Question about Whirlpool Refrigerators
The evaporator coils frost up in normal use and every eight hours or so
the entire unit shuts down and the defrost heater comes on to melt the
frost. This cycle last about 20 minutes. The melted frost drips into a
drain pan and through a drain tube to the drain tray under the
freezer/refrigerator where it's evaporated by the condenser fan.
Your drain tube may be stopped up with ice at the upper end because it drains too slow because it's stopped up at the lower end in the evaporator pan under the unit at the floor. It can get dust and mold in it. Once you get the ice out at the top a little pressure with a turkey baster will usually clear it out. Flushing it out with hot water and clorox may help.
Make sure it drains quick enough to prevent refreezing. . The drain should be located below the evaporator coils on the inside of the freezer at the bottom of the rear cover.
The evaporator coil behind the cover on the back wall inside the freezer will ice up under normal conditions. Every 8 to 10 hours for around 20 minutes the defrost timer (or in most newer models the electronic adaptive defrost control) will turn the defrost heater on to melt the built up ice. There is a defrost thermostat which prevents the heater from overheating the freezer by breaking the heater circuit when the temp reaches close to 32 degrees F. The entire cooling system shuts off during the defrost cycle and starts back when the timer advances through the cycle.
If this ice is not melted it will continue to build up until the air can't flow over the coil to circulate the cold air through the freezer and into the fridge. The temperature change in the fridge is usually noticed first followed by the freezer.
If the defrost thermostat is bad, it can prevent the heater from coming on OR it won't turn the heater off when it gets too warm. It is clamped to the evaporator coil at the top to sense the temp. If it appears to be misshapen it is bad.
With an ohm meter it should show continuity when cold and none when warm.
You can also bypass(disconnect the two wires plugged into it and twist them together) the thermostat to see if the heater comes on then. If it does then you know the thermostat is bad and needs replaced.
The defrost heater is located on the evaporator. It is in a tube which is at the bottom and can also go up the sides of the evaporator. On some types you can see a burnt spot if it's bad. With an ohm meter it should show continuity from end to end when disconnected from the wiring in the freezer. You can also test the wiring for voltage when it's in the defrost mode.
If you have a defrost timer you can test it. It can be located under the fridge behind the kick panel on the front. Some are in the fridge with the controls at the top. You can turn the defrost timer till it clicks and everything shuts down. The heater should now come on. If it does, replace the timer because that means the timer is not running. If it doesn't, check the heater and defrost thermostat. Turn the timer again till everything starts back up to end the defrost cycle.
If you have an adaptive defrost control instead of a timer, replace it if the heater and thermostat test good. It is located in the fridge with the controls in some models and on the back in others.
Posted on Mar 20, 2011
Sound like the Defrost Drain Line is clogged / kinked. Stated you need to start with the defrost drain. You should be able to
pour water down it freely. If it drains really slow or not at all then
your will need to continue flushing it until it will. Also, check in the
back to ensure the tube isn't kinked.
This tube funnels water from the freezer (condensation, or water from
the defrost) down onto the tray holding the compressor where it
evaporates with help from the heat off the compressor. Sometimes this
tube can get plugged up with some scum or mineral deposits, causing the
built up water to drain from inside the fridge.
The repair that was most likely the compressor start relay which shouldn't have had anything to do with your draining issue but strange things happen sometimes.The fact that the fridge is getting to cold could be from an air damper issue (if applicable) or the cold control could be going out.
Keep us updated.
Posted on Mar 17, 2011
What yall have is a clogged drain. Very common. The defrost water is supposed to be removed through a drain hole below the evaporation coils. This hole gets junk in it and ceases to allow liquid to flow down to either a catch pan above the compressor or a removable tray behind the kick plate.
What yall gotta do is clear out that drain hole and all will be propah once moah.
I have some service manual for ice box's HERE
Posted on Mar 16, 2011
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
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