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I have a Westward jack Model-3W929A 20Ton, this jack stop going up. Air is bleeding out of the two holes under the pump cylinder. The fluid level is AOK. EXPLAIN THANKS

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6ya6ya
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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autodr
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SOURCE: Bleeding clutch slave cylinder

i think youre doing the right thing. they are very stubborn to bleed because the hyd. line goes up high across back of engine before droppiing back down to slave cyl., trapping air. could try to gravity bleed by opening bleeder at slave, cap off of master cyl, full with fluid then it may start to come out after a bit. then try your process again. or can try to bleed at connections further up the line, working your way back to bleeder. hope this helps. be patient.

Posted on Nov 15, 2008

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SOURCE: 1996 T-100 dash brake light will not go out

The brake fluid level sensor in the master cylinder is stuck in the lower position which completes the circuit to illuminate the light.. Try tapping lightly on the side of the reservoir to loosen it. If that does not help, you will need to replace the level sensor.
Thanks for choosing FixYa for assistance.

Posted on Jan 25, 2009

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SOURCE: Is it a bad Slave Cylinder or a Master Cylinder on my 95 F-150

did you try to take line off at slave cyl. and see if fluid comes from resavor? also take bleeder out and see if holes are pluged up in bleeder. if all this chks. out ok than its got to be slave cyl. they have been known to go bad. just that quick too.

Posted on Jan 26, 2009

mecanica03
  • 902 Answers

SOURCE: bleed brakes on 2003 toyota corolla

i try to help you, firts refill brake fluid container,open purge valve in one wheel front only,wait few minutes when drops fluid, close this valve and open other wheel, same procedure, finally repeat this in each 4 wheels

Posted on Jul 14, 2009

  • 19 Answers

SOURCE: Load levelers must be leaking, the air pump is running

No, you may want to replace the shocks though. You can leave the leveler disconnected and replace your shocks with regular shocks.

Posted on Jun 06, 2010

Testimonial: "Thanks, I have come to find out this is so common a problem, they sell "conversion kits" just for leaky air shocks."

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1 Answer

Why does my 20ton bottle jack keep pushing the ram up about 4inches


If you are not getting a full lift, you should check the fluid level in the jack. If the fluid is low it will limit how far the ram can extend.

Mar 21, 2015 | Cars & Trucks

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Need to know procedure for bleeding master cylinder and lines.


There is a special pump used to bleed the master cylinder first then after the master cylinder is installed you bleed the brakes and fill as you go it's a two-man operation

Mar 03, 2015 | Cars & Trucks

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Bled brakes on my 1999 chevy blazer still goes to floor


this is an indication that there is still air in the system and the bleeding process was inefficient. Bleed the lines at the master cylinder first by loosening off the lines and holding the pedal down until the lines are retightened. Then starting at the longest line first bleed the system finishing at the shortest line . Keep the fluid level in the reservoir topped up at all times.

Apr 21, 2014 | 1999 Chevrolet Blazer

1 Answer

How to bleed hydraulic clutch


Instructions:

1) The Hydraulic system should be bled to remove all the air whenever air enters the system. This occurs if the fluid level has been allowed to fall so low that air has been drawn into the clutch master cylinder. Under normal circumstances, air should not enter the system when the quick disconnect hydraulic line fittings have been disconnected. The procedure is very similar to bleeding a brake system, but depends mainly on gravity, rather than the pumping action of the pedal, for the bleeding effect.

2) Fill the master cylinder to the top with new brake fluid conforming to DOT 3 or DOT 4 specifications. Caution: Do not re-use any of the fluid coming from the system during the bleeding operation and don't use fluid from which has been inside an open container for an extended period of time.

3) Raise the vehicle and place it securely on jack stands or drive it securely up on ramps (whichever method you chose) to gain access to the bleeder valve, which is located on the top left side of the bellhousing (See Illustration 1-1 below). Try to keep the truck as level as possible. Caution: Don't forget to chock the rear wheels and set parking brake for extra safety...

4) Remove the dust cap which fits over the bleeder valve and push a length of clear plastic hose over the valve. Place the other end of the hose into a clear container.

5) Open the bleeder valve. Fluid will run from the clutch master cylinder, down the hydraulic line, into the release cylinder (the Slave Cylinder) and out through the clear plastic tube. Let the fluid run out until it is free of bubbles.
Note: Don't let the fluid level drop too low in the clutch master cylinder, or air will be drawn into the hydraulic line and the whole process will have to be started over.

6) Close the bleeder valve.

7) Open the bleeder valve and have an assistant slowly depress the clutch pedal allowing fluid to flow through the clear plastic hose. When the clutch pedal is almost to the floor, close the bleeder valve and have the assistant release the pedal.

