Question about Hotpoint NVLR333EE Dryer

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Don't seem to get heat for the dryer. checked my fuses. all seens to be ok.

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  • Hotpoint Master
  • 1,525 Answers

Hello check the heat sensors there may 2 of them you will need a multimeter to test them if 1 is faulty change both of them. these will be located at the back of the dryer also check the element as well and make it's not the vent is not blocked hope it helps

regards
shaun

Posted on Mar 13, 2011

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

  • 641 Answers

SOURCE: Condenser Dryer turns but no heat

Check with multi-meter for power on the heating element's tags (115/220V). If it does get power,you should replace the heating element. In case of no power- you should replace the thermostat. Good luck!

Posted on Aug 04, 2007

  • 62 Answers

SOURCE: older kenmore electric dryer

This is a element problem, all you have to do is on your meter, is put it on tone, and ck both ends of element, it should beep.The easiest way is to pull off and ck coils for any breaks( look carefully). Make sure unplugged at all times.

Posted on Oct 22, 2008

  • 1738 Answers

SOURCE: frigidaire dryer no heat thermal fuse seems ok?

check your vent, make sure it is not plug with lent. If it is not then your heating elements.

Posted on Dec 06, 2009

Testimonial: "quick and great info"

hunter19_46m
  • 7482 Answers

SOURCE: I have a whirlpool dryer

ALWAYS UNPLUG YOUR DRYER BEFORE ATTEMPTING TO DO ANY WORK ON IT.
Check to make sure you are getting full 220 Volt power to the dryer, if you are then:
Check your Wiring
Often the main wiring connection from the house, at the dryer, burns and the connection breaks. If this has happened to your dryer, you need to replace the power cord and the terminal block inside the dryer to which the wire is attached.
Check the Door Switch
If the door switch or the door-switch actuator is defective, the dryer won't work and you need to replace the failed component. The switch is inside the dryer main housing near the door frame. Sometimes you need to raise or open the top or front of the dryer to reach the switch. Check for continuity you should have none with door open, and should have a reading when closed. If not replace the door switch.
Check to make sure you heating problem is not a lint build up in the discharge hose or the dryer,as this condition can cause heater/thermistor problems such as overheating of the heating coil leading to failure of the coil and burnout of the thermostat/thermistor due to overheat.
Remove the back/or front just under the door of the machine and try to locate the air duct going from the blower to the drum. Normally inside/outside the air duct you will find the heating coil and the thermostats/thermistors. Once you have located the heating coil, remove the two wires from it and check the coil with an ohm meter across the two terminals of the coil.
You should read continuity across the terminals, if not you will need to replace the coil as it is faulty.
If the heating coil is ok, then:
You can check the thermostat/thermistor one at a time by removing the two wires and taping them together with electrical tape and running the dryer to check to see if the element is red or not,
or with an ohm meter check the two terminals of the thermostat/thermister
after you have removed the wires, the thermostat/thermistor should have/show continuity across the terminals.
If the coil heats up, or the thermostat/thermistor shows an open circut
then replace the thermostat/thermistor as it is defective.
(Thermal fuse.If it overheats the dryer will not operate. It's located on the blower housing. It cannot be reset. A vent clogged with lint can cause it to overheat. You can test it with an Ohm meter or continuity checker, if no continuity, replace it)
DO NOT LEAVE THE WIRES TAPED TOGETHER AFTER THE TEST.
This could cause a FIRE, as you have removed the safety of overheat from the machine.
Right after replacing a dryer element, always run the dryer on 'air fluff' / 'no heat', and go outside to verify there's plenty of air coming out your vent system.
If the vent's clogged, that new element can burn out very quickly.
For video and pictures on how to replace the element go to the following website:
davesrepair.com/DIYhelp/DIYreplacingWPLdryels.htm
This is a FREE answer, Please rate me

Posted on Jan 01, 2011

  • 239 Answers

SOURCE: my sears kenmore elite he3

The most likely cause of this is the thermal fuse. It is mounted on the element housing, is inexpensive and easily replaced. It is available HERE for $20.75. It is accessed by removing the lower panel. Be sure to unplug the dryer before removing any panels.

Kelly

Posted on Mar 21, 2011

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My Bosch Nexxt 500 dryer stopped heating. All other functions work fine except heat. I've checked continuity on heating element & overtemp breaker- both OK. What else could be the problem? Fuse?


CONSIDER THIS
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Maybe you don''t have power to both legs of your receptacle. Both legs of the 220 volt AC have to work go get heat. Only one leg is used to run the motor etc.. Your motor runs so this can fool you into believing that the electrical connection is ok when it really is not. Your dryer is on a double circuit with two breakers. If one fails you lose one 110 volt leg which can be the one giving the full 220 Volt needed for the heater. This happens quite frequently and people mistakenly replace heating coils. You could have a bad breaker, one of the two. You must check this first before assuming anything else. Get help if you are uncomfortable with potentially deadly voltages

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I can tell you that chances are if the dryer heats, but just takes to long to get things dry the heating element is probably ok.
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You will want to check your vent for restrictions such as kinks or lint build up. Don't forget to check the outside hood as it has a flapper or even a screen that can catch lint.
If your vent is ok then you need to take the dryer apart and check for lint build up around the blower housing and fan.

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Kenmore Electric Dryer , 700 series, MOD 64722400 , SER MR4136705 , Type DWJR-ELE-2406028-FM64 . Dryer is not heating, checked fuse it's fine, cleaned every nook and cranny with a swifter duster and...


Hi.

Be sure that you have checked the thermal fuse. The part is tested using a multimeter set on Ohms (impedance). Remove the fuse from dryer and read impedance touching the fuse contacts with the two multimeter probes. If impedance is Ohm infinity (open), then the fuse is bad.

If the fuse is OK because tested good or replaced, then the problem is either one of the three thermostats located in the heating group, or the heating element. All parts are tested similarly to what described for the thermal fuse. If any of the parts read open (infinity), then the part is faulty. After finding the defective part remove all the lint from heating assembly and air duct. The lint causes overheating and blows thermostats, fuse or element.

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If the fuse has blown, it has no continuity. When this happens, your dryer either just stops heating, or it doesn't work at all. Be sure to inspect the venting/heating system before replacing the fuse to put the dryer back into operation. (You can't re-set this type of fuse.)
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check your vent, make sure it is not plug with lent. If it is not then your heating elements.

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