Welcome to FixYa
There was indeed a recall involving the control replacement nearly two years ago now if I recall.
As for checking into the present issue ( it doesn`t sound like anything to do with the control based on your description ) it sounds like the pump impeller may have become stuck. Did the dishwasher sit idle or in storage unused for a period of time ?
I have a service bulletin I could send you via email regarding remedying
that issue of stuck impeller if you contact me at firstname.lastname@example.org
I`d suggest you run the dishwasher through a diagnostic, but either procedure will require hooking it up.
To do this test/diagnostic on the SHU4322 series machine, it is as follows...
To start test program, press and hold both REGULAR WASH
and RINSE & HOLD
program buttons, then turn unit on by pressing ON/OFF
button. Initially, control module version # will be displayed (e.g./ "20" = version 0 without jumper).
When wash program buttons are released, lights above them will flash. To end test program, press ON/OFF
To check each program indicator light, press its button. To check Cycle Countdown display, Refill Rinse Agent light and REGULAR WASH
light, press REGULAR WASH
button (press Delay Start button to test Cycle Countdown display alone).
Cycle Countdown display will show "88" when REGULAR WASH
button is pressed and "8h" when Delay Start button is pressed.
To start testing, press both the REGULAR WASH
and RINSE & HOLD
buttons a second time.
When testing has ended, Cycle Countdown display will show a fault using codes below. If more than one fault occurs, code numbers will be added together, (e.g./ "6" = faults 2 + 4).
0 = No faults detected 2 = Heating fault 8 = NTC (temperature sensor) fault 1 = Aqua Sensor ("Sensotronic") fault 4 = Filling fault F = Filling fault (display occurs during wash, not test)
0 = No faults detected
1 = Aqua Sensor ("Sensotronic") fault
2 = Heating fault
4 = Filling fault
8 = NTC (temperature sensor) fault
F = Filling fault (display occurs during wash, not test)
To check for heater, high limit or flow switch problems, start testing until heating starts. Using a meter with a current coil, measure current going into dishwasher. If current is ~ 11 A, then heater, high limit and flow switch are OK. If current stays at ~ 1.5-2 A, then heater, high limit or flow switch are faulty.
If water level switch has failed (opened), display will show fault code "4" and unit will continually fill and drain where testing won't be completed. If flow switch has failed (opened), display will show "0", water won't heat (to 150?F) and water won't stop circulating. If NTC probe has failed (opened), display will show fault code "8" immediately and testing will end shortly after water has started circulating.
What needs to be done to solve the problem will depend on the results/findings of the dianostic, so let me know what you find and we can go from there.
Either way keep me in the loop and I`ll assist you the best I can. Thank you for choosing FixYa
and good luck.