8) Slowly press the pedal five times, waiting two (2) seconds each time the pedal is released. When releasing the pedal on this step, release it fast. This tends to help **** fluid down the stream and aid in faster bubble reduction.

9) Fill the fluid reservoir to the top.

10) The clutch should now be completely bled. If it isn't, (indicated by failure to disengage completely, and a soft or no pedal), repeat steps 5 through 9.

11) Continue this process until all air is evacuated from the system, indicated by a solid stream of fluid being ejected from the bleeder valve each time with no air bubbles in the hose or container.

12) Install the dust cap and lower the vehicle. Check carefully for proper operation before placing vehicle in normal service. Check the fluid level.

Note: If you can NOT get fluid out of the bleeder screw, then the internal check valve in your clutch master cylinder may be stuck, or you haven't bleed the system for at least 30 minutes. You will either have to use a different bleed technique, or replace the clutch master cylinder. Bleeding a Ranger clutch system takes time and patience. One small mistake / loss of patience / or shortcut, and you'll have to start all over.

Alternate Technique: (these provided by Dirk). Here is one way you can try that really worked great for him.

1) Disconnect the hose from the bottom of the fluid reservoir
2) Use a hand pump to manually force the fluid down the line.
3) Reconnect line to reservoir after process and fill fluid as needed.

Note: The reverse bleeding procedure will not work on all rangers. Some rangers' bleeder is nothing but a tapered hex bolt with a hole in it, no real way to get a good seal on it.

Jul 17, 2012 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Rear caliper retracts fully and does not allow full travel of pads to disk!! how do i repair that? new master cylinder and pads, system has been properly bled so no air in the line.


It shouldn't do this and I've never seen one do this. You may have to "pump up" the rear brake to get the piston all the way out. This may take several full strokes of the master cylinder with the bleeder valve closed. If it isn't pumping up tight, there is probably still air in the system. You must bleed the master cylinder first. To bleed the system, make sure you follow these directions exactly. First depress and hold the rear brake pedal. Loosen the bleeder valve on the caliper and allow the air and brake fluid to bleed out. Tighten the bleeder valve. Release the brake pedal and check the brake fluid level in the reservoir. Do not allow the reservoir to run dry. Repeat until you no longer get any air out of the system. The brakes should pump up then. If not, you have something wrong with the master cylinder. There are no springs in the caliper. If you look in the bottom of the master cylinder, you'll see two holes. One is a large hole and the other is very small. Make sure the small hole is clear. It's only about 0.030" in diameter. Do not enlarge the hole.

Good Luck
steve

Jul 24, 2011 | 1979 Harley Davidson XLH 1000 Sportster

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Convertible top not going up.


LISTEN FOR HYDRALIC PUMP MOTOR OPERATION IN THE TRUNK AREA..IF YES YOU HEAR HYDRALIC PUMP MOTOR RUNNING MAKING A NOISE.CHECK HYDRALIC PUMP FLUID LEVEL BY REMOVING THE SCREW TYPE CHECK PLUG.PLACE RAGS UNDER THE CHECK PLUG.AND UNSCREW REMOVE THE CHECK PLUG. FLUID SHOULD BE 1/4 INCH BELOW THE CHECK PLUG HOLE.IF FLUID IS LOW ADD FLUID UNTIL FLUID LEVEL 1/4 INCH FROM THE PLUG HOLE.IF HYDRALIC FLUID WAS WAY LOW YOU NEED TO BLEED AIR OUT OF THE SYSTEM.MAKE SURE FLUID LEVEL CORRECT.START ENGINE AND TRY RAISING AND LOWER THE CONVERTIBLE TOP USING THE SWITCH.IF TOO MUCH AIR GOT IN SYSTEM.HAVE A HELPER WORK UP AND DOWN CONTROL SWITCH WHILE YOU MANUAL OPEN CLOSE CONVERTIBLE TOP BY HANDS BLEEDING AIR OUT OF SYSTEM.KEEP EYE ON HYDRALIC FLUID LEVEL WHILE BLEEDING THE SYSTEM..LOWER THE TOP AND TURN OFF ENGINE. BEFORE OPENING THE HYDRALIC PUMP FLUID CHECK PLUG BECAUSE FLUID WILL SPRAY EVERY WHERE..IF HYDRALIC PUMP CHECK OUT OKAY AND YOU DO NOT HEAR NO HYDRALIC PUMP NOISE.POWER IS GOING TO HYDRALIC PUMP.EITHER HYDRALIC PUMP MOTOR FAULTY OR FAULTY HYDRALIC PUMP RELAY BEST TO LET MERCEDES BENZ DEALERSHIP CHECK IT OUT...

