Question about Cuisinart Kitchen Appliances - Others

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I mistakenly plugged my 110V cuisinart cbk 100 into a 220V socket. Any ideas bout how to go about repairing it?

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  • steve_cookso Mar 13, 2011

    Hi Azraelsrl,

    Thanks for getting back to me. Actually, the heater element protrudes from the side of the tub and is held in by two screws. It's true I'll need to take everything apart, but I'm OK with that. The issue is that I live in Brazil and everything needs to be shipped here. The original machine cost 80USD plus 80USD shipping 100 USD import tax - total 260 USD. If the controller board plus shipping costs less than 50 USD, there will be no tax, so I'd be OK with that. The heater element sounds more of an issue. Do you know where I can find the service manual for this? Really, I don't want to import another one, I'd just bin the whole idea.

    Thanks very much for your help.

    Steve.

  • steve_cookso Mar 13, 2011

    Whoops, posted the comment in wrong place.

    Hi Azraelsrl,

    Thanks for getting back to me. Actually, the heater element protrudes from the side of the tub and is held in by two screws. It's true I'll need to take everything apart, but I'm OK with that. The issue is that I live in Brazil and everything needs to be shipped here. The original machine cost 80USD plus 80USD shipping 100 USD import tax - total 260 USD. If the controller board plus shipping costs less than 50 USD, there will be no tax, so I'd be OK with that. The heater element sounds more of an issue. Do you know where I can find the service manual for this? Really, I don't want to import another one, I'd just bin the whole idea.

    Thanks very much for your help.

    Steve.

  • steve_cookso Mar 13, 2011

    Hi Azraelsrl, can you advise me where to start dismantling the machine? It's not so well put together. It looks as though the main tank is screwed in and that it should just unscrew and pull out. However it appears to need some force and the metal starts to twist. Am I starting in the right place? Thanks. Steve.

  • steve_cookso Mar 13, 2011

    Is there a service manual?

  • steve_cookso Mar 14, 2011

    Hi Azraelsrl, well I've just got to the element and tested it. it has a resistance of about 38-40 Ohms which at 110-120 volts would make it about 300-380w according to my calculations. The machine is rated as 500w, so it's not far out. I guess the element is working. The power source is harder to get to, but I can probably do it. My only slight concern is how I can test a transformer while it's still soldered to the board. Maybe if I can isolate the board I can just connect up the mains and test the outputs. What do you think? It's many years since I got this deep into a machine! Anyhow, it's getting late here. I'll try again tomorrow. Thanks for all your help. Steve.

  • steve_cookso Mar 14, 2011

    Hi Guru, thanks for your email. The original cost was 80 USD plus 80 USD shipping 100 USD Brazilian import tax - total 260 USD. You think the parts will come to more than that? The labour will be a few hours tinkering with it, plus the fee for FixYa. Regards. Steve.

  • steve_cookso Mar 26, 2011

    Hi Azraelsrl, well to continue the saga. The kids have gone to a party and I've had some more time to look into the machine. The order of dismantling seems to be as follows 1) Pull out the cooking tub. 2) Unscrew the one screw holding the electronic panel and unclip the panel from the PCP inside. You can now put this to one side. 3) Unscrew the supporting tub which holds the element both at the top and with the four screes that hold it in place at the bottom around the mixer wheel, not the wheel itself which is held in by three smaller screws. Use long-nose pliers to unclip the heater element (retract the insualtion so that you can see what you are doing). Unscrew the bolt holding the red insulation wire next to the thermocouple and screw the bolt back in so you don't loose it. Unclip the thermo-couple from the PCB and lay the inner tub to one side. 6) Unscrew two bolts holding the PCB and pull out the PCB. It has three remaining wires attached to it. Unclip the white clip, it has a unique plug. There are three coloured cables, red, Green and Black. Mark the PCB with felt-tip pens, RGB so you know where to reinsert the cables and unclip them.

    The bas board is now accessible. I want to remove it from the base, but it has a number of moving parts. I am worried that if I remove them I will not be able to reinsert them. What is your view.

    I am beginning to come round to the view that I need a new machine, but lets wait a little longer.

    Regards

    Steve

  • steve_cookso Mar 26, 2011

    OK, well we have a little progress. I took out all the screws of the baseboard with no problem. Firstly the main PCB components are rated at 250v, so hopefully the board will not have blown. We shall see. The control panel links to the PCB, so that is still an open question. There is a large capacitor also rated at 250v. Fingers crossed. There is a 120v:12v transformer which is burnt out. It is a standard transformer, I'm sure I can get it here. I'll replace this and see what happens. The motor is also 120v. I'm a little nervous that this may have burnt out too. But one thing at a time. Steve

  • steve_cookso Mar 26, 2011

    I should have added (for my own reference as much as for future visitors, that the baseplate was fairly easy to unscrew and nothing fell apart. If you take it apart bit by bit, there is another screw to the sidewall behind the motor and you need to remove the baseplate to access this. Having removed both the sidewall and the baseplate, everything is easy to access. The transformer is directly connected to the mains and the underside of the output plug showed no voltage on testing with a multimeter.

