Question about Proform Crosswalk 500 Treadmill
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Treadmill is more than likely in metric. Most mill (if in english measurement) will start out at .5 metric usually star at .8 Not sure how to change for treadmill but it should be in the manual.
Posted on Jul 27, 2009
More likely time to replace the belt. Let me provide you with all the information you need. This information is already there on many websites.
BELT LOSES POWER
(Bogs Down or is Sluggish) This condition is when the treadmill operates normally without a person on the belt and then slows down when someone steps on the belt or when the treadmill operates normally for a given period of time with someone on the belt then abruptly begins to slow down.
There are four typical causes for this problem (listed in order of our experience:
1) The walking belt and/or deck are worn. (85% of the time)
2) The walking belt and/or motor belt are too tight- if you have adjusted either recently. (8% of the time)
3) The motor has lost torque and needs brushes or has demagnetized. (5% of the time)
4) The controller is dropping output. (2% of the time)
Walking Belt is Worn:
The only certain way to test for a worn walking belt is to take a DC amp draw (if you have a DC treadmill) or an AC draw (for AC). Trying to look at the belt or a feel test is highly unreliable. Better tests, if you lack a DC ammeter (they are expensive for a good one), are a coast test or an incline test. To test the deck, go back to the Troubleshooting section and download the belt and deck inspections instructions. The coast test is to get on the treadmill as the lowest incline setting and walk on the treadmill at 3 MPH. Pull the safety key and it should take you 2-3 full steps to stop (this is a general rule…some like a few Tunturi models stop on a dime even with a healthy belt but most this tests works well upon). Fewer steps indicate high friction.
The incline test is to put the treadmill at max incline and walk on it at 3 MPH. If the treadmill operates normally at max incline but bogs down at minimum incline, replace the walking belt. Gravity takes over for the drive system eliminating the friction problem. On some heavily worn walking belts, this test will not eliminate the problem.
Walking Belt/Motor Belt too Tight:
If you have adjusted the walking belt or motor belt recently, check for this problem. When the belts start slipping, some people just crank down the belts and on treadmills, tighter is not necessarily better. The
tighter the belts, the more the drive system has to work to keep everything moving. You should be able to lift the walking belt (with the treadmill unplugged) in the center of the treadmill about 3” without straining. Tighter belts should be loosen but make sure you don’t create a dangerous slipping situation by loosening.
The motor belt (with the treadmill unplugged) should be able to be turned by hand to almost a 90 degree angle from its normal operating position. Loosen the belt if too tight. Make sure to test for slipping and if it does with the proper tension, replace the motor belt.
Needs Brushes / Demagnetized Motor:
Typically when we find a motor that has lost torque; it needs a new set of motor brushes. Typically we can make brushes for almost any motor if we don’t already stock them. Motor demagnetization is not that common but it does happen and it is normally easy to diagnose. If you have confirmed the belt and/or deck is not worn and the belts aren’t too tight, you can test for a motor torque problem. DO NOT USE YOUR HAND OR ANY OTHER BODY PART TO IMPEDE THE MOTOR…YOU WILL LIKELY LOSE YOUR BODY PART IN THE PROCESS IF THE MOTOR IS GOOD. The step to test for the motor is to use a foreign object preferably on a long shaft. First determine the direction of the motor spin (most have directional movement printed on the motor tag), then apply pressure with an object with downward pressure on the flywheel in the direction the flywheel is turning (do not attempt to put force against the rotating direction of the flywheel as you can easily injure yourself). If you can slow the motor, typically you need brush replacement.
To test for demagnetization, the motor must be disassembled. Once you have the motor retaining bolts removed, remove the motor core by sliding it out of the end of the housing. If the magnets pull the core against the housing and it is difficult to remove, the magnets are good. If the magnets do not attract the core, the motor has to be replaced.
This is the most uncommon of the causes. Typically replacing a controller in this situation will not solve the underlying problem and then you will end up replacing a belt as well as a control. Normally if a control is dropping output, it will do it with a person on the belt or not. Tests of DC output dropping is normal in many controls since they have a current limiter which will automatically drop output to prevent burning up the board. This is best diagnosed by eliminating the other possible problems first. If you are left with the control as the cause, replace the control.
