you get the clutch fork back in correct position, was it the correct bearing etc., you may have to adjust the clutch pedal and / or if it has a mechanical return spring, change the spring, it could be weak.
Check the attached links,instruction and guides for clutch pedal adjustment., bleeding,etc.Good luck
"I hope this helped you out, if so let me know by pressing the helpful button. Check out some of my other posts if you need more tips and info."

Clutch Kit Installation Acura CL 2 2L 2 3L

Apr 02, 2016 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Replace clutch spring


You need to remove the clutch assy from the chainsaw prior trying to replace the spring. Be aware that the clutch assy is no longer available so be careful not to damage it on removal.

Mar 01, 2015 | Echo Garden

1 Answer

Hi have an 88 cbx750 f2 the sprag in the slipper clutch is slipping, installed 2nd hand low mileage unit , better but still slipping above 6000rpm at times


Most of my friends with 88 slipper clutches spray paint their rims black, and it seems to help. One guy actually put new springs in his. Clutches slip because the friction material is worn out or the springs have lost their tension or their spacers. Put a washer on all the spring bolts and see if that helps, if it does, get new springs.

Sep 27, 2014 | 1988 Honda CBX 750 F

1 Answer

HOW DO I CHANGE MY CLUTCH AND PLATES 2008 FLHTCU?


Clutch and plates replacement can be performed on the motorcycle without removing the clutch shell or hub.


FIRST remove the primary chaincase cover. THEN remove six metric bolts to release the clutch diaphragm spring retainer from the clutch hub by loosening each bolt gradually and in a star sequence around the Hub circumference and then remove the diaphragm spring retainer, the diaphragm spring and pressure plate from the clutch hub and after the pressure plate has been removed remove the 9 friction plates, the steel plates, the damper spring and the damper spring seat from the clutch hub. Clean and inspect as necessary and wash all parts except for friction plates (and any bearing if removed) in appropriate cleaning solvent and then blow parts dry with low pressure compressed air as high pressure compressed air is unnecessary and dangerous. CHECK the friction plates by blowing off all lubricant from them BUT DO NOT wipe them off with a rag if they are going to be reused. THEN measure the thickness of each plate with a dial caliper or micrometer and if any plate is less than 0.143 in. (3.62 mm) thick throw them all away and replace them with a complete new set. ALSO look for worn or damaged fiber surface material on all sides. If new friction plates will be installed soak them all in FORMULA+ TRANSMISSION AND PRIMARY CHAINCASE LUBRICANT (or whatever equivalent oil that you will be using in the primary after reassembly) for at least five minutes. THEN CHECK the steel plates for any grooving, bluish colouring (which indicates overheating/burning and which is usually accompanied with distortion/warping) and check for distortion by laying each plate on a machinist or other precision flat surface and try to insert a 0.006 inch (0.15 mm) feeler gauge between the plate and the precision surface. Do this in several places around the plate. If the feeler gauge slips under any plate or any plate is grooved, bluish or otherwise appears to be defective discard it and replace with a new plate. THEN rotate the clutch hub and shell to check for bearing smoothness and replace the bearing if it runs roughly, binds or has any end play. ALSO check the primary chain sprocket and the starter ring gear on the clutch shell at this time and replace the clutch shell if either the sprocket or ring gear are badly worn or damaged. ALSO check the slots that mate with the clutch plates on both the clutch shell and the hub and replace the shell or hub if any of the slots are worn or damaged (wear here can cause clutch hang-up on release). NOW check the diaphragm spring and diaphragm spring retainer for cracks or bent tabs and replace if any damage is evident.


After having soaked the friction plates as advised above first install the narrow friction plate on the clutch hub, engaging the tabs on this plate with the slots in the clutch shell then install the damper spring seat (sometimes called a judder spring) on the clutch hub so that it sits inboard of the previously installed narrow friction plate with the concave side out (facing away from damper spring

