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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
If I understand you correctly this is what you have:
- A pump that draws water from a lake 300 feet from lake to your cabin (I assume the pump is at the cabin)
- The pump kicks on to maintain pressure in a tank that distributes water to faucets in the cabin. The pump only turns on to pressurize the tank when water is being used (I am assuming).
- When you turn on tap, pressure in the pressure tank drops to 30 psi, then you hear water sucking from the tank to tap and flow stops at tap. Then the pump finally kicks back on and pressures tank to 23 psi.
- The pump is not used regularly.
If water flow stops when the pressure tank is reading 25 psi, then likely the real pressure is 0 psi and pressure gauge is reading wrong. If this gauge is tied into a switch that starts and stops the pump, then this is probably your problem. You may have partial blockage in your pressure gauge/switch that is causing gauge to move too slowly to keep up with the actual pressure changes when water is being used. Ore the pressure gauge/switch may be broken. Pressure gauges are notorious for reading pressure when there is none. If you can unplug the pump and disconnect the pressure gauge/switch and check for blockage in the ports you should start there. You mentioned that this worked good for the last two summers, if if sits unused for long periods, it could promote bio-growth, rust and/or sediment in the connection to the pressure gauge. If you find blockage, remove it and flush it out. Reinstall the pressure gauge/switch and try it again.
One other possibility is clogged strainer(s) / filter(s) in the water lines. It would not hurt to pull and check/clean any strainers / filters in the system including before the pump. I would even check at the lake for a strainer where the water enters the suction line to the cabin.
I would not assume that the pump is the problem yet.
Hope this helps.
Posted on May 01, 2010
SOURCE: Pump no longer starts
It sounds like the float didn't come down because of dried debris on the rod,or the hinge where the lever goes up and down depending on how your pump works.check for water in the float,too...Hope this helps...1nglen
Posted on May 23, 2009
The pump might be binding against the motor, causing the pump to overheat and temporarilly "seize up" and shut the engine off.
After cooling down for a brief period (5~10 mins) the engine can usually be re-started, but the overheating problem will keep coming back.
This happens when the pump either wasn't seated against the engine properly during it's initial instalation, or the pump housing wasn't machined properly and the PTO shaft is trying to drive the pump at a slight angle = excessive friction = overheating.
1) Loosen the bolts that mount the pump to the engine just enough so that the pump can be wiggled slightly.
2) With the engine power switch in the "OFF" position, slowly pull the recoil starter rope so that the engine / pump completes about two revolutions. This helps to align the pump surface with the engine.
3) Lightly snug the pump mounting bolts in a criss-cross pattern, then slowly pull the recoil starter rope again to ensure that the pump isn't binding.
4) Finish tightening the pump mounting bolts in the criss-cross pattern (approx. 21 foot pounds torque).
The entire process should take you roughly about 10 mins from start to finish.
If this doesn't remedy your problem, then try running the engine for 20 mins with the pump COMPLETELY removed so as to isolate the components.
Posted on Sep 01, 2009
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