Question about Olympus OM-4TI 35mm SLR Camera
I don't know if this is you first film camera or if you've owned one for years - so pardon some beginner suggestion.
If there's film in the camera, you may have reached the end of the roll. What you're describing sounds very much like this is the case. There is a window to indicate of how many exposures have been taken next to the film advance lever. Most 35mm film manufacturers offer 12, 24 and 36 exposure rolls. Check to see the number shown in the window. If at the end of the roll, you may have advanced the film so far that the number is half in the display and half blocked.
If there is film in the camera and since it will no longer allow any more exposures, you'll need to remove the film. Locate and press the R button next to the film advance lever. Unfold the crank handle from the knob on the top of the left side of the camera (as viewed from behind - in picture taking position). Twist the crank in a clockwise direction (viewed from above) to rewind the film into the film canister. As you get closer to the end of the film, more resistance will be felt until finally, the handle spins freely. This indicates that all the film has been safely rewound and stored in the canister. Next, lift the knob that the crank attached to up and away from the camera body. The back door of the camera should pop open. You can now remove the film from the camera and have prints made from it.
You can get a copy of the manual for your camera here. There is no charge to download it - but a donation is accepted by the person that is making it available.
I hope this helps and good luck! Please rate my reply - thank you.
Posted on Mar 13, 2011
Your camera will be at least a couple of decades old now and as it's a professional grade model was intended to be regularly serviced. The vast majority of SLR's never get any servicing so it's truly amazing that many are still fully functional.
In your case, the most likely cause of the fault is dried-out, gummed-up, lubricant films inside the mechanism, which may be complicated by either trapped dirt or other debris, mechanical wear and possibly broken components if you have tried to force the jammed controls. If not already done, then also ensure that the foam light seals and mirror buffers are replaced at the same time. The latter is a one-off job at a small additional cost as modern foam does not degrade into a corrosive sticky goo.
The OM4-ti is definitely not a DIY fix model, partially due to its complexity, partially due to the high residual value and finally due to the lack of spare parts. Your only safe option is to take the camera to a professional repairer who can show good familiarity with Olympus models, there are a few Olympus user forums online so I suggest that you make enquiries on them for recommendations. How far you're prepared to send your camera is your choice, but I live in England and regularly send my Ollies to a workshop in Malaysia as I know and trust them.
Hopefully your camera just needs a thorough CLA service (clean, lubricate, adjust) in which most of the old lubricant gets removed and replaced and all of the gummed up lube gets thoroughly cleaned off. The shutter magnets also get cleaned and the shutter timings checked. If there are worn or broken parts an Olympus specialist will usually have a stock of salvaged spares although some of the electronic parts (especially the main circuit boards) are getting as difficult to find as fresh dodos doodoos. Your fault is suggestive of a mechanical issue though.
If you decide to cut your losses then if your OM4-ti is otherwise in very good condition it can still fetch a fair price if sold online for spares/repairs. Nice though they are, I eventually reverted back to my trusty old OM2-n and although the meter is a lot simpler it produces equally good results when used intelligently. My very battered OM40 has ESP multi-pattern metering so often is just as good and faster to use than the OM4-ti, although doesn't feel as nice. The OM40 lacks the weather seals of the OM2/4 so is more at risk in damp environments, but it's never been a problem with mine as I now regard it as an expendable body anyway. You can pick up a fully working OM2-n or OM40 for far less than the cost of a CLA on yours, although they may still need the foam light seals to be replaced (DIY kits available for under $10 on auction websites).
Sorry this is probably not the instant cheap fix you hoped for, but there will always be products or problems where that's simply not possible. I hope that my answer makes sense and has provided you with alternative solutions to your problem.
Posted on Mar 15, 2011
The problem you describe indicates that inner switch mechanism is broken that's why when you change the lever the camera turns off. You need to replace the inner switch so it will work properly. You need to take to near by the service center to get it repaired. It will cost you around $20-30 to replace the switch.
Hope this helps.
Posted on Mar 12, 2011
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
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