Question about Samsung Kitchen Ranges

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Is there a design flaw in the Samsung ranges; i.e. thermostat is located in center between elements - not in one corner as most ranges? I'm having my range replaced with another of same model; but I'm concerned it will do the same thing; i.e. take 20 minutes to preheat with temperatures varying.

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Any range with a built-in element ( the bottom element not exposed) takes on average 15 to 20 min to preheat. It's not only the samsung ranges.

Posted on Mar 14, 2011

  • Richard Conklin
    Richard Conklin Jan 03, 2014

    My oven is hidden and worked well for the last six months. It now overheats with a wide swing in temperature.

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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No heat in dryer mode


In electric dryers, heat is generated by the heating element. The element is a coil of heating wire enclosed in a metal chamber. Electric current flowing through the coil creates heat and the air being pulled through the chamber absorbs this heat. If the element is defective then it will not heat. It can be tested with a multi-meter for continuity. Unplug the dryer and remove the front or rear panel to locate the element so it can be tested.
The high limit thermostat is a safety device mounted on the heating chamber and is designed to prevent the dryer from overheating when the exhaust vent is restricted. A restricted vent will cause the high limit thermostat to trip or activate, interrupting the circuit to the heating element or gas valve. The high limit thermostat is not designed to activate repeatedly like a cycling thermostat and will eventually fail causing a no heat symptom. Disconnect the power to the dryer and check the thermostat for continuity with a multi-meter. If there is no continuity then it will need to be replaced and the restricted vent system corrected as well.
Cycling thermostats control the temperature inside the dryer drum. They are designed to "cycle" the heating element on and off to maintain the correct amount of heat. Cycling thermostats are normally located on the blower housing or elsewhere in the internal airflow ducting. Over time, the cycling thermostat can become defective. Disconnect the power to the dryer and check the thermostat for continuity with a multi-meter.

Dec 02, 2013 | Splendide 2100 Vented Washer-Dryer

1 Answer

Emergency heat not working where is the heating elements located


user manual:
javascript:openreq('http://downloadcenter.samsung.com/content/UM/200305/20030520185350656_AS18A2RE.pdf')

if you are using a hard wired thermostat, you have one designed for a heat pump. Heat pumps are minimally effective at outdoor temperatures below 30'f. Emergency heat systems are not generally included with any split system, but would be located in the indoor air handler.

Nov 19, 2013 | Samsung AS18A6RB Air Conditioner

1 Answer

I HAVE A WHIRLPOOL ACCUBAKE RANGE, THE OVEN AND BROILER DOES NOT WORK. CHANGED SPARK MODULE AND STILL DOESN'T WORK. ANY SOLUTIONS?????


There are four other things to check on the oven, you will have to run a test on the broiler element, oven thermostat, selector switch and the oven cycling relay.
To test the broiler element, To access the broil element located on the roof of the oven cavity, first open the oven and remove the oven racks. Remove the screws that secure the element to the oven, remove the holding brackets from the element and slide the element forward.
There is normally a small amount of excess wiring attached to the terminals on the element that allow a little room for maneuverability (you may have to tilt the element to get the terminals through the holes). Look for loose or disconnected wires and if there is no sign of burning; reconnect the wiring to the back of the terminal. If a terminal end is damaged, replace it with a terminal end designed specifically for oven use only.
To test the broil element, remove the wires from the broil element terminals by removing the screws from the terminal or pulling the wires off the broil element terminal. Remember to label the wires for reinstallation.
Visually check the entire element for signs of burn.
Test the broiler element for continuity. Using the ohmmeter, set the range scale on R x 1 and place the probes on the element terminals. There should be continuity, with readings ranging from 19 to 115 ohms, however readings will vary from manufacturer to manufacturer and according to unit size and the wattage, be sure to check your manual for the manufacturer's specifications.
If there are any signs of element burning, or if there is no continuity, replace the element.
To test for a grounded broil element, place one probe on the element outer surface and the other on the element terminal as in the ground test for the baking element. If continuity exists, the element has shorted and should be replaced. Be sure to test both terminals.
To test a dual broil element, remove the wires from their terminals. Using the ohmmeter, set the range on R x 1. Place the probes on terminals A and C to check for continuity, followed by terminals B and C. To test for a grounded element, place one probe on the element outer surface. With the other probe, touch terminal A, followed by B and then C. If continuity exists, the element has shorted and should be replaced.
To install a new broil element, simply reverse the disassembly procedures and reassemble, being sure to follow the wiring diagram and install the wires to the correct terminals
To test the oven thermostat: Access the oven thermostat, which is located in different places depending on the make and model: On freestanding ranges, access the thermostat by removing the screws that hold the back panel in place at both ends. On models with front-loading controls, remove the panel and tilt it for access. Be careful not to let the wires disconnect from their components. Some built-in models have a removable backsplash. Lift the backsplash, rest it on the cook top and remove the screws from the backsplash, which holds the rear panel. On wall ovens or eye-level ranges, access the control panel by opening the door and removing the screws that secure it. The screws may be under the exhaust hood or below the control panel. If the control panel is hinged, simply tilt it towards you. On some models both the rear and front control panels must be removed. The screws may be found on the trim and occasionally the trim must be removed.
When testing the thermostat switch contacts for continuity, refer to the wiring diagram and remove only those wires being tested - and only one pair at a time. Test switch contact terminals as per your wiring diagram. If the switch lacks continuity at any of the contact terminal points then the entire thermostat switch needs to be replaced. Adjusting the thermostat: Test the oven temperature by placing the tester in the oven's center and leaving it for 30 minutes at 350 degrees. Record the minimum and maximum temperatures of three cycles, then add those figures together, divide the result by six and you have the oven's average temperature.
If the average temperature is more than 25 degrees off, try calibrating the thermostat by following your appliance manual instructions for thermostat calibration.
Normally, thermostats are calibrated by pulling the oven's thermostat knob off, turning the knob over and adjusting the calibration ring on the back. If your oven doesn't have a calibration ring you may need to replace the thermostat.
To remove the thermostat: Disconnect the capillary tube and push it through the back oven wall, being careful not to break the flammable capillary tube wire. Remove the screws that secure the thermostat to the control panel and gently pull the thermostat out, leaving the wires in place. To install a new thermostat, reverse the disassembly procedures (Step 7 above), transferring the wires individually from the old unit to the new.
To test the selector switch: In order to gain access to the oven selector dial, first move the range away from the wall and remove the back cover panel by undoing the retaining screws. This will expose the back of the oven selector dial. Note: There are many styles of ranges. If this does not describe your range, refer to your owner's manual for instructions on gaining access to your oven selector dial. Now you can begin to test each pair of switch contacts for continuity with your VOM. Using the ohmmeter function, set the range scale to R x 1, and touch one test lead to each terminal of the switch contacts to be tested. There will be several pairs of contacts, one pair for each setting (eg. broil, bake, etc.). Refer carefully to your wiring diagram (often placed on the inside of the access panel) when testing. It is a good idea to label the wires as you test and only remove one pair of wires at a time. If there is no continuity between any pair of contacts, the switch is defective and must be replaced. To install a new oven selector dial switch, remove the old switch from the control panel by undoing the nut or screws holding the switch in place, leaving all wires attached. Transfer the wires one at a time from the old switch to the correct terminal of the new switch. Check your wiring diagram to make sure all wires are on the correct terminals. Now mount the new switch to the back of the control panel and replace the cover.
To test the oven cycling relay: In order to gain access to the oven cycling relay, refer to your owner's manual. Removing the back panel of the range accesses most relays, but some ranges locate the relay under the oven compartment where the utility drawer is usually located. Now you can test the relay using your VOM. First, label each wire attached to the relay and remove them from the relay terminals. Using your VOM's ohmmeter function, set the range to R x 1 and touch one test lead to the terminal marked L and the other test lead to terminal H2. There should be NO continuity. Next, test the terminals marked H1 and H2. Again, there should be NO continuity. Finally, test the S and R terminals. Continuity should exist between these two terminals. If your relay does not pass all these tests, it is defective and should be replaced. To remove the relay, undo the two screws securing it to the range and replace with the correct new relay. Refer to your wiring diagram and labeled wires to ensure that the wires are on the correct terminals. Now replace the back panel or drawer and test the oven.
Hope this was helpful to you. Thanks for using fixya.

