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I have a zanussi ZSF2440 dishwasher, when it turned on by the power button on the front you can choose a cycle and start it, Once the cycle is started it fills up with water but doesn't stop until it over flows setting off the flood protection, which cuts the power, so all the lights on the display go off and stops the water flow and drains the dishwasher and keeps draining the dish washer while the flood protection is on. It seems as if the dishwasher doesn't know when its reached its correct water level for operation and over fills.

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

silly girl
  • 513 Answers

SOURCE: Bosch Dishwaher shy56a

Certainly sounds like the float is stuck in the over filled position or possible a bad float switch. Could also be a bad water fill valve - if you can blow air through it when removed then you need to replace it. You can follow this link to troubleshoot your washer, but note that its not exactly for your model - http://www.thermador.com/replacementparts/main/pdfs/SHU-complete-troubleshooting-guide.pdf Good luck!

Posted on Mar 26, 2006

SOURCE: Zanussi ZDT6252 stops 1min into cycle

You need to reset the computer on the bottom. Had the same problem with mine. The Blinking led means the heating element is bad and will not operate.

Posted on Jun 05, 2008

  • 116 Answers

SOURCE: siemens hydrosensor dishwasher SE25A091GB/22

Paul

If you are still trying to sort out this issue try the following.

From what you say then it is most likely the aqua sensor on the side of the dishwasher. The gurgling sounds that you hear are likely the drain pump running and the un-drainable water sloshing in the sump.

Verify that there is actually water going to the dishwasher( Basic step but often overlooked)

Next the inlet valve will have to be checked. This is the part where the water line from the house connects to the dishwasher, under the toe/kick panel. Remove power from the dishwasher. Disconnect the dishwasher electrical connections (2 wires) to the inlet valve and connect it (carefully to 110 V power) using a jumper wire. With 110V power the valve should open and water will flow into the dishwasher, if not then the fault is in the inlet valve.

If this checks fine then the fault is likely in the aqua sensor...

On the outer left side (viewed from front) there is a panel, Behind this panel there is a small clear(of light blue) plastic mechanism with hoses and wires attached( There is usually a yellow disk at the top about 6cm in diameter) this is a float and sensor assembly there is tells the control the water level and works as an emergency drain if there is an issue. There will be a red stick protruding downward to the base and a Styrofoam float on which the stick rests. This is a pan overflow sensor if the stick is too high the unit will go into drain and cut off the fill valve power. The yellow disk is a diaphragm which senses water height. This unit can become stuck with wear and hard water.

Posted on Jul 28, 2008

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: noisy dishwasher

i have aloud buzzing nose and humming what is the problem

Posted on Nov 26, 2008

vector006
  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: Cycle starts then stops and Intake/Drain light comes on

Hey All.

I had the same problem with my Miele g843, and i finally got to the root problem.

My machine would drain ok, and fill ok, but when it tried to start a cycle, it would do nothing. I could hear a relay occassionally clicking until it finally gave up and signalled the blinking red light of death.

I first checked the inlet filter, drain pump and drain pipe but I discovered no obstructions. So I started taking the dishwasher apart, and discovered that the main pump was seized! This may not be the source of YOUR problem, since it could be many things, but this worked for me. Here are the instructions to remove the pump and get it moving again:

Pull out the dishwasher and disconnect the power, water and drain lines.
Empty all water from the unit (disconnect drain line and let the water drain into a low profile container) you may have to elevate the unit and tilt it rearwards to get the remaining water out.
Remove the side panels of the machine.
Lay the unit on its side elevated about 2-4 inches above the ground (be careful you don't put direct pressure on any of the internal components when you support it)
Remove the 4 screws that hold the base panel to the frame of the machine.
You can now see the motor.
Disconnect the electrical connections to the motor and the pressure sensor.
Disengage the clamps that hold the rubber hoses to the motor and slide the hoses off the motor.
Unscrew the single bolt that holds the motor inplace on the back panel of the machine. Pry the rear panel out slightly to release the dowel pins and gently pull the motor towards you (pivoting on the inlet grommet). Once you have the motor out, you can try to manually turn it by rotating the impeller. If it is stiff, you could have the same problem mine had. Using silicon spray with a nozzle extension, spray the seal between the impeller housing and the motor and continue to spin the motor manually until it becomes free spinning. If this doesnt work for you, you may need a new motor ( i never priced one out but it cant be cheap ).

If you get stuck somewhere email me and i can send you pictures: vector006 at hotmail dot com

Cheers!




Posted on Mar 01, 2009

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