Question about Cooper Wiring Devices Combination Switch & Receptacle

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I'm wanting to install a combination outlet/switch device. Both will work off the same circuit but be independent of each other. I want the light to work from the switch, with the outlet constantly hot. The diagram in the box is confusing. How do I wire this?

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How many sets of wires are coming into the box?
If the box is in the middle of the circuit you will have a power-source black & white wire coming in and a power-source black & white wire going out. And in this case for the switch - there must be a black and a white wire going to a light.

Typically with a switch/outlet combination all the white wires will splice together with a white pig-tail wire to feed the neutral side of the device. The two black wires from the power-source will splice together with a black pig-tail and feed the hot-side of the device. The black wire going to the light will go on one side of the switch.

Looking at outlet/switch device from the front the large slot side of the outlet will be the neutral side and the smaller outlet slot will be the hot side. The neutral side screws will be steel colored and the hot side screws will be brass colored. The white wires will go to the neutral side steel colored screws, and the black wires will go on the hot side brass colored screws on the outlet.

The black wire comig into the box from the light is called a switchleg and goes to a brass screw on one side of the switch. The brass screw on the otherside of the switch will be for the black wire coming from the power-source.

Hope this helps - and please:

TURN THE BREAKER OFF BEFORE YOU START WORKING WITH THE WIRES!

Posted on Mar 16, 2011

Testimonial: "Solution was well-written, very understandable for a novice. Instructions and diagram given with the Cooper device wasn't nearly as good as this. "

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Switch /comb gets hot in wall


This is fire hazard.
Call electrician.

What is plugged into outlet?
Are wire and breaker sized correctly?
Do you have aluminum wire?
http://waterheatertimer.org/Color-codewire.html

Otherwise turn off circuit breaker, pull out device and inspect for melted wires.
Use nose to find source of heat and burning.
Inspect if you have aluminum wire. Do not use aluminum wire.
Aluminum wire will burn down your house today.
Use only copper wire.
Replace combination device with new.
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-wire-combination-switch-outlet.html

Apr 17, 2013 | Pass & Seymour #691CC6 Comb...

1 Answer

How you install a light and plug in in one switch


1) Copy following link for wiring combo device:
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-wire-switches.html#combo2

2) Neutral wire is required for outlet to work.

3) Outlet will be ON all the time.
Some combo devices can be wired so that switch controls outlet, but other models cannot be wired so switch controls outlet.
Look for break-away fin located between dark screws on combo device. If device has break-away fin, then switch can control outlet.

Feb 21, 2013 | Leviton 8299 Combination Switch / Smart...

1 Answer

Okay, I have the same problem... It is a cooper combination switch. There are two black wires that are coming out of the back . the instructions don't mention them at all. I am installing a new outlet...


Ok you have GFCI combination switch-plug.

Wires coming out of back of device are connected to "Load" wires.
Load are the black and white wires that go to fan, light, motor.

The black and white wires coming from circuit breaker connect to terminals marked "Line"
Look at back of device for markings.
Black wire from breaker goes to brass screw, white wire goes to silver screw.

There is one more set of screws on device. Device usually arrives with tape over these two screws.
This is what those screws are for: If you are working in a junction box, then three cables enter box.
One cable is for Line wires from breaker box.
Second cable goes to Load (light-fan-motor) that is controlled by switch.
Third cable goes forward to another switch or outlet >> and those wires connect to last set of screws on combo device. Black to brass and white to silver.

Add a comment for more free help.
Also take advantage of fixya expert assistance live.
For a price, expert works with you via e-mail while you work on circuit or any do-it-yourself project.
Fixya is always less expensive than a service call.

Feb 13, 2011 | Cooper Industries Cooper Wiring 274W...

1 Answer

I have an outlet that I want to convert to a light switch and an outlet on the T5625. I can not get the light switch to work. I have a Black hot and neutral with a grond. how do I hook up ht light portion?


Electrical devices have color-coded screws.

