LfAT 500 ABL won't spin. I need a schematic drawing. Motot coupler or belt.

check door switch, the motor coupler, belt, clutch etc

More than likely the transmission coupler has broke. Go to maytag.com and look up transmission coupler repair/ parts/ schematics. They really are not that hard to replace. Hope this helps, please post a comment that this is solved on fixya.com. So I get credit for a solved problem if it does. If not, check back and give me more info. And if you need help I will walk you through it.

see the next step and use the common sense: God bless you
Lid Switch
This is the most common reason for the washer not spinning or agitating. This is easy to check. You will need to remove the switch, this varies with model type but the testing will be the same. When the lid is closed the switch should have continuity when the lid is opend the switch should have no continuity. If it differs replace the Lid Switch.

Timer
To check the timer you will need to refer to the wiring diagram or disassemble to access the motor. Check the leads from the timer to the motor when turned to a wash cycle this should have 120 volts. If not replace the Timer, if it does the timer is not the problem.

Motor
To check the motor you will need to disassemble the washer to access the motor. First you can check the motor windings, to do this remove the plug and connect ohmeter to terminals. Refer to the tech sheet or service manual for the proper reading. Check motor for shorts by connecting ohmeter to terminals and motor housing should have no continuity. Connect voltmeter to motor wire connector and check for voltage. You should have 120 volts, if you do and the motor does not run replace the motor. If it does not have power the problem is elsewhere.

Belt
If your washer is a belt drive type make sure the belt is tight. Check for black soot from belt wear. Replace if it has excessive wear or broke.

Motor Coupler
This is a fairly common problem with direct drive machines but inexpensive and easy to replace. The Motor Coupler transfers power from the motor to the transmission. The following video will walk you through the replacement of the Motor Coupler.

Transmission
The transmission does not usually fail. To check this on a direct drive remove the motor and then turn tub inside. If it spins freely with no noise the problem is elsewhere. If it is noisy it needs replacing this is expensive and depending on the age of your machine you may not want to replace it. On a belt drive remove the belts and spin tub.

see this probably cause:
t doesn't pump or spin
frozen pulley or broken belt, replace
It pumps, but doesn't spin
lid switch defective,motor coupler defective,belt broken,clutch broken,drive motor defective.
It spins only with the lid closed
lid swtich defective.

Hello,

Its going to be the coupler very likely..your washer uses a coupler and does not have a belt.

This tip i wrote will help to show ya how to replace the coupler
http://www.fixya.com/support/r10293994-whirlpool_made_washer_not_agatating


GENE

Hi, if clothes are wet after spinning, check.......
Motor coupler To test the motor coupler, re-start the washer in its spin cycle. Let the machine run for a minute, and then open the lid and notice whether the tub is spinning: If it's spinning when you lift the lid, the coupler is fine. If it isn't spinning--and your machine was produced by Whirlpool you may have a broken coupler. Many Whirlpool-made washers use a small, relatively inexpensive device called a motor coupling. This plastic-and-rubber component is mounted to the shaft of the motor on one side, and to the transmission on the other. Over time, the coupler wears out and fails. When that happens, you need to replace it completely.

Spin cycle If the washer doesn't reach its proper spin speed, the clothes may be too wet at the end of a cycle. Check to be sure the load is properly balanced and run a spin cycle again. If the clothes are still wet, you may have a worn or loose belt (Maytag), a worn clutch (GE/Hotpoint), or a worn motor pulley or tub bearing. Replace the applicable component. Alternatively, there could be clothes caught between the inner and outer tubs. Read the "It spins but won't pump" section of the "It won't drain" section. Also, there could be other things that cause friction on the drive train. Seek the assistance of a qualified appliance repair technician.

Siphoning If the water that pumps from the machine goes right back into the machine after the spin cycle, it may be because your washer is siphoning the water from a laundry tub with a slow drain, back into the washer. Try to improve the draining of the laundry tub. (Is there something stuck in the drain?) Also, be sure the drain hose doesn't reach more than about 4 inches into the laundry tub. If it does, cut off the excess.

Water-inlet valve Water-inlet valves eventually fail. One problem that may develop with a water-inlet valve is that it can no longer completely shut off when the electricity is turned off to it. Then, the valve may leak and drip water into the clothes tub--you may notice that your washer has water in it when you haven't used it for a few days. To fix this, replace the valve.

Good for you. I don't think this model has a belt, I believe it is a direct drive with a coupler. Most likely, if you can hear the motor, the coupler has done it's job and sheared. The coupler is 20 bucks and my wife and I just changed ours out. I need the entire model number and I will get you the part schematic and we will get you going.

Sounds like the teeth are stripped underneath the blade. Make sure it's put together correctly before you do anything else.
Download Cuisinart CBT 500 Manual

HAPPILY WALKING ALONG AN THE MOTOR JUST STOPPED. aLL OTHER CONTROLS STILL WORK. jUST THE BELT AND MOTOT WON'T FUNCTION.

iS THERE A PART ON THE POWER SUPPLY THAT HAS BURNED OUT?

When the clothes are wet at the end of a cycle, check these:

Motor coupler
Spin cycle
Siphoning
Water-inlet valve
Motor coupler To test the motor coupler, re-start the washer in its spin cycle. Let the machine run for a minute, and then open the lid and notice whether the tub is spinning: 

• If it's spinning when you lift the lid, the coupler is fine.



• If it isn't spinning--and your machine was produced by Whirlpool®--you may have a broken coupler. Many Whirlpool-made washers use a small, relatively inexpensive device called a motor coupling. This plastic-and-rubber component is mounted to the shaft of the motor on one side, and to the transmission on the other. Over time, the coupler wears out and fails. When that happens, you need to replace it completely.

Spin cycle If the washer doesn't reach its proper spin speed, the clothes may be too wet at the end of a cycle. Check to be sure the load is properly balanced and run a spin cycle again. If the clothes are still wet, you may have a worn or loose belt (Maytag®), a worn clutch (GE®/Hotpoint®), or a worn motor pulley or tub bearing. Replace the applicable component. 

Alternatively, there could be clothes caught between the inner and outer tubs. Read the "It spins but won't pump" section of the "It won't drain" section. Also, there could be other things that cause friction on the drive train. Seek the assistance of a qualified appliance repair technician.

Siphoning If the water that pumps from the machine goes right back into the machine after the spin cycle, it may be because your washer is siphoning the water from a laundry tub with a slow drain, back into the washer. Try to improve the draining of the laundry tub. (Is there something stuck in the drain?) Also, be sure the drain hose doesn't reach more than about 4 inches into the laundry tub. If it does, cut off the excess.

Water-inlet valve Water-inlet valves eventually fail. One problem that may develop with a water-inlet valve is that it can no longer completely shut off when the electricity is turned off to it. Then, the valve may leak and drip water into the clothes tub--you may notice that your washer has water in it when you haven't used it for a few days. To fix this, replace the valve.