Ld error and now washer won't function

hi shotgun - sometimes the mieles with auto adjustment functions do make changes to the wash time - usually based on a smart sensor technology.

Unfortunately I have no data or information for your particular model, I have info on earlier & the latest models only. In hindsight what this function does is adjust water levels based on the load weight or amount of the wash, the computer then calibrates the water levels and accordingly the amount of time to wash.

Eg - 4 kg load would be longer than say a load 1.5kg to process - if can understand this concept. However I cannot be 100% certain it applies to your particular model, if the user manual is availbel it may just pay to read thru in case it applies to the washer.

LD = Long Drain "Ld" flashes if it takes longer than 5 minutes to pump out water to a point where the operating pressure switch resets. Press STOP/CANCEL to clear the display
I don't see an CO error. Here is a complete service manual for your washer. I am sure it will come in handy in the future. Look on page 46 for a list of the error codes.
Regards, Rich

LD stands for long drain.  probably either a clog in the pump or a bad water pump itself..

LD code is long drain,one of two things the drain pump is frozen and need to be replaced or there is somthing in the pump.Pull the washer away from the wall a bit and get a bunch of towels.Lean the washer back against the wall towards the middle in the back you will see the pump take it apart and find the clog.

The error code LD means long drain and appears if it takes more than five minutes to pump the water out of the machine. As the water level in the tub falls, the operating pressure switch should reset to allow filling for the next cycle or a new load. Check the operating pressure switch and replace it if necessary.

Below is the procedure and checking and replacing the operating pressure switch.

1. Unplug the machine.
2. Insert a putty knife at the front corners between the bottom of the console and the top of the washer.
3. Push the spring clip back far enough with the putty knife to release it from the slot on the top of the washer.
4. Tip back the console then lift it to release its rear mounting tab from the slot on the top of the washer.
5. Lay the console facing down the top of the washer.
6. Remove the six screws securing the rear console panel and remove the panel.
7. Look for the two components on the right side of the console with mark OPR and FLD, respectively. The one marked OPR is the operating pressure switch (part #829864) and the other one is the overfill pressure switch (part #829865).
8. Disconnect the wiring harness connectors from the terminals of the pressure switches.
9. Check the continuity between the terminals of each switch using a multimeter. Resistance reading is zero if the switch is good and reads open if not.
10. Depress the locking tab on the side of the switch and turn it 90 degrees in either direction.
11. Pull the switch from the console mounting plate.
12. Install the new switch and the console in reverse order of the procedure above.
    

"Ld" (Long Drain) flashes
Is the drain hose kinked or clogged?
Press STOP/CANCEL to clear the display.
• "CA" or "Cl" (Current Limit)
Is the washer overloaded?
Press STOP/CANCEL to clear the display.

Here is a manual:

http://www.managemyhome.com/mmh/lis_pdf/OWNM/L0102048.pdf

See page 17.

Ld Long drain "Ld" flashes if it takes longer than 5 minutes to pump out water to a point where the operating pressure switch resets.

Press STOP/CANCEL to clear the display.

“F21” (AKA SD) is a Long (SLOW) Drain error (LD). If the drain time exceeds 8 minutes this error code will be displayed. In addition, a “SUDS” error may also be displayed. This may be an indication of a drain pump problem and/or clog in the drain line. You will need to check the following:


1.First, attempt to unplug the washer for at LEAST 30 minutes to reset the Central Control Unit (CCU). Sometimes this is all that is required to correct momentary glitches with the unit. If the error code returns, proceed to step 2.
2.Check the drain hose to make sure it is not kinked or clogged.
3.Check the electrical connections to the pump and ensure the pump is running.
4.Remove the drain pump filter and check for foreign objects and/or debris.
To check the drain pump, click on the following link for step-by-step instructions

http://www.fixya.com/support/r385844-checking_drain_pump_kenmore_elite_front

If the above procedures do not correct the problem, it is recommended by the manufacturer to replace the drain pump.

