Question about Bosch Nexxt WTMC 6500 Gas Dryer

1 Answer

Hi, my dryer quits after running 5-10 min. It is a 5 year old Bosch Nexxt Gas dryer model # WTMC3500UC/01(bought in Canada). We diligently clean the lint filter before loading. I vacuum down behind the lint filter a couple of times a year. I clean the moisture sensor with vinegar although I don't regularly use fabric softener and rarely a dryer sheet. I wash the lint filter at least once a year with soapy water. We've brushed and vaccumed the metal exhaust hose, although we disconnected this to test to see if it made any difference prior to this and it didn't. What can we do next, short of getting in a repair guy. We live out in the country and know this will be costly. Can we test/replace the sensors ourselves? Could there be some kind of ventilation blockage within the dryer between where I can reach with the vacuum hose and the exhaust hose?

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  • 11 more comments 
  • kehren Mar 15, 2011

    Thank you Daniel for your reply. I just found it in my junk mail box, I should have looked there sooner. Ok, I should have mentioned that I have heat and blowing air, I can hear it igniting15-20 seconds after it starts up. The problem is it shuts off after just 5-10 mins. Which of your above directions can I eliminate because I definitely have heat?

  • kehren Mar 15, 2011

    Hi Daniel, thanks for your reply. Not sure how this works, I am happy to pay you for that, although I havn't had a chance to try your suggestions. I'll wait till my husband comes home this evening. I did send a follow-up note, not sure if you'd get that unless I pay up first. So, maybe you could just tell me how this works. Do I pay you for the advice you've given so far and then you will continue to work with me until my problem is resolved? Does accepting the solution say your advice worked? When in the process do I pay? Sorry, just a rookie.

  • kehren Mar 15, 2011

    Thanks Daniel, I appreciate that. To "check" the thermostat, I am not sure how to access the thermostat on this model of dryer. I think I can see it down behind the lint filter. It looks as though there are two sensors there. I don't have any diagram with these marked. Any suggestions?
    To check the thermostat I found this on ehow:

    Calibrate you ohmmeter at the lowest setting and check to verify that the thermostat is closed by touching the ohmmeter probe to the thermostat electric prong. You should be receiving a measurement of less than 1 ohm on your meter. If more than that, the thermostat needs to be replaced

    Does this sound like what we need to do?

  • kehren Mar 15, 2011

    I called my husband to bring home an ohmmeter, he said we have a multimeter that should do it. I found it and the manual. Apparently it doesnt have a 'beeping' function for continuity. This is all a foreign language to me. It may be elementary, but is the "Diode test" mentioned in my manual what I want for testing "continuity" as you advised? What measurement should I be looking for in the display?

  • kehren Mar 15, 2011

    Thanks Daniel. Looks like we'll need a different meter. I'll get back to you with the results.

  • kehren Mar 16, 2011

    Hi Daniel, there is a small access panel that we could reach one of the sensors. We were able to pull it out to detach the wiring since it had a rubber stopper-like mounting. I don't think it is the thermostat, from the pictures I saw on-line that was the other flat round sensor I can't reach as easily. That one was mounted with two scews and I think we'll have to take off the back of the machine to reach in to it. The sensor we got out has a single steel prong (3/4 inch). Could it be a humidistat? Anyway, we tested it and the continuity measured 1 and did not beep. Could this be the problem?

  • kehren Mar 19, 2011

    Hi Daniel, it's been a busy couple of days and we had to put the dryer issue on hold. But I did pick up a new thermostat and moisture sensor in the city on Thursday. Today we want to get this thing fixed if possible we are trying to get into the back of the machine with great difficulty. The machine is unplugged, gas turned off, gas line disconnected and all the screws removed. However the the panel will not dislodge and seems to have something holding it from under the top panel of the machine. There are no screws holding on the top panel. The only other possible access seems to be from taking out screws (covered with plugs) that hold on the control panel (accessible when you open the dryers door on the front). This seems to be a complicated way to get the back panel off. Are we missing something?

  • kehren Mar 19, 2011

    thanks Daniel, it did help, we got the front off and we could access the thermostat a little easier. However, having disconnected the old one and testing it, it does have continuity. Do you still think the thermostat is the problem?

  • kehren Mar 19, 2011

    None of the sensors test continuity, even the new one. I have tested the old one, the new one and the drum sensor. They told me where I bought the parts that you can't test sensors with an ohmmeter. They dont work the same? Should I be testing them some other way?

  • kehren Mar 21, 2011

    Hello Daniel, we didn't hear back since my last reply, are you still working with us? Having replaced the thermostat and a moisture sensor, dissassembled the machine and put it back together we are dissappointed that it seems even worse. Now the machine wont even start. The Lint Filter light flashes and we get the beeping signal. Is there some kind of reset on these machines?

