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I have a Roper REX3615EW0. My dryer still runs, but it is not heating. What do you think the problem may be. People have told me that they think it may be the heating element.

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

AlmostBob
  • 550 Answers

SOURCE: Replacing Heater Element in Roper Dryer

before you replace the heater most common cause of heating failure is burn out of the thermal cut-out. (also called thermal fuse, overtemp cutout and probably half a dozen other names) These are a small screw on device on the exhaust duct, when exhaust air reaches too high a temperature, like a blockage, they fail before a fire.
examin the exhaust duct inside the dryer for devices that look like this 641e982.jpg or like this dd7fd44.jpg with wires connected to the terminals. there may be 2(hi lo), test with a ohmmeter -conductivity good, no conductivity replace.
there are only a few different kinds the local parts guy will have them all. take the dud one for him to match.

Posted on Aug 27, 2008

onthejob5130
  • 640 Answers

SOURCE: dryer tumbles, no heat

its a gas dryer it doesnt have ,,heating element...replace thermal fuse

Posted on Dec 28, 2008

djz83
  • 88 Answers

SOURCE: I am currently having a problem with my Kenmore Dryer. It is running but it is not heating up to ....

I would check your vent if I were you disconnect the vent and run the dryer to see if it works better. also clear the vent line. good luck

Posted on Jan 11, 2009

  • 1122 Answers

SOURCE: blowing cold air-no heat to dry clothing-how do i know it is the heating element that is bad?

you have to see if you see any broken wire on it,also there should be a fuse on the top left side of the heater box at might be bad,let me know what you find-mike

Posted on Apr 15, 2009

Illeagle
  • 525 Answers

SOURCE: roper dryer won't heat up.

Before you start diagnosing your problem, ascertain that you have made a proper and positive heat selection on the control panel, then proceed.

Below is a link courtesy of www.repairclinic.com, which shows disassembly/diagnostic procedures.
http://www.repairclinic.com/Dryer-Electric-Whirlpool-Style-Version-2-Appliance-Diagram

A volt-ohm meter (VOM) will be helpful in diagnosing most issues.

http://www.ehow.com/how_2076998_use-voltohm-meter-safely.html?ref=fuel&utm_source=yahoo&utm_medium=ssp&utm_campaign=yssp_art

Purchase a VOM
http://www.omega.com/ppt/pptsc.asp?ref=HHMA&Nav=vhtj06

Below are the next 4 common failure modes to check.
If your dryer doesn't heat, check these:

Power from the house
Heating element
Thermal fuse
Wiring
Power from the house Check to see whether there's power getting to the dryer. Is it plugged in? Check for blown fuses or tripped circuit breakers--your dryer uses two fuses or circuit breakers. The dryer could tumble but not heat if only one of the two fuses is blown. If you have circuit breakers, one of the two circuit breakers can trip, even if the two for the dryer are connected.

Heating element Often a dryer heating element burns out, but doesn't trip the circuit breaker or blow a fuse. The heating element is simply a long coil of special wire. You can check it for continuity with an ohm meter. No continuity means the element is bad and you need to replace it--electric heating elements aren't repairable.

Thermal fuse On many dryers, there's a thermal fuse mounted to the exhaust duct inside the back cover panel. The fuse--which is about an inch long--is usually embedded in black resin and mounted in a white plastic housing. If the fuse has blown, you need to replace it. (You can't re-set it.)

Wiring A common problem is for the main wiring connection from the house, at the dryer, to burn and break its connection. Because the dryer can still tumble with partial power, the connection may be only partially defective. You may need to replace both the power cord to the dryer and the terminal block inside the dryer that the wire is attached to.

If all the above checks allright, then proceed to the next steps below.

Thermal overload/cutoff thermostat.
http://www.repairclinic.com/SSPartDetail.aspx?s=t-REX4635EQ2-%
3d%3di2651&PartID=2651


Cycling thermostat.
http://www.repairclinic.com/SSPartDetail.aspx?s=t-REX4635EQ2-%3d%3di2893&PartID=2893


Motor Centrifugal Switch.
http://www.repairclinic.com/SSPartDetail.aspx?s=t-REX4635EQ2-%3d%3di2584&PartID=2584


Heating Element Connection Wire.
http://www.repairclinic.com/SSPartDetail.aspx?s=t-REX4635EQ2-%3d%3di3140&PartID=3140


Timer.
http://www.repairclinic.com/SSPartDetail.aspx?s=t-REX4635EQ2-%3d%3di548371&PartID=548371

Posted on Sep 21, 2009

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First check the thermal fuse on the back of the filter housing.
http://www.repairclinic.com/RepairHelp/How-To-Fix-A-Dryer/8-6-539031-/Kenmore-Dryer-doesn-t-heat-11060832990

Attached is a good troubleshooting video. I think that you will find that the Roper is the same as the Whirlpool and Kenmore
Note that the first thing that he does is to test the incoming voltage.
I suggest that you do this with the dryer running. I have seen breakers that will pass voltage without a load and as soon as a load is applied there is no voltage showing. As he says in the video the dryer can run on 110V as the motor is 110V however if it is missing the other leg of the 220V it can't heat. Another way that you could test this is to reverse the two incoming hot wires.
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