Question about Amana 3.2 cu. ft. Top-Load Washer
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: main seal
This is a pretty tough job to do on your own, but can be done. First step is to remove the front, then the top. Remove the rear cover plate under the console, and swing it out of the way. Unclip the top ring and remove the four suspension dampener straps, remove the top ring. Reach under the agitator, and pull up with force (dont hit yourself in the head or face with it, hurts for sure...) until it pops off (agitators on GE's just snap). Sometimes these can be a real bear to get off, so dont get discouraged. Sometimes you can put a peice of small rope or line under it and jerk it up. After you remove the agitator, you will see the drive bell. Remove the bolt on top of the bell, and once again, try to pull the bell up and off the shaft (once again, a real bear in some occasions, rope trick or puller also will work here). Once you remove the bell, the good part starts. Most of us repair persons have a special spanner tool for that nut your looking at. I believe it is a 1 7/8" nut. This nut is REVERSED THREADED, which means to remove you will spin it clockwise. These spanner nuts can be very, VERY difficult to remove. A lot of WD-40 and time. Most of the time you have to bang them off with that special tool and a hammer, but you may get lucky. If you do get that nut off, you can remove the inner tub. Be sure that the metal drive hub bolted to the bottom of the inner tub is completely tight all the way around. GE units have a very bad habit of those screws backing out and the drum getting loose causing major league noise. Now that you have removed that, you need to remove the outer drum. Remove the wires from the motor, etc. Unhook the 4 suspension rods and plastic clips by pulling the bottoms down (spring loaded) and removing them from the frame. Unhook the tub to pump drain hose, tilt the entire center section top towards the back, and swing the unit out from the bottom. Remove the outer tub by removing the hold down screws. Your seal will be in the bottom. Just pop out and replace. Here are some diagrams that might help you out.
Cabinet and Top:
Drum, Agitator, Basket:
Drive Componants, Suspension Parts:
Good luck, and let me know how it comes out, or if you need anything further. Good Luck!!!!!!
Posted on Feb 03, 2008
Cylon, sounds like you need to replace the water inlet valve. It's not seating and weeping water. For series 10 the part number would be 40097701. Not that hard of a job. Catriver..post back.
Posted on Feb 21, 2007
SOURCE: Haier Washer M # XQG50-11
Once you remove the rear access panel, you would see the main pulley on the rear of the outer tub. You need to remove that nut with a metric allen wrench. once the pulley is off, you can then remove the bolts holding the yoke in place. The Yoke and the bearings are available as a part assembly from haier. It is highly unlikely that you would need to replace the outer tub.
Posted on Mar 08, 2008
you flip the washer on its side
remove the screws on the side
take out the tub springs
remove the pulley
put the belt on bolt on the pulley
put the tub springs back hardest part in my opnion
replace the screws
test the washing machine
....it is no different than changing a belt on a car ....my best suggestion is that you take pictures at every step and stay organized...that way u can tell orientation of all the parts.
Posted on Mar 19, 2009
Here is a tip that will help you with that...
Posted on Apr 26, 2010
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