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I have a GE Oven (JKP13GP/JKP14WP) and the oven only heats to about 45% of the temperature it is set for. I've checked the element for any signs of damage - none are detectable by sight or feel.

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

burzerko
  • 254 Answers

SOURCE: Pepper Oven overheats

This problem is caused by a faulty thermostat controller. This is the dial that you use to set the temperature for heating.

Posted on Jun 22, 2008

  • 190 Answers

SOURCE: Bosch oven not heating to temp

Dear customer,
i recommend u to try the following routine to sort out this problem

  • Check timer and clock settings
  • Reseat the element
  • Test the element
  • Test the element connectors
  • Test the oven temperature control
  • Test the oven selector control
  • Recalibrate the temperature control

  • hope u find this useful. thank you.

    Posted on Jul 09, 2008

    mreid542
    • 166 Answers

    SOURCE: GE double oven - bottem will not heat, top oven fine

    I ended up taking the control board out the the oven, took the board apart and found a loose connection (solder joint) on the bottom of one of the relays. resoldered the bad connection now the oven works fine.

    Posted on Nov 20, 2008

    Maytag317
    • 1136 Answers

    SOURCE: maytag electric oven - MER5770AAQ. lower heating element not work

    Hi, Unplug the oven and remove the element to test it. Check the element and see if there is continuity. If the element is open, replace it. It can be bad even tho it doesn't appear bad.

    I hope this helps you.

    Vic

    Posted on Jun 20, 2009

    • 3230 Answers

    SOURCE: GE JTP 1580W288 Set oven to Bake, switches to broil at bake temp

    The F2 Error code means the oven has detected an excess temperature condition. Most often this is due to a bad temperature sensor - the sensor costs about $75 from an online repair site. 
    How to remove and replace the temperature sensor. In most GE ovens, when you open the door, you'll see the rod-shaped temperature sensor sticking out of the back wall at the upper left. It's about six inches long and a bit more than 1/8" in diameter, held in place with two screws. 

    Turn off the circuit breaker (built-in ovens) or unplug the range before attempting the replacement. 

    The replacement sensor will come with instructions, but basically it's a matter of removing the sensor, pulling out the wires to where they are connected and disconnecting them. You may have to snip. The replacement sensor will come with high-temp wire nuts to hold the new connection. Polarity doesn't matter; it's a straight resistance thermocouple. Hook it up, be sure you poke the connections back far enough so that they're on the other side of the thermal insulation and not resting against the back of the oven. 

    If you continue getting the F2 error after replacing the sensor, then the problem is likely in the control module - this is the circuit board behind the keypad and clock. 

    You'll need to remove the decorative bezel to get behind the control panel. Remove screws and set off parts in order - it's not complicated. Once the bezel is off there are two more screws that hold the panel in place. Then you can lift the panel up about a half inch and pivot it forward toward you. You'll see a bunch of wires going to a circuit board. 

    On the panel you will notice some black plastic boxes that say "Potter & Brumfield" on them. These are relays. Check the relays - slide the black plastic cover straight up to expose the coil and the contacts. The coil, when energized, closes the contacts - look at all the relays. You can manually close the contacts with your finger (be gentle). If the contacts of one of them are stuck, they might be welded together. You can fix the problem by prying apart the welded contacts gently with a knife blade. Take some time to gently polish the relay contacts with a folded bit of fine grain sandpaper - this will get some more life out of them. Be gentle and careful - the relays aren't complicated but if you bend the contact or rip it out, you'll have to replace the controller, which will set you back a couple hundred dollars. If you unstick and burnish the relays, they will probably eventually weld together again as the rough spot will spark, but when you burnish them with sandpaper they should be good for some more life before they need to be replaced. 

    If the problem isn't the temp sensor or welded relay contacts then the problem is obviously somewhere else, but temp sensor and relay contacts will account for the lion's share of F2 errors. 

    Once again, be safe, be careful, be gentle. Ovens are not very complicated and they're tough, but always exercise care. Always disconnect electricity before messing with them.
    good luck,

    Posted on Jun 28, 2009

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    ALSO Test the Burner Heating Element
    The stove's burner heating element is a coil of metal sheathed in an insulator. Electrical current travels through the element. Resistance to the passing of electrical current causes the element to heat up. A precise temperature cannot be set for a burner, instead it is turned on and off repeatedly by the control to the achieve an average temperature. When it is set to a low temperature, the element is cycled on and off more frequently. For high temperatures, the heating element is energized longer with fewer on and off cycles. Some burners have two elements, with the second only being used only for high heat settings.
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