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"F21" (AKA SD) is a Long (SLOW) Drain error (LD). If the drain time exceeds 8 minutes this error code will be displayed. In addition, a "SUDS" error may also be displayed. This may be an indication of a drain pump problem and/or clog in the drain line. You will need to check the following:


1.First, attempt to unplug the washer for at LEAST 30 minutes to reset the Central Control Unit (CCU). Sometimes this is all that is required to correct momentary glitches with the unit. If the error code returns, proceed to step 2.
2.Check the drain hose to make sure it is not kinked or clogged.
3.Check the electrical connections to the pump and ensure the pump is running.
4.Remove the drain pump filter and check for foreign objects and/or debris.
To check the drain pump...



If you experience a problem where the washer does not drain properly or the drain pump makes excessive noise, here's the information you need to check the drain pump:

Symptom: PUMP IS RUNNING, BUT NOT DRAINING PROPERLY.

1. Unplug the washer while servicing inside the unit.
2. Remove the lower kick panel under the door by removing the three 7mm screws under the bottom edge of the panel. HINT: Use a couple of blocks of wood to prop up the front feet of the washer to gain better access to the screws. Once the screws are removed the panel should drop down, and then pull off. If the panel becomes stuck, a slight tap on either side will dislodge it.
3. Locate the drain pump. It will be located directly under the wash tub (it is the only pump this washer has).
4. There is an access removal cover on the pump that can be removed to clean out the trap. BEFORE doing this, it is strongly recommended that you remove all residual water from the wash tub & drain line or you will have about a gallon or so inside your washer and on the floor to clean up.
5. Here's a helpful way of quickly removing the residual water. If you own a wet/dry shop vac, remove the drain hose from the standpipe at the wall and pull a vacuum with the shop vac. This will empty the wash tub, pump and drain lines. If you don't own a shop vac, grab a bunch of old towels and open the access on the pump slowly so that it comes out at a trickle. Allow the towels to soak up the majority of the water. Close the access and stop the water if you need to get additional towels.
6. Open the pump access and remove once you have all the water drained. Check the drain pump for foreign objects and debris. Check the pump impeller and make sure there's nothing caught in it. Items as small as toothpicks or cotton swabs have been known to stop this pump from working.
7. Clean out the pump thoroughly and reinstall the access cover. Make sure the cover is snug, but do not over tighten.
8. Place the drain hose back in the standpipe (IMPORTANT - DO NOT FORGET!).
9. With the bottom panel still off, plug the washer back in and select the following on the operator console - DRAIN SPIN, NO SPIN, and then press any button under OPTIONS 4 times (it must be the same button). "C00" will show on the console display as the washer begins diagnostics mode.
10. Check the drain pump for leaks as the washer fills. The pump is gravity filled and will hold water even it is not pumping. Allow washer to run through diagnostics until it begins the wash tub tumble cycle.
11. At this point, you can stop the diagnostics procedure by pressing PAUSE/CANCEL 2 times. The drain pump energizes and the washer will begin to drain.
12. If the drain pump works normal and there are no leaks detected, reinstall the bottom panel and tighten screws.


NOTE: It is normal to have residual water left inside the wash tub under the wash basket. This is why it is important to leave the door ajar when not in use so this water does not become sour.

http://media.fotki.com/1_p,wktwwdgrkbbfrdgxgtqsskgwtqkq,vi/kstdgfskbxktqtggsqb/1/1303472/5961857/image64920img-or.gif



If the above procedures do not correct the problem, it is recommended by the manufacturer to replace the drain pump.

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problem started when washer started itself up twice in the middle of the night....after that the washer seems to have problems figuring out what it wants to do...when running a wash it will start, run for 2 minutes then start scanning numbers...it does not land on a code...it will spin, stop, start...sears has replaced the mother board 3 times....and we will be phoning them again as it has not fixed the problem..one other time it did not spin properly and clothes were wet...we have a dedicated surge protector on it...we have had our electrical checked and no problems there...sears confirmed that as well..the techs have given up on it and don't know what to do with anymore...it is still under warranty and now costing sears more to service it then replace it....time for them to do the right thing and "take it back"...very disappointed in this washer...wish me luck when i call them again...they must be sick of hearing from me....lol