Apr 30, 2011 | 2005 Mercedes-Benz Mercedes Benz SLK350

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How do you remove and replace a power steering pump on a 2002 chevy lumina?


YOU FIRST YOU NEED TO REMOVE COOLANT RECOVERY RESERVOIR. YOU NEED TO REMOVE DRIVE BELT.NOW PLACE DRAIN PAN UNDER CAR IN LINE WITH POWER STEERING PUMP.NOW SIPHON OUT MUCH POWER STEERING FLUID OUT RESERVOIR USING A SIPHON.ONCE FLUID REMOVE OUT POWER STEERING PUMP.USE A DEEP 3/8 SOCKET ABOUT 13M OR 14 M YOU NEED A SHORT EXTENSION AND A 3/8 RATCHET WRENCH.TO REMOVE POWER STEERING PUMP.TO LOOSEN BOLTS, TAKE DEEP SOCKET IN PULLEY HOLES . LOOK THROUGH POWER STEERING PULLEY HOLES ALIGN DEEP SOCKET THROUGH THE PULLEY HOLES TO THE PUMP BOLTS. LOOSEN ALL THREE BOLTS. YOU HAVE TO TURN PULLEY THREE TIMES TO REMOVE ALL THE POWER STEERING PUMP BOLTS.ONCE POWER STEERING PUMP BOLTS REMOVED.TAKE OLD POWER STEERING PUMP TO THE MACHINE SHOP.THEY WILL HAVE TO REMOVE PULLEY OFF OLD PUMP AND TRANSFER DRIVE PULLEY TO NEW POWER STEERING PUMP.NOW WHEN YOU INSTALL NEW POWER STEERING PUMP.MAKE SURE TO BUY A NEW O RING FOR THE HIGH PRESSURE HOSE TO POWER STEERING PUMP. WHEN ALL DONE BLEED POWER STEERING PUMP. WITH THE FRONT WHEELS TURNED ALL THE WAY TO THE LEFT AND THE IGNITION KEY OFF, CHECK THE POWER STEERING FLUID LEVEL AND IF LOW ADD FLUID UNTIL IT REACHES THE COLD MARK ON THE DIP STICK.SAFELY RAISE FRONT WHEEL OFF GROUND BY SUPPORTING FRONT OF THE CAR USING JACK STANDS, MAKE SURE CAR SITTING ON SOLID LEVEL GROUND. START THE ENGINE AND ALLOW IT TO RUN AT FAST IDLE.RECHECK THE FLUID LEVEL AND ADD MORE IF NECESSARY TO REACH THE COLD MARK ON THE DIP STICK.BLEED THE SYSTEM BY TURNING THE WHEELS FROM SIDE TO SIDE WITHOUT HITTING A STOPS.THIS WILL WORK THE AIR OUT OF THE SYSTEM. DONT ALLOW THE RESERVOIR TO RUN OUT OF FLUID. WHEN AIR IS WORKED OUT OF THE SYSTEM.RETURN THE WHEELS TO THE STRAIGHT AHEAD POSITION, AND LEAVE THE ENGINE RUNNING FOR SEVERAL MINUTES BEFORE SHUTTING OFF. RECHECK THE FLUID LEVEL.ROAD TEST THE VECHICLE TO BE SURE THE STEERING SYSTEM IS FUNCTIONING NORMALLY WITH NO NOISE.RECHECK THE FLUID LEVEL TO BE SURE ITS UP TO THE HOT MARK ON THE DIP STICK WHILE THE ENGINE IS AT NORMAL OPERATING TEMPERATURE ADD FLUID IF NECESSARY.

Apr 18, 2011 | Chevrolet Chevy Cars & Trucks

2 Answers

99 ford 3.0l power steering pump blow fluid out hole in cap when shut off


you may have to much power steering fluid in your system. or you may have air in the system. when

ever you do any kind of work to your power steering. you need to bleed the system. procedure-

block your rear tires. raise the front of your car off the ground with a jack, use jack stands. start engine

and turn steering left and right. stop engine check fluid level apply as needed and repeat procedure

I would do it about three times. then turn ignition off stop engine. remove jack stands lower car. and

and test if the air is out of the system the car will go back to normall. good luck!

Feb 12, 2011 | 1999 Ford Taurus

1 Answer

What is the sequence to bleed the brakes on a 1994 Chevy Suburban?


