Question about Specialized Stumpjumper FSR Expert Disc

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Renewed chain recently, but when every now and then when I put weight on the pedals the chain rides over the rear casette. Replaced the rear casette but still have the same problem.

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Assuming you replaced the chain because it was worn? The length of a chain increases as it wears, and the chain rings wear to match the longer chain. When you fit a new chain, it is shorter, doesn't fit the worn ring/s, and there is a risk that the chain will jump - most often on big and middle rings. If you let your chain wear a lot, you may need to replace your chain rings and possibly your cassette too,

Posted on Jan 22, 2015

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Maybe its running over the teeth of the chainring, huh?

I chased a problem like this forever until I realized it was always while using my middle ring.

Posted on Mar 13, 2011


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I have a Trek Lime bike with automatic shifter and it doesn't shift up quickly enough especially when riding slowly.

The automatic shifter mechanism on these bikes is driven by centrifugal force of weights near the rear axle. As they spin, they expand and move you to a higher gear. Although it's not a precise relationship, the mechanism is designed to shift to a gear that will give you a pretty constant pedal rpm - probably around 50 rpm. - regardless of the speed that the bike is moving. This is because as you ride longer distances your legs are most efficient at pedaling at a fairly constant speed (bikers call this cadence). Bikers who ride a lot find that these automatic shifters tend to keep you pedaling too slow (they find 70 rpm or even higher to be a better cadence.) However, if the cadence is too fast for you, you could alter the shift pattern by adding a bit more weight to the weights that are already there. You could do this with fishing weights and wire ties. This would give you a slower cadence. But as you ride the bike more you will probably find that you will want to remove the extra weights. I suggest that you keep riding without adding the weights and you will find that the preset cadence becomes more comfortable with time. It is also easier on your knees to have a faster cadence with lower pedal pressure. Good luck, Al K

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Your rear sprocket is worn. As your put the pressure on the pedals the chain is riding over the teeth and makes a crunching sound. The teeth could appear slightly hooked. You will probably find this does not happen in a different gear. You need to replace both the cassette (rear sprocket assembly) and the chain together because the chain wears to match the sprocket and if you just replace one you will still get the slipping. The front chain ring also wears but at a much slower than the rear so check it as well. Also check the rear derailleur that it is tensioning the chain correctly and not damaged or if the bike is a single speed the rear wheel is positioned to give the correct chain tension.

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1 Answer

I just replaced my offroad tires on my bike with road tires. Now I have a small, but noticeable, vibration in the pedals when I ride. Is this a derailleur issue?

It could be a d-rail, but also could be spokes, chain rub, wheel hitting a brake pad, tire clearance at frame, bearings.
Put your bike upside down so you can turn the pedals while you check for where this may be coming from.
Take your time... these noises can "telegraph' thru the frame and fool you so look for visible signs, use a little chain lube, oil , etc and you'll be able to pin point your noise.
I had an issue on my high end road bike.. a clicking while pedaling uphill...very annoying... turned out to be the added pressure caused the rear wheel spokes to click at the crossover point... a little heat shrink tubing did a nice alteration without a spoke pressure increase... So look around , start eliminating the possiblitites and you'll find it!

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1 Answer

I can not pedal back and the angle of the lower section is at a 45 degree angle more or less

Make sure your rear derailleur is lined up with one of the rings of teeth on your rear gears( cassette ). Also make sure Your chain is riding correctly on one of the front gears on your crank. If you are still unable to back pedal make sure that one of the cogs (gears) in the rear derailleur arm isn't seized. They must both be able to rotate and the chain should pass through them in a backward S pattern. If you still can't back pedal remove the back wheel or move the chain off the cassette to see if the cassette will freewheel. It has to move freely in a counterclockwise direction in order for you to backpedal. Moving in a clockwise direction engages pawls inside the cassette which lock it into a drive situation which propels the bike. If the cassette will not freewheel in a counterclockwise direction you will need to take the rear wheel to a good bicycle shop to have the cassette replaced. It requires a special tool to remove it. Hope this helps.

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Crank knocks on my electra hellbilly when i pedal hard

The Electra Hellbilly has a three piece crank/bottome bracket. There are many things that can cause a knocking noise on your bike. I will give you a few places that you can check but you may need to take it to your local bike shop.
1st. Check the pedals. Take a 15 mm open end wrench or pedal wrench and makes sure the pedal are tight. Also check the pedals for any play in the bearings or tight spots. If they seem to have any issues, try a new set of pedals. Test ride.
2nd. Make sure the crankarms are tight. Use a 14mm socket wrench. You may need to remove a cover over the nut with a small flat head screwdrive. If you have a torque wrench, they should be between 25 and 35 ft lbs. Test ride.
3rd. Check the chain tightness. It should have just a small amount of play in the chain. Also check the chain for tight links or bad links. Do this by either flipping the bike, putting it in a stand or having someone hold the rear of the bike up while pedaling and watching for the chain to not flow over the cog in the like the rest of the links. If you find a tight link you will have the work it loose by hand, going back and forth with the tight link your hand and lubing it with something like tri-flow. Test Ride.
4th. The last two solutions are better off adjusted but your local bike shop. You need to check the bottom bracket and rear hub. We can start with the hub. While standing over the rear wheel, move it side to side. If you feel any play then your hub is out of adjustment. Adjusting the hub requires cone wrenches so unless you have the tools it will be less expensive to have it done. For the bottom bracket, grab one of the crankarms and move it side to side, if there is any play here then it requires adjustment. Once again it requires special bicycle specific tools so it would be less expensive just to have the repair done.

Hope this helps. Let me know if you need any other help. You can contact me at Thank you

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1 Answer

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