Question about GE Profile WPRE6100G Top Load Washer

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Hi. GE WPRE6100G1WT top load washing machine. We purchased the machine in November 2008. It is used in a private residence to run maybe 3 loads per week. The suspension rod assemblies were replaced under warranty over a year ago. New problem: seems to agitate much more quickly than expected. Also, there are loud clanking signs at the end of each half of the agitation motion. I mean, spin clockwise, CLANK, spis counterclockwise, CLANK. Finally, for a few seconds on Saturday, a loud screeching came from within during agitation. The noise "went away by itself." (I hate using that phrase, but it did.) There was no burning smell. I took off the front panel. The suspension looks OK. Nothing fell inside the machine to impede motion. There seems to be excess play between the belt drive wheel and the upright shaft. That is, I can twist the shaft a few degrees before the slack is taken up between the shaft and the drive wheel. Nothing looks burned. If you overlook the noise, then you can go ahead and use the machine to run a load of laundry. It completes a wash-spin-rinse-spin sequence unevently, other than the noises. That screeching, the one time it occurred, was quite disconcerting, though. I'm thinking it's the transmission. We don't know if it is still under warranty or not, and the GE call taker can't really advise on this. I will see if I can find a GE technician later this afternoon. Thanks.

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  • GE Master
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I suspect the main bearing.

Posted on Mar 01, 2017

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: Washer won't agitate or spin out.

Well it is ethier Belt, Cluch ,motor ,Or transmission. But it does sound like your transmission . The loud clunk is the brake in the gear case ( Trans.). It might have broken off.

Posted on May 05, 2009

  • 35 Answers

SOURCE: Knocking noise during agitation cycle - GE WNSR2100T8WW

I believe you must have one of the bottom of the line cheapo washers, as I do--the one with the plastic, rather than steel wash tub and basket? These are pretty poor machines. They cut corners drastically in every part of the design. I've replaced the aluminum hub that supports the spin basket ( the hub is bare aluminum and corrodes within about 5 years use from the highly alkaline detergent, then it fractures under mechanical stress. Then the motor burned out. I was able to get a nearly new motor on ebay for $90 incl. shipping. (BTW, if you need appliance parts try GOOD Appliance on ebay for new and salvaged parts--they're excellent! 100% feedback rating) However, I now have the same problem--a fairly loud knocking noise during the agitation phases of the cycle. This is cause by a really crappy transmission design that does not wear well. My advice is just ignore it as long as it works and isn't leaking oil and the tub seal is still good. If it does finally go to pieces get one on ebay--that is if you feel up to doing the job yourself since a repair person would charge more than it's worth to install it. I believe new ones can be had on ebay for about $80, some are sold with seal kits. Bottom line is--if you want a machine that will last you for 15-20 years--don't buy a cheapo model. The front loaders are better as they use far less hot water (energy and water savings) but a good one is going to be anywhere from about $800 to $1600.

Posted on Sep 17, 2009

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