Makita table saw switch wiring
After much trial and error, a little smoke, and wrecking one replacement switch, I solved a similar problem with my Craftsman Cmpd Mitre saw. Different saw, but likely the same principles are involved.
If the switch is a double pole single throw switch, with one side normally open (N0) and the other normally closed (NC), and the saw has a separate wire for the brake, this will probably work.
One side of the switch should have contacts that are normally open (NO) and only connect when the switch is ON. The Hot (Black) wire from the plug connects to the wire on the machine side (red or maybe black) through this NO side. So, connect these two wires via this NO side and the saw will run when the switch is ON but will have no brake; so far so good.
There should be another wire (Not the neutral white) which is the brake wire. This gets connected to one of the connection sites of the Normally Closed (NC) side of the switch. From the other connection site of this NC side run a short "jumper" wire (of the same guage as the other wires) to the Machine Side of the NO side of the switch (same place as that Red or Black? wire above) .
What seems to happen is this:
There's no power to the machine or the brake when the switch is OFF. Turn it ON and power goes from Hot through the NO (now closed) side and the saw runs. The brake doesn't run when the saw runs because the NC switch is now open. Turn the switch OFF and the NC switch is in fact closed and power is transfered to the brake via the jumper wire from the still spinning armature which now acts as a generator (alternator?). Once the brake has done its job and the armature stops spinning there's no power anywhere until you turn the switch ON again.
Or at least that's the theory, and in my case it works; no more smoke.
Jan 07, 2009 |
Makita 2703 10" Table Saw, Electric Brake