Jan 27, 2011 | Whirlpool Kitchen Ranges

1 Answer

Replaced elements but does not heat in bowl


Check the thermal cutoff located on the element.  It is designed to blow if the element gets too hot.  If the thermal cutoff is blown, the hi limit thermostat (also located on the element) will also need to be replaced.  It will have two terminals on it and if it is good it will have continuity.  Trace the wires back from the element.  The first one it comes to will be the thermal cutoff, next will be the high limit thermostat.  

Nov 07, 2009 | Fisher and Paykel Dryers

1 Answer

Oven won't get up to higher heats


Both bake elements still work? Both top and bottom bake elements?

It is possible that the thermostat on your oven needs calibration. However, major errors in temperature may be the result of a bad heating element, blown fuse or tripped breaker, a door that doesn't close or seal properly, etc. Confirm that the oven is in otherwise good operating condition before attempting calibration.

Most thermostats have a calibration screw located under the knob. Try pulling the knob off and look at the shaft. Some shafts have a small screw located in the center. Rotating this screw will change the trip point at which the thermostat will turn on and off. This is determined by the sensor located inside the oven itself. Some other schemes allow for the entire control to rotate with respect to the scale. You will need to identify the type used on your oven

Let me know if I can help you to recalibrate, but I recommend calling an appliance serviceperson because they'll have thermostats and know how to adjust your temperature calibration.

May 07, 2009 | Kitchen Ranges

1 Answer

Unable to install the electrolux slide in electric range


  • Electrolux may have supplied generic installation instructions, failing to account for design differences
  • Electrolux failed to validate the installation instructions against the actual hardware

Jun 23, 2017 | Electrolux EW30ES65GS 30" Slide-in...

2 Answers

Deep-fryer thermostat


It is possible that the heater is shortened and it burns thermostat. Thermostat's are usually bimetal type mounted on ceramic so voltage does not matter a much.

Jan 13, 2009 | Kitchen Appliances - Others

1 Answer

The Infra-red broiler covered by glass does not sear or brown sufficiently


You might try covering the glass areas ( such as the door ) with tin foil... Hope that helps...

Aug 15, 2008 | DCS RGS-305 Professional Gas Kitchen Range

1 Answer

Bake oven element blew


Could be the oven selector switch or the thermostat that failed form thhe element shorting out. You will have to have a ohm meter to check these

Dec 15, 2007 | Jenn-Air SVE47100 Slide-In Electric...

1 Answer

Oven not heating


i have had this problem twice. once was the heating element actually had shorted out because the little ceramic holders had broken, this necessitated getting new element. can be checked out with an ohmmeter by yourself or by taking element into appliance repair place. the other time, it was that the manual reset switch had tripped after a self-clean cycle. actually at the moment, that has happened again- design flaw perhaps in the RSD30 range?
so anyone who can tell a reasonable competent refrigeration/HVAC technician where the manual reset switch is would be appreciated.

Oct 28, 2007 | Dacor ECS127 Epicure Electric Single Oven

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