Question about GE WWSE5240G
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: washer overfilling
There are two reasons could cause washer's overfilling. - A defective water entrance valve - Water supply to the dishwasher is done through an electromagnet valve,loocated at the water pipe's enterance to the machine. A defect in the valve may mean that it's no longer able to shut off completely when the electricity has been turned off to it, and the valve may leak and drip water into the tub.You can easyly open the valve and clean it (from scale or other dirt). Be aware you should disconnect the power cable from the machine before doing it !!!!! and to close water main tap to the machine. In case cleaning doesn't help, you should replace the valve. - Water switch level - I am not familiar with this specific machine, but there are 2 types of level switches. 1)A diaphragm device with a small clear tube attached between the switch and the bottom of the washer's outer tub. 2)Floating switch that located inside the dishwasher's bottom and operate a switch. In case there is a floating switch in your dishwasher - check for its smooth movment and check as well the switch by a multi-meter (an on/off switch). Defective switch should be replaced. If level switch in your dishwasher is a diaphragm device - Open the rear panel, find the device and clear first any obstruction in the tube.In case it doesn't help, disconnect the wires from the unit (you should disconnect first machine's power cable !!!!!) and measure with a multi-meter on its tugs for continuity and disconnection while you are inhale and blow to its tube. In case it will not react, you should replace it. Good luck !!
Posted on Jul 02, 2006
is usually caused by a “stuck-open” fill valve, and the cold water
half of the valve is usually the culprit.
This can also be caused by the fill system control components: pressure switch, pressure tube, or pressure tube dome/port. So let’s take a look at these.
First of all, determine whether your overflow condition is mechanical or electrical. Start the washer filling, then turn the timer off by pushing the knob in. If the fill continues, pull the washer plug. If filling continues with the washer unplugged, you have a mechanical problem - nearly always a stuck valve ***’y. Replace the fill valve.
If however, the fill stops when you unplug the machine, you are looking at an electrical fill control problem, and it gets a little more complicated.
Here a small piece of rubber or plastic tubing is handy. Unplug the washer and open the console where you’ll see the pressure switch. This is the switch with a small rubber tube, usually clear, sometimes black, attached. Pull this tube off and replace it with your short tubing. Blow a bit of pressure into the switch using your mouth, and listen for a click, then another when you release the pressure. Hear two clicks? Good! The switch is probably OK, but we’re having fun, so let’s continue!
Plug the washer back in (being aware that components in the console are now hot)and start the washer filling again. With it filling, again blow a bit of pressure into the switch. If the switch is good, the fill should stop and the machine should start to agitate.
This verifies that the pressure switch is working, and causes us to suspect the pressure tubing or a clogged port/dome to which it connects. Wipe off the end of the original tube you removed from the switch, and blow into it. You’re blowing air down into the tank now, and you should feel very little restriction. If it is very hard or impossible to blow through this tube, the tank dome or port is clogged.
Older Maytags are known for this, and if you have one, spin out all water, remove the ‘Corbin’ clamp from the pressure tube outside of the tank and pull the tube off. (Pull washer front off – 2 Phillips screws at bottom, then two 3/8 in. hex screws release top, which swings upward) You will probably see ‘gunk’ clogging both the rubber tubing and the ‘spud’ that is a part of the tank. The hose ***'y can be taken to a sink and flushed clean with hot water, and an old toothbrush used to clear the tank spud, which, in the Maytags, is about 3/4 in. ID.
It is best cleaned from the inside, which means pulling the cabinet and tub. Not beyond the reach of the handyman, this job does require a special spanner wrench to remove the tub nut, as well as the removal of some other components. I’d probably recommend this one as a job for the pro. An experienced tech will have seen this before and be in and out in an hour or less.
The tank port on these washers is too small - only about 3/8 in. diameter, and hard to clean, even from the inside. Here’s yet another job for the trusty wetvac. We are hopeful that Whirlpool will soon enlarge or baffle these ports to correct this problem - one of very few ‘glitches’ these excellent machines have.
Whatever your brand, if air can’t be blown back through this tube, the port or dome will need cleaning.
If you have no trouble blowing pressure through it remove the tube completely and inspect it carefully. This tube must not have the smallest hole in it, and we sometimes see them worn through or, more often, chewed through by mice. I mention this last because, while it is the least common cause of overflow I see, it does happen and is easily overlooked. We run into this a couple of times each year, usually in the Fall when the mice are looking for a warm winter home.
Also uncommon, sometimes this tube will swell and loosen a bit, leaking air where it attaches to the tank fitting. If you suspect this, or the tube fits very loosely, simply cut 3/4” or so off the end and push it back on.
One last comment on this concerns some newer Frigidaire 27” (wide) machines. These use a piece of tape (!) to secure the pressure tube to the outside of the tank. This tape has to be there (don’t ask me how I know!) or the tube will pull off while spinning, causing flooding. If it has come off, or was removed for service, be sure to replace it. Duct tape will work well; just be sure to clean the tank before attaching to be sure it stays put. Naptha (lighter fluid) will do this well.
Hope this helps,
Posted on Sep 11, 2008
Cold water pipe had become frozen. FYI this model of washer has a nice feature whereas you can test each component i.e. valves, by setting the timer and reading the LED's on the front panel. Instructions are in the schematic.
Posted on Jan 19, 2009
Remove the plastic hose from the water level switch and blow through it until it flows freely.
If it does not clear this way. Remove the front panel.putty knife needed.
Remove the water level tube from the tub and clean out the gunk.
Reconnect it to the water level switch.
Set the machine to spin and run it.
Reset water level control and try your machine.
Posted on Feb 21, 2009
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