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3 year old hot water heater no longer providing hot water at the hottest level.

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I am assuming this is electric. If the water heater is warm already, a quick test
is to turn off power at breaker, remove the two access covers and remove fiberglass
insulation. Turn one thermostat all the way up and one all the way down.
Have someone else turn on the breaker and listen carefully, you should hear one
element start to "cook" (the one that is set all the way up) Do this again with the
other element. If you hear both elements work then It may only be an upper
thermostat. But usually one element has a hairline crack where the body attaches
to the base. This method is the way you can check without an ammmeter. I usually
check the elements for current draw, they draw around 12 amps. Only one
element cycles at a time when heating Remember to shut off power before draining
and refill the tank completely with the hot taps open before restoring power.
Harbor freight carries an inexpensive snap around ammeter/voltmeter that works well.
Hope this is helpful.

Posted on Mar 15, 2011

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Please check your heaters elements for malfunction. Check also the relays for damaged.

Posted on Mar 15, 2011

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1 Answer

Squeeling sound and lower pressure from gas water heater


Probably the factory-installed heat trap nipples are clogged.
Open following links.
http://waterheatertimer.org/Low-hot-water-pressure.html
http://waterheatertimer.org/Low-hot-water-pressure.html#trap
Noisy whistling and humming and low pressure are common problem with heat trap nipples and inserts from factory.
Replace heat-trap nipples with pex-lined nipples, or remove heat trap inserts with screwdriver or needle nose... careful not to break insert so it falls into tank ... which can then get lodged in hot water line elbow or under-sink shut off.
Factory-installed heat traps are part of overall strategy so manufactures can claim more efficient water heaters, without requiring customers to any thinking.
Other strategies include foam insulation instead of fiberglass (so that wires cannot be replaced on electric units), reducing factory-set temperature from previous 130-135 to 100-120, and re-estimating downward the hot water use for average family.
So some of the strategies are useful, while others problematic or imaginary.
Call manufacturer to pay-for or provide new pex-line nipples. Warranty for fist year covers Labor and parts, and after 1st year, warranty covers parts
http://waterheatertimer.org/Water-heater-manufacturers.html
Save $10 a month in future replacement costs: maintain water heater so it lasts longer:
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-maintain-water-heater.html

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Gas water heater leaking


2 major leak areas. The first is theT&P valve. If it is leaking, you may be having problems keeping the heater hot enough for your hot water needs. Would need additional symtom(s).

If problem is water on the floor, it would be smart to purchase a new heater. Your water bill will be going higher as long as the leak is not dealt with. You will also be paying more for your natural gas because the heater will be running longer.

If your heater is 15 - 20 years old, i would definately buy a new one. We can help if you send model # and brand name.

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I have a gas Rheem hot water heater.....The flame appears to be on full blast, not just the pilot. I have run no hot water today, so we shouldn't be out of hot water. The water our of the hot faucet...


Sounds like you have cold water entering the hot pipe, or crossover.

(A) Put bucket under water heater overflow pipe, and stand back from scalding water. Gently open and close the TP relief valve on water heater. Check temperature of water to see if heater genuinely has hot water.
It could be the water heater has sediment build-up and is no longer able to heat the water, or the gas thermostat is bad.
http://waterheatertimer.org/Clean-sediment-out-of-water-heater.html
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-install-gas-water-heater.html

(B) If water heater has hot water, and hot is not getting to faucet, then you have a crossover problem somewhere.
1) This problem can be located at crossover point of a recirculation system, if re-circ check valve has failed.
http://waterheatertimer.org/Water-heater-recirculation-system.html

2) Failure of a single handle faucet cartridge can cause crossover.
Read how to test for crossover:
http://waterheatertimer.org/pdf/Crossover-on-single-handled-faucet.pdf

3) Other causes for crossover are a failed check valve elsewhere in the plumbing system, for example on the pool equipment. Also a failed mixing valve which is usually installed on top of the water heater so that some areas of the house like laundry room receive very hot water, while the kids bathroom receives lower temperature water.

Upvote the help.
And take advantage of fixya expert assistance live.
For a price, expert works with you while you work on water heater or any do-it-yourself project.
Fixya is always less expensive than a service call.

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I own a house with an electric GE hot water heater. 8ESOT12AA01 Serial # 090122 5750 I do not know how old the hot water heater is and advice about when it should be replaced. No leaks to date but I...


GE is made by Rheem, but the market is always changing. Rheem-based serial number shows tank was made in 1990.
Tank will last as long as anode rod(s) protects steel tank from rusting.
If your tank has two anode rods, then tanks lasts longer.
That's how companies determine if water heater is '6-year' or '12-year.'
I don't have manual for your product to say if you have 12 year tank. Side of tank might have information blurb besides mandatory label that shows serial number.
You can update your water heater by replacing anode rod(s) assuming they can be loosened and removed after this number of years, which is a big IF with old heaters. Your plumber might have impact wrench he uses to see if anode can come out.
http://waterheatertimer.org/Replace-anode-rod.html
http://waterheatertimer.org/Leaking-water-heater.html

If the water heater is making gurgling rumbling and/or crackling sounds then tank has sediment build-up.
You can also get a baseline of rust by flushing tank and watching if water is very rusty.
http://waterheatertimer.org/Clean-sediment-out-of-water-heater.html
http://waterheatertimer.org/Water-heater-will-not-drain.html

If you flush tank regularly, and inspect anode every 1-3 years, a tank will last many years longer than manufacturer's label.
http://waterheatertimer.org/Water-heater-manufacturers.html

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Water leaking observed from the bottom of the tank. What's the problem? Should I replace the old 21V40-2 unit? if so, what kind of tank is ok to replace the present unit? What's the price and installation...


If water heater is leaking, then open following 2 links to avoid tank rupture and troubleshoot leak:
http://waterheatertimer.org/Emergency-steps-for-leaking-water-heater.html
http://waterheatertimer.org/Water-heater-is-leaking.html

Open following link if you want to install your own gas water heater:
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-install-gas-water-heater.html

To have gas water heater installed, can run $2-300 for installation plus cost of heater.
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http://waterheatertimer.org/Replace-anode-rod.html
http://waterheatertimer.org/9-ways-to-save-with-water-heater.html

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foyeb

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