  • steve_cookso Mar 26, 2011

    Ah yes, the 220v socket. I have placed a prominent 220v label on it and I don't propose to use it except for a few power tools that require it. I'm going to continue with the 110v, so I guess the transformer should also be 110v. However the recoiling. I've never heard of that. I'll look up the Portuguese for recoil. Is this a common operation? I don't know how easy that will be here. I'll compare the costs of getting it done in the US, with getting it done in Brazil. Will a new motor be more expensive? Steve

  • steve_cookso Apr 16, 2011

    Hi Azraelsrl, well, amazingly to me, I went to a shop called 'house of power supplies' they directed me to technical support, who recoiled my transformer!!!! I think I wouldn't have even understood what they were talking about if you hadn't prepared me. It cost about $12! Anyhow today, I installed it and everything sprang back to life! Result! Anyhow, I still need to do a proper test. It's still possible that something else burned out (eg motor). So I'll have a go after the weekend. My thanks and congratulations to Azraelsrl. I'll give proper feedback when I've tested the machine. Regards, Steve.

  • steve_cookso Apr 16, 2011

    Certainly, but where is the accept button!!

  • steve_cookso Apr 16, 2011

    Well I can see a thumbs up saying not rated, but it doesn't work in Firefox or IE on Linux or XP

  • steve_cookso Apr 17, 2011

    I now have a loaf of break cooked on my perfectly functioning machine. The mix isn't quite right, but the machine functioned perfectly. Thanks for all your help. I still haven't managed to 'accept' your answer, sorry. I will do so as soon as someone tells me how. Thanks Steve.

  • steve_cookso Apr 17, 2011

    Hi, it would seem I can't reject either :(

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You're better off replacing it. It will cost you more in parts & labor to repair.

Posted on Mar 14, 2011

  • Mical Caterina
    Mical Caterina Mar 14, 2011

    I wasn't aware you were in Brazil. Here in US, it would be more expensive to repair than replace.

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When the incorrect voltage was applied 2 distinct components were fried - the controller board and the heating resistance.
While the control board can be easily and cheaply replaced (just some screws and a couple of connectors to take out + a new $30 part) this is not the case for the resistance - it is embedded in the walls of the tub and cannot be replaced without changing the entire tub. For that the entire unit will have to be completely dismantled and the part itself will cost almost as much as an entire new unit.
It will be cheaper in the end just to buy a new $120 breadmaker than to fix this one.

Posted on Mar 13, 2011

  • 8 more comments 
  • Azrael SRL Mar 13, 2011

    They have changed it from the last time i worked on one of these - they used to be soldered to the tub. If you don't mind tinkering with it then you should start testing the parts with an multimeter to identify the failed parts: start with the power source (the transformer and all the rest) then the resistor and finally the motors. If it's the board the only way to obtain a replacement part is to order it directly at Cuisinart (they do not sell parts to online dealers) - contact them at 1-800-726-0190 or send a letter to Cuisinart
    150 Milford Road
    East Windsor, NJ 08520

  • Azrael SRL Mar 13, 2011

    No, there is no service manual, at least to my knowledge. Remove the lid first, then the bottom - remove the brakets, then the pan.

  • Azrael SRL Mar 14, 2011

    Yes, you are correct on both: the value of the resistance is correct and this is how you test the transformer.

  • Azrael SRL Mar 26, 2011

    Those parts are contacts, there are relatively easy to reinstall simply by clipping. But you should be able to take it out without having to remove them. In any you have nothing to lose trying - your unit is already defective.

  • Azrael SRL Mar 26, 2011

    Actually you should get a 220v to 12v transformer. The motor will almost surely be burned, but it can be recoiled - there are repair shops that are specialized in that. In Brazil this will be a lot cheaper than to replace the engine - and they will recoil it at 220v.

  • Azrael SRL Mar 26, 2011

    And please don't forget to accept the answer that helped you .

  • Azrael SRL Mar 26, 2011

    In a recoiling the engine is effectively remanufactured - a labour intensive job. Yes, it's a quite common job for the bigger/professional ones and for a lot of customer ones also. Getting it done in US is out of the question - they are no more shops that do it left - in there the cost of labour has made it cheaper to replace it. No, in Brazil the labour is cheap so it should cost less than importing one from the US.

  • Azrael SRL Apr 16, 2011

    In that case would you please accept my answer?

  • Azrael SRL Apr 16, 2011

    Right next to my answer - from what i know now (after the latest redesign) it's labeled Rating .

  • Azrael SRL Apr 17, 2011

    This new interface is a mess, as soon as i found out myself i'll tell you. In the mean time you could try to reject the other reply, in that case it will go by default to me - or it used to do that, now i don't know for sure.

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