Question about Epiphone Jack Casady Signature Bass Guitar

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The potmeters need to be replaced, but I can't find the right ones: 2.5 kOhm, logarithmic, long shaft

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If the pots are just NOISY, get some CRC226 from Home Depot in the electrical dept and using the plastic spout, shoot some int the slot where the leads go in. Use ONLY this product as other cleaners can destroy the pots. It is in a small blue can about $2.70. If you used other products, still use this and try to restore the pots.

Any pots you were to get from OTHER than the original manufacture would likely have to have the shafts cut off.

Posted on Mar 16, 2011

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  • w_molenaar Mar 16, 2011

    Thanks a lot for your reaction.
    I'm afraid I need new pots...

  • Fred Yearian Mar 16, 2011

    Unless the shafts are real wobbly the pots can probably be restored... I would try. I have restored quite a few as long as the resistance element hasn't been fractured. The pots should have the value marked on the side along with a letter A,B,C or G indicating the taper. I have restored ones that the back cover has been punched off due to blow on the shaft even.

    After searching 6 suppliers and finding nothing matching the 2.5K log or audio taper, it appears that your only source would be the original guitar manufacture. That low a resistance is USUALLY not found in an audio or log taper.

  • w_molenaar Mar 17, 2011

    Thank you for your trouble! I've mailed Epiphone/Gibson already, asking for replacement pots.
    I will send your suggestions to my guitar repairer. Thanks again.

  • Fred Yearian Mar 17, 2011

    In doing some reseaarch, I am worried the guitar tech you have MAY be misreading the resistance value on the pots... I think they MAY be labeled A500K which are audio taper
    500 K pots not 2.5K pots. Epiphone Gibson wil send you the right ones, but be aware that your tech may be misreading the number. If so, you need to find a competent tech as he is not familiar with the part marking.

  • w_molenaar Mar 18, 2011

    Thank you for your reaction. The guitar tech is aware of the correct value. The only trouble is getting the right potmeters...

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Loud crackling on several pots


Sounds like your pots are dirty. You need to spray a cleaner such as Deoxit in the pots then rotate them a few times..This has to be done with the power off and the amp unplugged from the wall...Remove the knobs, get some food grade plastic hose which will be a snug fit when shoved on over the shafts of the pots...make sure to cut a piece off the hose about one inch in length...spray the cleaner into the hose and then with the hose still shoved down over the shafts rotate the shafts back and forth a few times...Then power up the amp and recheck...This will only work if the pots are not gone beyond the point of no return..Outside of that, they will need to be replaced which means you will have to disassemble the unit...

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The VR96 is a 50K "G" taper or "graphic taper" pot. Lots of luck trying to find that in a catalog... I finally got a scrapped piece of mixer board and salvaged one. The G taper is not stocked by any of the vendors like Digikey or Mouser here. Full Compass is the Behringer part distributor and I waited 6 months and got no delivery of one of these pots. The effects selector is a rotary encoder quadrature type. Use the Mouser.com catalog. Search for Encoder, then select ALPS manufacturer and then try to match up mounting and type using the spec drawings... with push switch also... Again, if you want to try Full Compass, you can call Behringer rep in Woodinville WA USA to get the Behringer part number and incident number to see if Full Compass might have one in stock.

Here is the maintenance schematics for your unit...VR96 is on page 7 of 32. :

http://elektrotanya.com/behringer_ub2442fx-pro_sm.pdf/download.html

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Note, You may have to cut off a shaft on replacement to the right length to match existing shaft.


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For those who still suffer from crackling potmeter in DigiDesign 003: Well, this potmeter is not the top of the line.
I made weeks of researches to repair my friend's DigiDesign003 crackling headphone+mainvolume potentiometers. We decided to find replacement-parts which is much cheaper than the $10 assumed here above. Here's the significant part of what I found (posted at avid forum as well):

I attached an Excel-datasheet-screenhot which contains all the possible candidates, however I couldn't find some of the potentiometers at distributors, USA people may have better luck to find the most fitting one. Fortunately BI Technologies in UK produces a rotary audio-potmeter line which fits the 14mm dimensions of the Digi003 built-in potentiometers. (Our local distributors could only acquire a similar to similar P140KH1-20AR20K from BI Technologies, it needed a little bit of tweaking, rasping, but it now operates fine and is durable - 30000 turns - on paper .)

The extracted info of the Excel, the most fitting models (datasheets help to find correct/closest part-number):
-BI Technologies(UK) P140KH-F25AR20K (confirmed to exist by BI contact but distributors haven't ordered this yet, needs 9 weeks of shipping if you manage to order it. Above I mention, BI P140KH1-20AR20K is proven to work and BI potmeters bear 30000 turns, 2 times more than other brands.)
-Bourns(USA) PTV142B40Y025AA203 (unfortunately DigiKey and Bourns told it's obsolete)
-Noble(USA) XV014112GPV-25F-15A20K (seems very similar to the original DigiDesign003 potmeter. I have no info, how to order. Maybe directly from manufacturer.)
-Alpha(USA) 3RP/1416G-CD1-D20K (probably orderable from Alpha directly by using their web-interface to assemble part-number.)
-Alpha(Taiwan) RV142F-40-25A-A20K ? (datasheet/xls may help with correct partnumber)
-Alps(Japan) RK14K12C0A0T (its value is 50kOhm, not the best replacement-candidate)

Distributors I found (in approximate order from biggest to smallest):
USA: Arrow, DigiKey, Mouser (shipping outside USA costs around $60)
Europe: Farnell/Newark, RS-online, Distrelec, Conrad, Allied, TME

Some last observations, advices to select correct part:
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-these 14mm dual 'audio' potmeters seem to have the same 'standard' pinout, but 'tone' (bass/treble) potmeters has a bit difference: common point is separated to 1st and 2nd leg. We simply cut the end of 1st leg to be short (not to reach PCB) and solder it to 2nd leg (see 1st photo), and it seemed to be perfect 'audio' potmeter substitute in our case. Check out datasheets or my excel for pinout-details.
-the shaft/rod of the potmeter should be 'flat' type with cca. 6mm diameter, 4.5mm flatted-part thickness and 12mm flatted-part length.
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Good luck, if you decide to acquire and replace the potmeter for yourself... For non-technical people I advise to ask someone skilled in soldering because it's hard to desolder the original potentiometers from the Digi003's 2-sided panel... Soldering flux comes handy to lower the melting temperature of tin. Flux can be cleaned with acetone after soldering the new pots in.

It would be useful if you might post any results here if you used any of the pots above... b5f78999-5206-4219-9814-477b70eebbeb.jpg 05f5d0a8-417c-4c1a-973e-8ee7446a4b8b.jpg 50160b02-6f81-445f-9440-9af226813a2d.jpg d717e64c-ad09-4bcf-ba04-6d1e61359d94.jpg 41b20c96-c0b8-462e-9e58-edc6c94e0b10.jpg

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