Question about Dryers
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
before you replace the heater
most common cause of heating failure is burn out of the thermal cut-out.
(also called thermal fuse, overtemp cutout and probably half a dozen other names)
These are a small screw on device on the exhaust duct, when exhaust air reaches too high a temperature, like a blockage, they fail before a fire.
examin the exhaust duct inside the dryer for devices that look like this or like this with wires connected to the terminals. there may be 2(hi lo), test with a ohmmeter -conductivity good, no conductivity replace.
there are only a few different kinds the local parts guy will have them all. take the dud one for him to match.
Posted on Aug 27, 2008
I would check your vent if I were you disconnect the vent and run the dryer to see if it works better. also clear the vent line. good luck
Posted on Jan 11, 2009
you have to see if you see any broken wire on it,also there should be a fuse on the top left side of the heater box at might be bad,let me know what you find-mike
Posted on Apr 15, 2009
SOURCE: roper dryer won't heat up.
Before you start diagnosing your problem, ascertain that you have made a proper and positive heat selection on the control panel, then proceed.
Below is a link courtesy of www.repairclinic.com, which shows disassembly/diagnostic procedures.
A volt-ohm meter (VOM) will be helpful in diagnosing most issues.
Purchase a VOM
Below are the next 4 common failure modes to check.
If your dryer doesn't heat, check these:
Power from the house
Power from the house Check to see whether there's power getting to the dryer. Is it plugged in? Check for blown fuses or tripped circuit breakers--your dryer uses two fuses or circuit breakers. The dryer could tumble but not heat if only one of the two fuses is blown. If you have circuit breakers, one of the two circuit breakers can trip, even if the two for the dryer are connected.
Heating element Often a dryer heating element burns out, but doesn't trip the circuit breaker or blow a fuse. The heating element is simply a long coil of special wire. You can check it for continuity with an ohm meter. No continuity means the element is bad and you need to replace it--electric heating elements aren't repairable.
Thermal fuse On many dryers, there's a thermal fuse mounted to the exhaust duct inside the back cover panel. The fuse--which is about an inch long--is usually embedded in black resin and mounted in a white plastic housing. If the fuse has blown, you need to replace it. (You can't re-set it.)
Wiring A common problem is for the main wiring connection from the house, at the dryer, to burn and break its connection. Because the dryer can still tumble with partial power, the connection may be only partially defective. You may need to replace both the power cord to the dryer and the terminal block inside the dryer that the wire is attached to.
If all the above checks allright, then proceed to the next steps below.
Thermal overload/cutoff thermostat.
Motor Centrifugal Switch.
Heating Element Connection Wire.
Posted on Sep 21, 2009
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