Question about Maytag Appliances Over-the-Range Microwave Oven
Posted by Anonymous on
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
It could easily be a bad line fuse and/or line filter. To access you will need to unplug the unit and remove the outside case. Inside the unit, where the A/C power cord comes in, there should be a small circuit card (part #237068) located somewhere with a fuse mounted on it. This is your input line filter board with line fuse. Replace the fuse, first and see if this fixes your problem. This is a 20amp appliance fuse that you can purchase at any hardware store. Make sure you place the cover back on the unit BEFORE you plug it in. It is not safe to have this area of the microwave exposed with power applied. High potentials in the 4,000 volt range are present! If the fuse does not correct your problem, the circuit card runs about $26.00. Good luck and hope this fixes your problem.
Posted on Aug 04, 2007
If the food in the cooking compartment is not heating at all, then you may have one of several components related to microwave energy generation that have failed or became disconnected internally.
Magnetron Tube, HV Capacitor, Filament Transformer or any number of sensors that disable power to the system. The control board could also cause the system to noty function correctly.. You wanted general inputs.. there ya go.. LOL
Not sure I told you anything you didn't already know but you should ask the tech what he did after he gets it going...
Posted on Nov 28, 2008
I'm not sure that swapping out the breakers to higher rated ones will give you a solution so I'll throw in 2 cents to see if my advice holds true. Let's start by asking this. Is the appliance "rated" at 220 volts at 30 amps per leg. I assume this from your post as to what it has been rated. Next - How long is the "run" of wire from the junction box to the outlet where the appliance plugs in? This usually does not matter in most households but if the run is of significant length it may need a larger gage wire to support the current draw of the appliance. Lastly, and perhaps most importantly, are the lugs and wire connectors tight at the outlet, the plug, and the breaker box. A loose connection will ramp up the current fast. This is assuming the first two items were met. Tell me if any of this helps and we'll work it out from there.
Posted on Feb 28, 2009
With the symptoms you
have, I would most strongly suspect a shorted high voltage rectifier
diode or a bad magnetron, or a loose and possibly corroded connection on the magnetron's terminal.
The diode is a fairly cheap fix, and your magnetron is still under the part warranty, but you would have to pay labor.
There should be a "mini-manual" (tech sheet) hidden inside the unit behind the control panel or hidden on the left side behind the grille, which is very helpful when troubleshooting, testing, and locating components.
At our Web site, we have a video available showing how to remove a typical over the range control panel assembly in under 5 minutes.
Here are some links you or someone you know can use for test help, but read their safety warnings first:
(if it's not shorted or burned, it's probably okay)
If within the magnetron portion of the warranty (5-9 years) but out of the original full warranty (1 year), the manufacturer will cover the part cost, but not the cost to visit you or the labor charge to do the work.
If nothing else, you can save about $50-75 if you remove it from the wall and take it to a Whirlpool-authorized servicer.
You can find your nearest Whirlpool/Maytag-authorized servicer here.
Accessing some components for testing and possible replacement will require you to remove the oven from the wall.
If so, the installation instructions are very handy, and it's best to have two people since the microwave can be heavy and awkward.
You can download Whirlpool owner's manuals and installation instructions here.
We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.
Posted on Mar 06, 2009
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