Question about Olympus OM-4TI 35mm SLR Camera

3 Answers

Om-4ti film advance lever will not advance. Shutter release does not operate. Batteries are new, battery test shows batteries are working. Meter appears to be working. Set shutter to "B" and also to "60", shutter did not reset.

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  • Eric Schmierer Mar 12, 2011

    om-4ti film advance lever will not advance. Shutter release does not operate. Batteries are new, battery test shows batteries are working. Meter appears to be working. Set shutter to "B" and also to "60", did not free film advance lever or re-set shutter release button. Camera remains on and I am able to see through viewfinder.

  • Eric Schmierer Mar 13, 2011

    This sounds like it may be the problem. I'll send the camera out for repair.

  • Eric Schmierer Mar 13, 2011

    Reasonable response, but I had done this when film advance stuck at frame 18.

  • Eric Schmierer Mar 16, 2011

    Good suggestion. However, it is not the cause of my problem, I have been shooting with an OM film slr camera since 1980. The problem persists after the film was rewound and the camera was empty. Took the camera to Camtech.

  • Eric Schmierer Mar 16, 2011

    Your evaluation matches that of John Hermanson at Camtech when I dropped off my OM-4Ti for CLA service.

  • Eric Schmierer Mar 16, 2011

    This agrees with the assessment of John Hermanson at Camtech when I delivered my OM-4Ti to him for CLA service. I asked the community for additional solutions prior to sending my camera for servicing just in case I had done something that was easily corrected myself.

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  • Olympus Master
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I don't know if this is you first film camera or if you've owned one for years - so pardon some beginner suggestion.

If there's film in the camera, you may have reached the end of the roll. What you're describing sounds very much like this is the case. There is a window to indicate of how many exposures have been taken next to the film advance lever. Most 35mm film manufacturers offer 12, 24 and 36 exposure rolls. Check to see the number shown in the window. If at the end of the roll, you may have advanced the film so far that the number is half in the display and half blocked.

If there is film in the camera and since it will no longer allow any more exposures, you'll need to remove the film. Locate and press the R button next to the film advance lever. Unfold the crank handle from the knob on the top of the left side of the camera (as viewed from behind - in picture taking position). Twist the crank in a clockwise direction (viewed from above) to rewind the film into the film canister. As you get closer to the end of the film, more resistance will be felt until finally, the handle spins freely. This indicates that all the film has been safely rewound and stored in the canister. Next, lift the knob that the crank attached to up and away from the camera body. The back door of the camera should pop open. You can now remove the film from the camera and have prints made from it.

You can get a copy of the manual for your camera here. There is no charge to download it - but a donation is accepted by the person that is making it available.

I hope this helps and good luck! Please rate my reply - thank you.

Posted on Mar 13, 2011

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  • Master
  • 3,006 Answers

Your camera will be at least a couple of decades old now and as it's a professional grade model was intended to be regularly serviced. The vast majority of SLR's never get any servicing so it's truly amazing that many are still fully functional.

In your case, the most likely cause of the fault is dried-out, gummed-up, lubricant films inside the mechanism, which may be complicated by either trapped dirt or other debris, mechanical wear and possibly broken components if you have tried to force the jammed controls. If not already done, then also ensure that the foam light seals and mirror buffers are replaced at the same time. The latter is a one-off job at a small additional cost as modern foam does not degrade into a corrosive sticky goo.

The OM4-ti is definitely not a DIY fix model, partially due to its complexity, partially due to the high residual value and finally due to the lack of spare parts. Your only safe option is to take the camera to a professional repairer who can show good familiarity with Olympus models, there are a few Olympus user forums online so I suggest that you make enquiries on them for recommendations. How far you're prepared to send your camera is your choice, but I live in England and regularly send my Ollies to a workshop in Malaysia as I know and trust them.

Hopefully your camera just needs a thorough CLA service (clean, lubricate, adjust) in which most of the old lubricant gets removed and replaced and all of the gummed up lube gets thoroughly cleaned off. The shutter magnets also get cleaned and the shutter timings checked. If there are worn or broken parts an Olympus specialist will usually have a stock of salvaged spares although some of the electronic parts (especially the main circuit boards) are getting as difficult to find as fresh dodos doodoos. Your fault is suggestive of a mechanical issue though.

If you decide to cut your losses then if your OM4-ti is otherwise in very good condition it can still fetch a fair price if sold online for spares/repairs. Nice though they are, I eventually reverted back to my trusty old OM2-n and although the meter is a lot simpler it produces equally good results when used intelligently. My very battered OM40 has ESP multi-pattern metering so often is just as good and faster to use than the OM4-ti, although doesn't feel as nice. The OM40 lacks the weather seals of the OM2/4 so is more at risk in damp environments, but it's never been a problem with mine as I now regard it as an expendable body anyway. You can pick up a fully working OM2-n or OM40 for far less than the cost of a CLA on yours, although they may still need the foam light seals to be replaced (DIY kits available for under $10 on auction websites).

