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I recommend between 1/4 to 1/2 inch bead of plumbers putty. Slightly flatten the bead on the strainer pushing a little past the outer edge then press it firmly into sink and remove any excess from below sink before installing rubber ring and lock nut tighten firmly but do not over tighten adust drain to center in hole retighten slightly if necessary and remove any excess putty from around drain. Hope this helps.
A garbage disposal can be either installed from scratch or instead of an older disposal.
First of all you need to shop for the disposal that best matches your needs.
For example you should consider whether a noisy disposal would be a problem in your household, what kind of plumbing you have, or if you have kids or not.
Here are some guidelines:
- Choose a motor suitable for your household. There are models with lower or higher horsepower, for smaller households with small amounts of food waste, or larger households with more food waste.
- Consider the features that you need. Like a quieter disposal, or one made of stainless steel, or one that connects to the dishwasher. There is a vast variety of options and prices.
- If you have kids you might want to consider getting a batch feed disposal rather than a continuous feed one. The batch feed disposal is a bit more expensive but it is also safer for kids, as it requires the use of a stopper prior operation. While the continuous feed disposal starts running when you flip the switch on and will continue running a bit also after you switch it off. This can be dangerous if someone drops utensils down the drain or sticks a hand inside the disposal.
- If your plumbing connects to a septic tank you need a disposal made for septic tanks.
After shopping for the right disposal, you need to get hold of these tools you'll be needing for the installation:
- Electrical cord
- Disposer wrench
- Water pump pliers
- Plumber's putty
- Safety supplies: goggles, dust mask, gloves
When you are ready, the first thing to do before installing the new disposal is to turn off power and make sure nobody turns it back on while you work.
Now you can proceed removing the old disposal.
If the old disposal is attached to a dishwasher, loosen and detach the dishwasher hose with a screwdriver.
Then with the wrench unscrew the slip-nut connecting the disposal to the "P" trap waste line, putting a bucket under the trap to catch any waste water sitting at the bottom of the trap.
Remove the old disposal with the screwdriver and take apart the rest of the mounting assembly, including the ring on the sink sleeve, the sink sleeve, the flange, the fiber gasket and the old plumber's putty. Make sure to clean well the sink, the sleeve, the flange and sink opening from old putty and grime before installing the new disposal.
You are now ready to wire your disposal, whether it came with appliance wires attached or if you need to attach them yourself following carefully the manufacturer's instructions (after unscrewing the cover plate beneath the disposal and then screwing it back in).
The next step is installing the drain flange and mounting ring by rolling some plumber's putty between your hands to form a snake about half inch thick and 10 inches long and applying it to the underside of the drain flange. Insert the flange into the drain hole and press down to attach it. You can then snap on the backup ring, fiber gasket and mounting ring.
Use a knife to cut away the extra plumber's putty that will have squeezed out around the flange.
At this point you can place the disposal into the mounting ring making sure that the disposal's outlet is facing the drain pipe connection, and tighten it until it stays in place.
Connect the P-trap, using the hacksaw to cut the discharge pipe to size if too long, and attach it to the outlet of the disposal. Make sure to connect it properly by reading carefully the manufacturer's instructions. If your disposal connects to the dishwasher attach the discharge tube to the disposal as well.
You can now turn the power back on and run cold water into the sink, turning on the disposal to make sure it's working and to check if there are any leaks, and running some food through the disposal to make sure it grinds and disposes properly.
Make sure to mantain your garbage disposal in good shape by avoiding grinding certain items like hard shells from shrimps, crabs or other shellfish, unpopped popcorn kernels and hard bones, by avoiding fibrous or starchy foods like banana peels, celery, potato peels, corn cobs, artichokes, fruit pits and hard seeds like avocados or peaches, onion skins and egg shells, as they create clogs and membranes that will ruin the disposal, and by cutting down big pieces of food into smaller pieces.
It is also best to run cold water while the disposal is on, keeping both water and disposer running for about a minute after the sink is cleared. Cold water helps push food down, avoid overheating of the system and unlike hot water, doesn't melt fat, that would re-solidify as a blockage further down the drain.
We just experienced the problem describe in this question. A dinner guest pushed the strainer stopper past the Blanco flange over the disposer and the stopper could not be removed by pulling straight up. The Blanco flange is difficult to remove so we knew that removing the flange would be a last ditch effort. I tried using several tools trying to deform the stopper enough to lift past the lower part of the flange but without success. While I was on the internet looking for a solution, my wife found the obvious answer. She pushed the stopper down into the disposer, rotated it 90 degrees. She then aligned the edges of the stopper with two of the small indents in the lower part of the flange. The stopper was then pulled up past the flange where only two points on the circumference of the stopper contacted the flange.
Kudos to her for this simple solution.
If disposal has loose parts inside, you have to replace the disposal. If disposal still work and doesn't vibrate and loosen pipes under sink, then it's ok. The don't sell replacement parts for disposals.
I wrote tips for replacing disposals:
When I worked apartment maintenance, we replaced disposal with same brand disposal. That way we didn't have to change out sink basket or move pipes around under the sink. How to: Disconnect 2 nuts on p-trap and trap falls loose. Rotate steel connector disk that holds disposal to sink basket, and disposal comes off. Before installing new disposal. Attach electric wire to new disposal. Attach dishwasher tube to new disposal. Knock out plug inside dishwasher opening. Push new disposal up into place, and attach to old sink basket. Use new connector washer. Attachment ring catches at three points, all three have to connect. Re-assemble tubular pipe.
If this is your home, you want new sink basket that comes with new disposal because it looks shiny and new. Buy a tub of plumbers putty also. Remove old sink basket and clean sink opening. Put finger-size roll of plumbers putty around sink opening, and then push new strainer basket into plumbers putty. Tighten basket from below, wipe away excess putty around sink opening. Install new disposal as described above.
Tips for tubular pipes: When taking apart tubular pipes, start at p-trap and take apart as few pieces as needed to do job. On image above, loosen both upper and lower nuts, trap falls loose, and then work on disposal. Any tubular drain pipe that gets moved while working under sink needs to be disassembled, cleaned and re-assembled. Metal pipes have rubber washer >> always use new rubber washers. Plastic pipes have plastic washers > plastic washers can be cleaned and re-used. Plastic washers have flat side that goes toward nut, tapered side away from nut.
When reassembling tubular pipe, we use rectorseal on washers and joints. Slap a good amount on washer just before pushing washer in place and attaching nut. Rectorseal will ensure tubular drain pipes won't leak.
Are you sure that it is leaking from the bottom and not around drain connection or mounting flange at bottom of sink. If it leaking around drain line you can try tightening hex head bolt that hold drain line to disposal. Also if that is where it's leaking and you cant stop it you can get a replacement gasket from hardware store. If it's leaking around mounting flange you can try tightening three slot headed bolts and see if that helps. There is also a gasket that fits between tiangular shaped mounting flange and bottom of sink that is replaceable. If it is actually leaking from the bottom of disposal then you will need to replace the disposal. hope this helps. Thanks
If your unit has the ISE type mount as shown in the image (three screws), you should be able to back those three screws out, push up on the flange that the screws went through, and remove the snap ring from the groove. The whole assembly will come apart at that point.
The order of installation starting from the top side is the flanged drain then a bead of plumber's putty, and don't skimp on the putty. On the bottom side, first the rubber gasket then the metal washer, finally the locking ring. You must use the plumber's putty between the sink\tub surface and the flange. My mom thought the same thing. She return her drain twice before she asked me why it was leaking:) Hope this helps.