Bleeding the Brakes
EXCEPT HYDRO-BOOST OR ABS(see Figures 1, 2, 3 and 4)
To bleed the brakes on a vehicle equipped with ABS, please refer to the ABS bleeding procedure in this section.
The brake system must be bled when any brake line is disconnected or there is air in the system.
Never bleed a wheel cylinder when a drum is removed.
  1. Clean the master cylinder of excess dirt and remove the cylinder cover and the diaphragm.
  2. Fill the master cylinder to the proper level. Check the fluid level periodically during the bleeding process and replenish it as necessary. Do not allow the master cylinder to run dry, or you will have to start over.
  3. Before opening any of the bleeder screws, you may want to give each one a shot of penetrating solvent. This reduces the possibility of breakage when they are unscrewed.
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Fig. 1: Connect one end of a clear plastic tube to the bleeder screw and submerge the other end in clean brake fluid

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Fig. 2: Have an assistant pump, then hold in the brake pedal, while you bleed each wheel

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Fig. 3: Using the combination valve depressor-R/V Series

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Fig. 4: Using the combination valve depressor-C/K Series
  1. Attach a length of vinyl hose to the bleeder screw of the brake to be bled. Insert the other end of the hose into a clear jar half full of clean brake fluid, so that the end of the hose is beneath the level of fluid. The correct sequence for bleeding is to work from the brake farthest from the master cylinder to the one closest; right rear, left rear, right front, left front.
  2. The combination valve must be held open during the bleeding process. A clip, tape, or other similar tool (or an assistant) will hold the metering pin in.
  3. Depress and release the brake pedal three or four times to exhaust any residual vacuum.
  4. Have an assistant push down on the brake pedal and hold it down. Open the bleeder valve slightly. As the pedal reaches the end of its travel, close the bleeder screw and release the brake pedal. Repeat this process until no air bubbles are visible in the expelled fluid.
Make sure your assistant presses the brake pedal to the floor slowly. Pressing too fast will cause air bubbles to form in the fluid.
  1. Repeat this procedure at each of the brakes. Remember to check the master cylinder level occasionally. Use only fresh fluid to refill the master cylinder, not the stuff bled from the system.
  2. When the bleeding process is complete, refill the master cylinder, install its cover and diaphragm, and discard the fluid bled from the brake system.
HYDRO-BOOSTThe system should be bled whenever the booster is removed and installed.
  1. Fill the power steering pump until the fluid level is at the base of the pump reservoir neck. Disconnect the battery lead from the distributor.
Remove the electrical lead to the fuel solenoid terminal on the injection pump before cranking the engine.
  1. Jack up the front of the car, turn the wheels all the way to the left, and crank the engine for a few seconds.
  2. Check steering pump fluid level. If necessary, add fluid to the "ADD" mark on the dipstick.
  3. Lower the car, connect the battery lead, and start the engine. Check fluid level and add fluid to the "ADD" mark, as necessary. With the engine running, turn the wheels from side to side to bleed air from the system. Make sure that the fluid level stays above the internal pump casting.
  4. The Hydro-Boost system should now be fully bled. If the fluid is foaming after bleeding, stop the engine, let the system set for one hour, then repeat the second part of Step 4.
The preceding procedures should be effective in removing the excess air from the system, however sometimes air may still remain trapped. When this happens the booster may make a gulping noise when the brake is applied. Lightly pumping the brake pedal with the engine running should cause this noise to disappear. After the noise stops, check the pump fluid level and add as necessary.


Hope helps with this (remember comment and rated this).

Jun 19, 2010 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Clutch pedal is squishy. I think I may have some air in the line and would like to know how to purge it.


Go under your vehicle after you have jacked it up and supported it on jack stands.
Locate the hydraulic slave cylinder, if it is an external slave cylinder then you can bleed it without too much difficulty.
If it is an external slave cylinder, locate the bleed nipple on the side of the slave cylinder,,attach a piece of rubber hose to the bleed nipple.
Then take a small clean jar or bottle and fill it to one quarter full of brake fluid. Dot3 usually.
Then put the free end of the hose into the bottle so that it is submerged under the fluid level.(it is important that you keep it submerged) then take an appropriate size wrench and loosen off the bleed nipple a quarter turn, or enough to get some flow.
Then make sure that the Fluid reservoir is kept topped up. while you slowly pump your clutch pedal,,then after doing this, leave the system alone for an hour or so(your choice) and let any remaining air bubbles escape from the line.
After you have done all this,,tighten up the bleed nipple, remove the rubber hose,,and save the contents of the jar for later use.(remember, brake fluid must be left to stand 24 hours after being removed from a closed system before re-use) once this is all done,,you should be good to go.

Jan 29, 2009 | 1999 Chevrolet Blazer

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