seat) (that will be with the narrow side facing into the clutch hub and the wider side facing out) THEN install a steel plate with the round edge (produced when the plate was stamped out from a larger piece of steel) outward and then install a regular friction plate onto the clutch hub and continue by installing the seven remaining sets of steel and fibre plates in the same manner, alternating between steel plates and friction plates so that no two steel are touching each other and so that no two fibre plates are touching each other and then when they are all in place install the pressure plate onto the clutch hub aligning holes in the plate with the threaded bosses on the hub. THEN install and seat the diaphragm spring into the recess of the pressure plate with the concave side inward and with the holes in the diaphragm spring retainer aligned with the threaded bosses on the clutch hub tabs on the spring retainer contact flats on the inboard side of the bosses install the six metric bolts to secure the diaphragm spring retainer to the clutch hub and alternately tighten the bolts to 90-110 in-lbs (10.2-12.4 Nm). THEN install the primary chaincase cover with a new gasket and torque the fasteners to 108-120 in-lbs (12.2-13.6 Nm) in a sequence top to bottom from the centre to the front and then top to bottom from the centre to the back of the cover and then reinstall the primary case drain plug and o-ring and torque it to 14-21 ft-lbs (19.0-28.5 Nm). THEN refill the primary chaincase with lubricant only up to the bottom of the clutch diaphragm spring (if there is too much oil the clutch may drag). THEN adjust the clutch by turning the clutch adjustment screw in until it just resists and then with the cable slack somewhat removed operate the clutch lever a few times to set the clutch release balls in their ramps and then recheck the clutch release pushrod adjustment screw again so that it just resists tightening as it is screwed in and then back it out one half to one full turn and while holding it stationary tighten the adjuster screw lock nut. THEN the cable can be adjusted to provide one sixteenth to one eighth of an inch of freeplay at the clutch cable bracket or perch on the handlebars. THEN reinstall the clutch inspection (derby) cover with the five T-27 Torx screws and washers and alternatively in a cross pattern tighten the screws to 84- 108 in-lbs (9.5-12.2 Nm).

Jun 19, 2014 | 2006 Harley Davidson FLHRI Road King

1 Answer

Clutch cable installation


  • Put your mower in the lowest position and open the hood.
  • 2 Lift up the retainer spring that holds the clutch cable to the adjustment bracket. Pull the cable out of the bracket.
  • 3 Remove the clutch cable spring from the idler bracket. Pry the spring open with a pair of pliers if necessary.
  • 4 Hook a new clutch cable spring over the idler bracket and squeeze it closed.
  • 5 Slip the clutch cable under the retainer spring.

May 04, 2013 | Husqvarna Garden

1 Answer

Slide drops down but pops back up in Kodak carousel 750h


Sounds like what you are describing is "continuous cycle". If it is, then this can usually be fixed with a fairly quick adjustment. Once the bottom is off the projector, locate the clutch spring / clutch contact. The tip of the clutch spring (spring sticking straight out of the camstack hub) should be just visable over the clutch spring (the "L"-shaped spring contact). If bending is necessary to achieve a normal cycle, BEND CAREFULLY!! The springs are old and brittle!!.

Jan 23, 2013 | Kodak Carousel 5600 Slide Projector

1 Answer

Dodge 2500 2001 clutch chatter


the problem may have been in the damper spring setup in the clutch plate
it the clutch plate was a standard plate , it would have had 4 damper coil springs but the last plate fitted may have been a heavy duty plate that would have had 5 or 6 damper springs
if the springs are of insufficient tension then there is a grabbing action during clutch engagement but with more springs and different tensions that is overcome and the action is a smooth clutch application
manufacturers that have design faults quickly change the design as clutch shops are fussy when it comes to rework so I would think that it is not the clutch but an incorrect plate for the application

May 06, 2017 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Installing klutch


Buy clutch cover gasket
Unhook clutch cable at clutch cover
Remove clutch cover
Remove 5 clutch spring bolts
Remove springs
Remove pressure plate
Remove plates and disc noticing order
Replace with new plates/disc in same order (after soaking in oil for at least a few hours, over night would be better.
Put everthing back together in order of removal.

May 03, 2009 | 1997 kawasaki VN 800 A Vulcan

2 Answers

Install a 97 saab 900s clutch cable


1. Remove the battery.
2. Remove the clutch cable end from the clutch arm end at the wire stop.
3. Slide out the rubber doughnut from the gearbox housing which holds the clutch cable
4. Move the distribution box nut and the alarm pin attached to it (some modules)
5. Disconnect the clutch cable holder from the fender and the data link holder.
6. Remove the drivers lower panel below the steering wheel and remove the air duct as well as the knee shield.
7. Slide out the fuse box holder and ICE Box (should be a black box with many wires going to it). You can remove the instrument cluster at this point but you can also do this without removing the cluster with a little patience
8. Move the pedal spring to one side and remove the eye catch for the cable.
9. Remove the clutch cable by pulling it out from the engine compartment
10. Reinstall in the reverse. Saab actually came out with a bulletin which Needed one to install two washers at the back of the new cable instead of one. The factory cable comes with one but you can remove the 2nd washer off the old cable and install it on the new cable so two exist. This helps take up excessive pedal slack.

Feb 25, 2009 | 1997 Saab 900

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