Electricians don't guess, they test.
You have tested the wires.

1) Combo switch-outlet device screws are dark - brass - silver - green
Hot to dark
Neutral to silver
Load wire (wire that goes to light, fan, motor) to brass
Bare ground to green screw

2) If you want switch to control the outlet on the combo device.
-Device must have 2 dark screws
-Look at dark screws, there is a break-away fin that connects dark screws.
-Remove break-away fin.
--Now there is one dark screw for the switch part of device, and one dark screw for outlet part.
-Connect Hot to dark-for-switch.
-Run jumper wire from brass screw to dark-for-outlet.
-Neutral to silver
-Switch on combo device will operate outlet on combo device

Add a comment for more free help.
Also take advantage of fixya phone service.
For a price, expert speaks with you over phone while you work on wiring or any do-it-yourself project.
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Jan 16, 2011 | Leviton Decora Combination Switch - 5625-I...

1 Answer

I have a black/white/ground wire coming from my power supply into my bathroom. I want to install a 274w combination device so as I can have one plug outlet and a switch for the shower fan.I need to see a...


1) In this situation we need to test the wires.
Electricians don't guess, they test, and a diagram would be guessing which wire color does what.

2) FYI: non-GFCI receptacle located in bathroom is not code, and device will have to be replaced when property is sold. The reason for GFCI is the likelihood of you holding defective electrical gizmo from China in one hand while putting other hand in running water. Or electrical gizmo falling into bathtub occupied by wife with large life insurance policy.
If you have kids using that bathroom, I want you to avoid using non-GFCI device.

3) Your new device has color-coded screws: Dark, brass, and silver.
These colors tell electrician how to wire the device.

4) Let's test to see which wire connects to which screw:
Separate wires.
Use ordinary 2-wire tester from hardware store.
Tape tester leads to wood sticks so hands are away from power.
Turn power ON.
Test each wire to bare ground wire.
Tester lights up on Hot wire. Hot wire connects to dark-colored screw on device.
Hot wire is identified.
Test Hot wire to all other wires in box, except bare ground wire.
Tester lights up on Neutral wire. Neutral wire connects to silver screw, and will complete circuit to receptacle.
If box does not have a Neutral wire, the circuit to receptacle can be completed using ground wire on silver screw, but I am not recommending that.
Last wire goes to Load (light, fan, motor). Load wire connects to brass screw, and will complete circuit to Load.

Add a comment for more free help.
Also take advantage of fixyas phone service.
For a price, fixya expert speaks with you over phone while you work on electrical device.

Leviton and Lutron both make GFCI switch-outlet combo.
Buy at Home Center or on-line
Leviton 7299
http://www.amazon.com/Leviton-7299-NI-15-Amp-125-Volt-Combination/dp/B000UJADW6
geno_3245.jpeg

Jan 02, 2011 | Cooper Industries Cooper Wiring 274W...

1 Answer

I want to install switches in a bathroom. I want switches for the fan, ceiling light and mirror light in series


If you want to have the switches wired in series, you will have to run wires to and from the switches to every device and have to have multiple things on to turn on the devices. It is not practical to wire in series. Say the ceiling light is the first switch in the series and the vanity is the third. You have to turn on the ceiling light and the fan just to turn on the vanity. It does not make sense. It is far more practical to wire the switches in parallel with each switch and device having their own switch leg. You can turn anything on and off independent of the others AND save a substantial amount of wire opposed to series, wich would require your wiring to go to and from the switches three times (SIX runs!).

Nov 16, 2009 | General Electric GE ELECTRICAL TQD22200X2...

1 Answer

New Single Feed switch/outlet not working


Hi there, first what is your porous for the device? Do you want the switch to feed the outlet or do you want the switch to be independent? (switch feed outlet)---- black feed to gold screw on switch. then from lower screw on same side to outlet (this should be black also)> remembering to tie neutrals with wire nut in rear with pig tale to switch. hope this helps.

Mar 21, 2009 | Electrical Supplies

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