Same problem, fan/unit goes off after 10 minutes or so. Replace run capacitor still same problem. When it is running cools very well, large copper pipe gets really cold and small copper pipe gets really hot. Exhaust from fan is warm.
Fan does seem to have a little bit of dirty oil trail around the shaft.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
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Re: Rudd 2 ton 10 S
The small copper line should not be really hot its supposed to be carrying liquid refrigerant which has already had the heat "pressed" out of it by the compressor and carried of by the air flowing over the condenser coil. This could indicate a few things; that your unit is overcharged, you have a mismatched evaporator coil and condenser, an ineffective condenser fan motor or a clogged condenser coil and as a result your compressor is shutting of due to an overload condition from the building heat and back pressure between the compressor outlet and the evaporator inlet.
First make sure your condenser is clean and that adequate air is flowing over the fins of the condenser coil. Then be sure your equipment is a matched system. A indication that your condenser fan motor is not at speed is slow starting a humming sound and excessive heat. In my experience this complaint is generally the result of a bad condenser fan motor that over heats and shuts of after a short period and the build up of heat in the liquid refrigerant line of course trips the compressor overload circuit- which by the way usually takes hours to reset. I hope you've already resolved this, but in case you haven't......
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Welcome to the world of Ruud! Ok James heres the deal. It sounds like the condenser fan motor has failed. Its not a repairable item but the motor is not too expensive. Disconnect the main power at the fuse block on the side of your house next to your a/c. Remove the screws that hold the top fan section and carefully turn the fan/panel assembly over taking care not to stress the wires. Determine how the fan is mounted (probably 4 screws) and go find your new motor. Both Rheem and Ruud use the same motor mounting. Most a/c supply houses have a motor that will fit or go to graingers. Make sure you get a matching run capacitor for that motor. It will have separate wires and not share any wiring with the old capacitor. The old capacitor will have to stay in place since it is also connected to the compressor. The old motor will have 3 wires and the new one 4 (2 brown for the capacitor and 2 others to put on the contactor that the compressor wires go to). If its a heat pump it could be a board and youll need help. good luck
Hi, this is a 2 ton unit from the numbers you have provided. I'm not sure what you are asking about the capacitor?? If you are installing the run capacitor, is it for the compressor/outdoor fan motor? I can't tell you how without looking at the schematics on the unit. Its pretty simple though. If you know its bad, you may have to purchase one online. You have to be a contractor in the hvac field to get one at a wholesale store. If its a dual run capacitor, it will have a c, fan, and herm stamped on top. This is for the compressor and outdoor fan motor. It will say something like this, ( 30mfdx5mfdx370 volts and so on. The 2 brown wires on the condenser fan motor will go one taped off and the other on the fan terminal if you are using a dual cap. If you are using a single 5 mfd or larger on a new motor, both brown wires will go to each side of cap. I will need more details if this is not what you need. Thanks Shastalaker7 H,V,A.C. contractor Ps, Send me more information on what you need?
turn your entire system off and let it cool down.
turn everything up, after 30-60 minutes.
If compressor and fan running, on outside unit, check freon
level. If freon level is low, charge it. If freon is too low, crompressor
and fan want turn on. Call tech to charge system.
If fan is not running, check capacitor for fan. Unplug it, after
you tag wiring and terminal properly. Bring capacitor to local appliance
parts store, If it is bad, replace new capacitor of same specification.
This is main culprit (should cost you between $10-40)
Also, have a contact switch check. Usually, it is black.
If fan is still not working replace fan. (Usually, $80-100)
Last resort is to replace compressor.
Sounds like the Unit might be low on charge.But without correct readings not sure.
The new unit with 410 will actually cool better due to higher boiling point temp. of freon type.Poor air circulation could also cause problem.Such as dirty filter, too slow fan speed,dirty coil.Also could have obstruction in freon lines either at pump,in line set,or in coil.
Get someone u trust to check it out and ask for their Rudd Dealership Training Credentials.
The fan motor is getting hot and going off on the internal overload in the motor. This is caused by either a low voltage, a bad capacitor, or tight or dry bearings in the motor. To check the bearings turn the power off to the unit, then spin the fan blade if it spins freely then the bearings are ok. To check the capacitor you will need some kind of tester or you can buy a capacitor and replace it, that's what a lot of people do. They usually don't cost very much. To check the voltage you will need a voltmeter and measure the volts at the unit.
It sounds like your condenser fan motor may be locked up or the capacitor that helps give the condenser fan motor a kick to get it started may be defective. Try turning your system on and using a long screwdriver try to push the fan blade on the condenser fan motor to see if it will run normally if you give it the starting boost it needs.If it does run at full speed and doesn't over heat or start and then slow down then you probably only need to replace a simple 10-12$ capacitor. If it barely turns, makes an odd humming sound or overheats etc. then you will have to replace the condenser fan motor. This is assuming that the outdoor condenser has the 220v supplied and the 24v supplied to the compressor relay, that the compressor relay is engaged and suppling 220v to the condenser fan motor.