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Posted on Oct 10, 2009
Be extremely careful when trying to trim a belt. Understand that many hazards exist when performing these steps that can result in serious injury. If you have any question whether you can perform these steps or not, please call a professional and do NOT attempt this repair.
There are two methods that can be used to trim a walking belt when it has developed a tattered edge:
1) Remove the belt from the treadmill for trimming.
a) All walking belts are cut at some point during their life, whether in manufacturing or later during service, so this will not compromise the integrity of the belt as long as you cut a straight line and do not leave a rough edge.
b) Remove the walking belt from the treadmill, lay the belt flat and even on the ground, and measure and equal distance on each end of the belt and mark the belt for cutting on each end of the belt. Cut no more than necessary to restore a smooth edge.
c) Use a piece of flat steel or other metal object that is straight and long enough and connect the two markings on the belt with the metal object.
d) Using a new razor knife, box knife, or similar instrument, cut the belt along the steel object. If the knife has a new edge, you should cut through the belt in one or two passes of the knife.
e) Check the belt for a smooth edge and reinstall the belt.
2) Cut the belt while it is mounted on the treadmill. This method should only be considered by those who are familiar with treadmills and very good with tools. This can be a dangerous process.
a) Track or center the belt off center to the opposite side of the tattered edge (i.e.- if the belt is tattered on the right side, track the belt off centered to the left side by about 1/2 to 3/4").
b) Operate the treadmill at a very slow speed. Usually 1.0 or 1.5 MPH will be sufficient.
c) Using both hands, line a new razor knife up on the tattered side of the belt. Make sure to cut no more than necessary to make a smooth edge.
d) With the belt moving and using both hands, lift the knife up and contact the belt making sure to hold the knife steady and keeping your hands and clothing as free from the moving roller as possible. You will not damage the roller to the point where it will hurt the operation of the treadmill.
e) Do not lower the knife until you see the belt separate from the tattered edge. Once this happens, turn the treadmill off, unplug the treadmill, and cut the tattered strip off the treadmill.
f) Track or center the belt and operate normally.
Posted on Feb 21, 2010
Testimonial: "A great solution & I am going to keep it ready. Using a previous idea, I glued it with Loctite Ultra Gel-a super glue for rubber. So far, so good."
Walking Belt is Worn:
The only certain way to test for a worn walking belt is to take a DC amp draw (if you have a DC treadmill) or an AC draw (for AC). Trying to look at the belt or a feel test is highly unreliable. Better tests, if you lack a DC ammeter (they are expensive for a good one), are a coast test or an incline test.
The coast test is to get on the treadmill as the lowest incline setting and walk on the treadmill at 3 MPH. Pull the safety key and it should
take you 2-3 full steps to stop (this is a general rule…some like a few Tunturi models stop on a dime even with a healthy belt but for most models, this tests works well upon).
Fewer steps indicate high friction.
The incline test is to put the treadmill at max incline and walk on it at 3 MPH. If the treadmill operates normally at max incline but bogs down at minimum incline, replace the walking belt. Gravity takes over for the drive system eliminating much of the friction problem. On some heavily worn walking belts, this test will not eliminate the problem.
Go to your local hard ware store and purchase silicone spray. Apply Lubricant by lift one side of the running belt spray contents length wise starting at motor shroud to the back end repeat this process on the other side. If this unit bogs down again then you will have replace the running belt and possibly the deck
Posted on May 31, 2010
Depending on the noise it could be one of several components failing.
If loud clanking or clunking noises these components are Drive Motor, Front or Rear Rollers.
If it is a loud humming noise increasing and decreasing when planting yours feet then it is either the Inductor ( square object ) or the internal windings of the Drive Motor.
Unplug your unit remove the motor shroud with a long shaft flat tip screw driver you'll be able to pin point the problem with this tool.
Now locate front shaft and rear roller tension adjusting bolt ( refer to owners Manual) plug in unit, start unit and touch flat tip on the shaft and place your ear on the handle the noise will be amplified and you will be able to locate the noise repeat this procedure on the other above mentioned components if problem is not found. GOOD LUCK!
Posted on Jul 31, 2010
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