  • kehren Mar 21, 2011

    Hi Daniel, Do you mean on the top panel where the controls are? We are looking at a bunch of wires neatly bundled with plastic ties and protected by a "cage like" barrier protecting the actual connectors. We can't see anything loose or disconnected. Should we be looking here for the tab or somewhere down by the actual door switch? If it is on the wired control panel, can you give us some clue as to where we should see the "tab"?
    Thanks,
    Karen

  • kehren Mar 22, 2011

    Hi Daniel, thank you for directing us toward the switch issue. We couldn't determine what exactly you were calling the "tab" but we did figure out that the door switch was the final problem (after the thermostat). It looks as though when we were removing the screws to take off the front panel the one that held the front panel to the switch housing broke right out of the plastic (experienced now, we will loosen them all gradually since there seems to be some pressure released when unscrewing). By pressing the switch with the "eraser end" of a pencil while the machine was "on" it started up. Looks like we will need to replace that part. For now a "duct taped" eraser with the metal band fits perfectly over the plastic part on the door that is meant to press the switch when the door closes, extending it just enough to start the machine. A crazy little quick fix til we get the part, but I've been a week without my dryer and it's working! Hurray! Thanks for your patient help!

    Karen

  • kehren Mar 22, 2011

    I just finished typing my final post with a concluding comment. I hope you get that. Just in case you don't, again we want to thank your for your patient help over the last week. I didn't have so much faith in us and booked a repair guy for Thursday. Tomorrow I can cancel that, woohoo! We could have never got it done without your step by step directions. Thanks for sharing your "skills"!
    Karen : )

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  • 4,323 Answers

Hi

1. Inspect the fuses and circuit breakers they may have burned out or tripped. Usually, dryer will still tumble but not create heat if a fuse or a circuit breaker is not working.
2. Check for the continuity of the heating element in your gas dryer using a multimeter. Replace the element if continuity is not there.
3. Inspect the thermal fuse if it is burnt out, it is attached to the exhaust duct on the back panel of the gas dryer. Replace if necessary.
4. Check the igniter by first disconnecting it, and then place the probes onto the two contacts of the igniter. The meter should read under 100 Ohms of resistance, if it is above 100 then replace the igniter.
5. Check the continuity on the flame sensor. The sensors are usually located close by the igniter so are easily visible.

Hope this helps...please post back for further assistance.
Daniel

Posted on Mar 14, 2011

  • 7 more comments 
  • Daniel Scott
    Daniel Scott Mar 15, 2011

    I would still say to check the thermostat and then the motor

  • Daniel Scott
    Daniel Scott Mar 15, 2011

    Its fine :) lets get this resolved first then you can accept the solution to pay...post back for further assistance.

  • Daniel Scott
    Daniel Scott Mar 15, 2011

    Yup that is right, you can check both of them for continuity.

  • Daniel Scott
    Daniel Scott Mar 15, 2011

    Be sure that the meter you get has a continuity scale (ohms)(symbol: ω). Continuity testing must be done when the device is disconnected from the power source.

  • Daniel Scott
    Daniel Scott Mar 15, 2011

    Alright

  • Daniel Scott
    Daniel Scott Mar 16, 2011

    I still believe it is the thermostat and yes you can take out the back panel to replace it

  • Daniel Scott
    Daniel Scott Mar 19, 2011

    Hi



    Please check the below video for disassembly instructions---





    Hope this helps...



    Daniel

  • Daniel Scott
    Daniel Scott Mar 19, 2011

    If it tests continuity then check the sensor

  • Daniel Scott
    Daniel Scott Mar 21, 2011

    Sorry for
    late response...somehow I missed your last comment....as you have already replaced
    the sensor and the thermostat and now the lint filter light is blinking, it
    means that the door switch is not engaging. Once you open the top access panel
    you will see a plastic tab it might not be fully snapped in place. You can snap
    the tab back and then secure it with a screw, the door switch should engage and
    the light should turn off. After this if the issue remains then replace the
    door switch.
    Hope this helps...please post back for further assistance.



    Daniel

    Sorry for late response...somehow I missed your last comment....as you have already replaced the sensor and the thermostat and now the lint filter light is blinking, it means that the door switch is not engaging. Once you open the top access panel you will see a plastic tab it might not be fully snapped in place. You can snap the tab back and then secure it with a screw, the door switch should engage and the light should turn off. After this if the issue remains then replace the door switch. Hope this helps...please post back for further assistance.

    Daniel

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