Question about Dishwashers
As the manual says:
If water remains inside the
the drain hose is not kinked.
the drain syphon is not
the dishwasher filters are not
i also add a link to this manual, hope it will help
Hotpoint BFI 680 User Manual Page 13 of 20
Posted on May 23, 2017
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
If you are still trying to sort out this issue try the following.
From what you say then it is most likely the aqua sensor on the side of the dishwasher. The gurgling sounds that you hear are likely the drain pump running and the un-drainable water sloshing in the sump.
Verify that there is actually water going to the dishwasher( Basic step but often overlooked)
Next the inlet valve will have to be checked. This is the part where the water line from the house connects to the dishwasher, under the toe/kick panel. Remove power from the dishwasher. Disconnect the dishwasher electrical connections (2 wires) to the inlet valve and connect it (carefully to 110 V power) using a jumper wire. With 110V power the valve should open and water will flow into the dishwasher, if not then the fault is in the inlet valve.
If this checks fine then the fault is likely in the aqua sensor...
On the outer left side (viewed from front) there is a panel, Behind this panel there is a small clear(of light blue) plastic mechanism with hoses and wires attached( There is usually a yellow disk at the top about 6cm in diameter) this is a float and sensor assembly there is tells the control the water level and works as an emergency drain if there is an issue. There will be a red stick protruding downward to the base and a Styrofoam float on which the stick rests. This is a pan overflow sensor if the stick is too high the unit will go into drain and cut off the fill valve power. The yellow disk is a diaphragm which senses water height. This unit can become stuck with wear and hard water.
Posted on Jul 28, 2008
OK Bosch Dw fans.........here is the fix if your SHX dishwasher is stuck on the drain cycle. This may save you a couple hundred bucks.......so listen up. There is a tendency for the very small float switch to STICK in the ON position, which will cause the drain motor to continuously run......and DISallow any other function to work. DISCONNECT POWER. Did I mention to disconnect power? Take off the front base cover....2 torx screws. Remove the other 2 torx screws in the metal clips that fasten the top of the DW to the underside of your countertop. NOW...carefull slide your DW out. You may have to disconnect your water and elec supply if you do not have enough slack to pull it out. Once the DW is out of the cabinet, remove the shiny metal cover on the LEFT side by removing a single torx screw. You will now see a small plastic assembly with a red plastic piece that moves up and down as it rides on a small red styrofoam float. This up and down movement engages a small white plastic switch visible with 3 wires coming out of it. You can carefully UNSNAP this switch out of its mount, and pull the 3 wire plug off of it. THere is a small square blue plastic tab that is supposed to easily slide in and out of the switch. If it is stuck IN, you can sometimes tap the switch and the blue tab will pop out, which is what it is supposed to do without tapping it. You can carefully with a knife blade separate the case on this switch and note the way it comes apart. Clean out any micro debris out of the small channels that the blue tab ride up and down in. Then set it in the channel while holding up the small switch tab that rides on it and see if it slides up and down without sticking! I like to take a piece of wax paper and rub in on the channel and blue tap to provide some lube for the switch to slide easily on. Now, put the switch back on and manually move the red plastic assembly up and down while you are watching the blue tab. The tab should ride up and down with the red assy. If not, buy a new switch. Google the # on the switch and order one. If the tab slides up and down, put things together in reverse order and give it a try. Hope it works for you. This should take you an hour give or take. Take the $200 you just saved and have a night out on me. ........so even though these German Appliances have a good name because of past reliability, the american tendency to value engineer them with plastic parts to reduce costs and increase profit.........just cost you an hour of your time. Will we ever learn.? ......if it ain't broke, value engineer it until it only lasts through the warranty period so you can then collect service and parts blood money from your fellow american.
Posted on Jan 11, 2009
If your thinking air in the water supply line, air won't be the cause. I would look to make sure there is not mineral buildup inside the valve, and that the valve is good.
Turn the water off, disconnect the line at the water valve, then carefully tirn the water abck on to make sure there is good flow from the water supply line. If there is, then look toward the dishwasher side. If not, look toward the water supply side.
Posted on Jan 24, 2009
SOURCE: A screw fell inside the
try this. I have a similar problem and now have the LE code flashing. I saw this advice and am going to try the fix now.
You are barking up the wrong tree. Here is the real fix for the LE problem.First disconnect all power ( power supply, circuit breaker, wiring etc) to the machine. Disconnect all tubing to the machine ( drainage pipe and braided hose feed) Then you need to take out the dishwasher, turn it over and then remove the large white sensor tray that will expose the leakage sensor held on by 2 screws. Remove the screws and dry up the sensor tips (4) with a dry towel and dry up the tray all around as well. Replace the tray and re connect all tubing and power. You're problem should be solved and you just saved yourself a pile of money in service repair bill. M.D.
Posted on Jan 02, 2011
This is caused by having a dryer element, if you are able to get to the back of the element look for where the wires connect to it, I am almost positive the element is bad, always turn off the power when looking at any electrical unit to service , if not sure use a tester, you should have zero volts at the connection box near lower right hand side near floor. you can get this element from here if you have all the information on this unit, http://www.appliancepartspros.com/ you can also email me at firstname.lastname@example.org good luck
Posted on Jul 26, 2011
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