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Ken, Don't know if this will be of any help or not, as I've never seen a dryer drum with the felt seal on the front. All of the machines I've repaired, (and that's a bunch), had the felt seal on the rear of the drum, with the front being supported by the configuration of the front panel where the door is located. Mostly the front of the drums were supported by small strips of teflon, or cork, as slides, but that's it. Never had one with felt in front. Is it possible the drum is in backwards?
It is not a special stitch, just a three thread overlocked seam with left needle but you do it with the blind hem foot and fold your fabric into a "z" shape, wrong side upwards and raw edge at the bottom to be trimmed by the blade as you seam. The folded edge is run against the "blade" of your blind hem foot to ensure even "bite" of the upper fold by the needle while the loopers form the seam around your raw edge below. Then when you finish and press the z fold open, you obviously want a little as possible of the needle stitch to show on the right side of the hemline. So you need to practice and adjust the position of the blind hem guide to ensure you are getting the needle to stitch just onto the folded edge.
I have only ever done it on knit fabric, as it does show and not very successful on a curved hem edge, straight edge is fine. You only want to catch a minimal amount of the fabric with the needle, lengthen the stitch length to 3 so there is less stitches per inch as it will show on the right side.
You need a foot like this one so you can guide the folded edge of the fabric hem along against the white plastic foot. This is a generic style snap on blind hem foot, your machine should have one in the accessories that looks like this if your machine has a blind hem stitch included in its functions.
You fold the fabric into a upside down Z shape and run the top folded edge along the white guide with the fabric under the foot, hard to explain but once youve done it once, it makes sense.
You need to select the stitch on your machine that looks like 3 small zigzags, then one bigger one, or 3 straight stitches, then one zig zag to the side. This is the blind hemming stitch. You'll possibly also have a blind hemming foot to use, which helps with guiding the fabric fold into the machine and keeping it even. But if not, you should be able to buy one from your Huskqvarna dealer or a generic one from www.sewingpartsonline.com may well fit.
Blind hemming works best when hemming straight edges of fabric such as a ruffle on a full skirt - if there is any curve in the seam, it gets much harder and the result won't look so good. In essence, you press the fabric hem up, then fold the hem edge back under so you have a "S' shape, then sew along the single layer with the folded edge sitting against the foot guide. Then when the machine takes the 4th wide stitch, the needle swings to the left and catches a small stitch into the upper folded layer, then back onto the hem. The trick is adjusting the stitch so that the wide stitch doesn't show much on the right side of the garment
Remove toe panel if used. Remove front cabinet panel. Remove the old bearing and seal from the front panel. Leave the 3
plastic plugs Install the new bearing and seal around the opening flange, with the
white portion of the seal to the outside of the front panel flange.
Make sure the folded edge of the seal is facing away from the front
cabinet panel, and the 3 holes in the bearing fit over the 3 plastic clips. Fold
seal with white portion of the seal sandwiched between the fold of the seal.
Replace front panel and top. Reconnect power and test. please comment on these solution by saying how helpful.
Hi, If this a whirlpool make, The felt side gets the glue. The edge that is sown tight on the edge gets glued to the tub. Make sure that you do not push the seal to far unto the drum so the flap on the seal hangs against the edge of the drum.
I tried looking up your part # and it doesn't come up.
If you look at the back side of this seal you will notice a threading closer to one side and not the other. The thread (felt side) closest to the edge is the one that gets glued to the drum.
Please let me know if this helps you or if I can assist you further.
If the clothes catch on the drum edge the felt seal is worn out , and the squeak could be the bearing the drum rest on or the belt tentioner , it may need oiled , you can buy the felt seal replacement kits online and they are not hard to install.
Hope this helps.
I had the same problem with zippers and socks. Solution was as simple as replacing the felt seal at the top of the dryer door.The drum rides on the felt seal that has plastic guides imbedded in it. It's function is to seal and more importantly act as a guide for the drum.
Check the drum at the front edge if the gap around it is not the same or if the drum is wobbley when you lift it by hand that is probably the problem.
You will need to open the dryer cabinet. Mine had 2 catch springs at the front top edges that were released by pressing with a thin flat object that will fit between the top and bottom cabinet(butter knife). Once the top can be lifted you may find a couple of screws that secure the front panel and door. Once removed the front panel can be popped off and lifted out (careful of door switch wires).At this point you csn see the felt at the top of the door . It is glued in place and is easily removed. your local appliance part supplier can supply you with a replacement that comes with the glue and installation instructions.
Put the dryer back together and no more burnt socks and ruined zippers.
To all victims of the brownish colored streak marks: I share your frustration!!! I have the same problem with my dryer which started when my dryer was only 3 or 4 years old - - totally unacceptable for an expensive top of the line dryer! A repair guy showed me how the brownish streak marks come from the felt liner which goes around the drum. Look inside your dryer for the beige or tan colored felt which sticks out around the circular drum. If you rub the felt with an old white t-shirt or paper towel, you will see the same brownish colored marks. My repairman recommended getting the felt replaced eventually, but until then, he gave me the following tips which really help avoid getting the streaks: For white or light colored clothes susceptible to the brownish streak marks: I dry these items as part of a very lightweight dryer load - with just a few other lightweight items. By doing a small lightweight load, clothing is less likely to get caught up & rub against the felt edges. For example, I dry 4 light colored men's dress shirts with 2 or 3 other lightweight shirts. OR for white or light colored athletic "dry fit" type athletic apparel, I dry 6 - 8 total lightweight shirts/shorts. If I throw my white Nike top or white pair of summer pants into the dryer with all my "whites", they will be doomed to getting brownish streaks due to the heavy load pushing them against the darned felt liner! Whenever possible, I wash susceptible items on permanent press to avoid wrinkling, then hang dry. Prior to putting these clothes in the dryer, I also "pre-clean" the felt with an old white cotton t-shirt by reaching into the dryer and rubbing along the felt edges until I'm not getting as much brownish color on the t-shirt rag. For a permanent fix, call a repairman or see the following do-it-yourself YouTube video on "Dryer Repair - Replacing the Lower Front Drum Felt Seal": http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XoYP_YsGP68 . I have a repair person coming today to fix 2 other appliances, so I'm finally getting my dryer fixed, and I will post an update soon.