Sorry this is probably not the instant cheap fix you hoped for, but there will always be products or problems where that's simply not possible. I hope that my answer makes sense and has provided you with alternative solutions to your problem.

Posted on Mar 15, 2011

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  • Master
  • 668 Answers

Hi,

The problem you describe indicates that inner switch mechanism is broken that's why when you change the lever the camera turns off. You need to replace the inner switch so it will work properly. You need to take to near by the service center to get it repaired. It will cost you around $20-30 to replace the switch.

Hope this helps.

Shane

Posted on Mar 12, 2011

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Use or buy a brand new battery from store that sell lot of them.

Do not get from store that only has a few, meaning they have been sitting there for years.

atdlee@netzero.com

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Film was in camera, frame 18. Batteries had failed at frame 17, had to depress "B Lock" button" and set shutter to 60 to release shutter. Replaced batteries with fresh batteries, battery...


This camera is somewhere between fifteen and thirty years old. It is highly unlikely that spares would be available, and it would be extremely expensive to have it repaired in any case, most artificers familiar with the internal layout having probably retired years ago. Maybe the camera should be retired too ?

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I put in new batteries but the film will not advance and the shuter will not work?


Film advance on your model is entirely mechanical and is not affected by the batteries, but it does interlock with the shutter mechanism which is entirely battery dependent.

Unfortunately, OM4's are were notorious for having a main circuit board which corroded. There were a number of revisions to the board and the OM4-ti had a major revision which improved things greatly but didn't fix it entirely. If the board's faulty, your camera has become a display piece only as it cannot be fixed and spares are impossible to obtain. It doesn't help that OM4-ti's were made in far fewer numbers than regular OM4's and that the boards are not interchangeable between them.

It is still possible though that the fault is due to the camera just needing a thorough CLA service (Clean, Lubricate, Adjust) but expect to find that some mechanical parts may need to be replaced, especially if the film advance has been forced. If the shutter assembly is faulty, then once again you're into rocking-horse poo territory as it's unique to the OM4-ti. They can't be obtained new any more, but they can be taken from scrap OM4-ti's which suffered circuit board failure.

Note that due to the complexity of this model most repairs are not a DIY option. Repairs will not be cheap, but an OM4-ti which is advertised for sale with proof of recent professional repairs and servicing by an Olympus specialist is worth a lot of money so is often a worthwhile investment.

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The film lever is also a switch. If you had advanced the film lever, **** it outward a little. You will feel the detent click somewhat when doing so. Leave the lever outward and see if the shutter will work. The detent is for appling an closed circuit for the light meter. When the lever is fully pushed back in it shuts the power to the meter on off to conserve battery power

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Is my ME Super toast?


It doesn't need batteries to shoot. You can use it on manual without batteries, but the exposure meter won't work (if you know what you're doing you can go by). But the stuck mirror should be fixed. It could be just plain dirty/rusty/bent etc.
The advance lever might be gone since it won't 'click'. A professional shop can fix it, but the one you tried doesn't sound very professional...

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Olympus om-4ti makes a screatching noise and stops working


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The faulty circuit board manifests in other ways, most commonly the dead display/non functioning shutter except for the mechanical default speed. I've heard of the screeching fault as part of this problem but have not personally encountered it.

The fault is irrepairable as replacement boards are fashioned of finest unobtanium; the same faults affect the OM-2sp as well. This is exactly why both cameras are now available far more cheaply as used buys: potential buyers who know these models are aware that they're taking a gamble.

There is a revision marking on the "good" boards but it's largely academic. Anyone with a "good" OM4 rarely sells it, and even the revised boards are old enough to have started deteriorating by now.

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1 Answer

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In most film cameras, a battery is not necessary to manual advance film using the lever. Your Canon AV-1 is no exception. I have owned two cameras from the same group, the AE-1 and the Canon A-1. Neither required a battery for manual film advance.

Make sure the ring around the shutter release button is set to "A", otherwise the shutter won't release and the film lever won't work correctly. If the ring shows an "L", the shutter release is locked.

Here's a graphic of the batteries that can be used in your AV-1:
46f1875.jpg

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Film = no light meter


jackson rook,

the speed of the film may be to high if your camera has dx coding contacts in the film chamber. otherwise---- film in camera or not it has no effect on meter operation. move the advance lever to the right slightly and push down on the shutter release button slightly to turn meter on.

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Set your camera to B and release the shutter ( camera will work in this mode without batteries ) if you can wind ok and release shutter fine then all you need is new batteries. If however your camera is not working when set to B then it is either the shutter or the transport mechanism that need looking at. From experience ( have repaired 100s of Me-supers ) it is likely that your shutter needs attention : rubber components ( and foam rubber ) inside the shutter ( and the mirror box locking mechanism especially ) have perished and need replacing.

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2 Answers

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Your camera is cocked but since the shutter is not working you cannot release it and hence your film advance mechanism does not work. ME-super will work without batteries in full manual mode so set your shutter to B and try to release it. If the shutter will not release in B mode then the shutter/mirror box will need servicing : rubber components in the mirror box mechanism have perished and need replacing. After that your camera will be fine for another couple of years.

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