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I bought a Parkside pressure cleaner,but I have no idea how has to be connecting?Becouse I can't connect by top water.Probably has to be connecting where is washing machine?Help me.Thank you.

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You need a garden hose and outdoor spigot although it is possible to connect where the washer connects but is a real pain. You can also get an adapter to connect a garden hose to your "Tap Water" faucet but it is not recommended as you will likely break the faucet off.

Posted on Mar 12, 2011

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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I have installed a Grundfos CH2050PT pressure booster system at my home (3 stories). The pumps is installed at ground level and is connected to the main water tank (source of water). The pressure is...


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I have a hotpoint hot water heater it's about 6 years old. When I turn the hot water on it runs very slowly the water pressure is very low and it's like this throughout the house how do I fix this problem...


You have clog in the water line.
Since all hot water pipes are involved, clog is probably near water heater.

Buy pressure gauge at hardware store that threads onto hose connection.
Brady BTG 100 at Amazon
Picture of gauge

Check outdoor pressure for baseline pressure in your home.
Turn off electricity to hot water heater for an hour or two so there is not scalding water.
Open drain valve on water heater to see if water heater is clogged with sediment.
http://waterheatertimer.org/Water-heater-will-not-drain.html

Put pressure gauge on drain valve and compare with outside pressure.
Open hot water spigot on bathtub and see if tank pressure drops ... if tank pressure drops significantly with bathtub spigot on, then clog is on incoming cold water before tank, and could be on outgoing hot water pipes too.
If tank pressure stays about the same, then clog is on outgoing hot water pipes.

Clog can be sediment caught in cold water shut off valve located above tank. Open and close valve and test pressure again. Take apart incoming cold water pipes above tank and check for sediment. Replace valve. Look at condition of cold water nipple on top of tank.

Sediment caught at hot water elbow near tank.
Sediment can fill up old pipes. Take apart hot water pipes above water heater and see condition.
Look at condition of hot water nipple on top of tank.
You may have to take apart pipes up to first or second elbow.

Pipes can decay at joint where copper pipe connects to galvanized pipe. Check for copper to galvanized connections on cold or hot pipes and replace section of galvanized pipe. Copper pipe will probably be good, the galvanized pipe will deteriorate. Replace copper-to-galvanized joint with 3/4" non-conducting union from hardware store

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The booster pump is running but low pressure


this could be two problems first is pump basket filled to top with water if not you have a air leak check all connections the other is filter is dirty especially de filter backwash hope it helps

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My pump pressure is 10psi i cleaned the de filters they seem fine i have good floe out of my jets but when i hook the pool cleaner up pressure drops to almost nothing. could my impeller be the problem


The pressure you are reading is the pressure in the filter tank as water is pumped though it. When the filter is freshly charged, 9 PSI is a good pressure.

As the filter removes particles from the water the filter gets "dirty" -- it takes more pressure to push the water through it thus raising the PSI.

I think you are viewing this in reverse. Low filter pressure is "good" (as long as it stays above 8 PSI) -- as the filter cleans the water the PSI will increase -- when it gets to 15-20 PSI it needs to be back-washed and recharged.

The pressure drops when the pool cleaner is connected because pool cleaners always pull in air (in varying amounts) because of all the hose connections. This causes your filter/tank pressure to drop.

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I'm not familiar with your model washer, but most overfill problems are attributed to either a fill valve that does not shut off properly (this is where the fill hoses connect to), or a pressure switch malfunction. The pressure switch is what determines at what point the washer shuts off. Since you just bought the washer, I'm assuming the water inlet valve is probably NOT an issue, because the problem I mention with it not shutting off, is usually attributed to sediment build up. The pressure switch is controlled by a pressure hose and an electrical connection. If the electrical connection is intact (no corrosion or broken wires) and the air hose is connected and has no holes or slits, I would rule that you may have a bad pressure switch. However...It is common for the air air hose to come loose on the pressure switch and fall off. This can happen through normal use due to vibration, or during shipping. The result: a pressure switch that no longer senses the water level and will not shut off. This is easily resolved by re-attaching the air hose. What appears to be a very serious problem can often be something as simple as reconnecting a hose. Now...if you just bought the appliance, I would NOT recommend you open it to inspect. Most appliances come with a limited one-year manufacturers warranty. You can void this warranty by opening the appliance. This is the only time I would recommend you place a service call. I know this may be an inconvenience to you, but the service should be FREE if still under warranty. If you end up damaging something attempting a repair on your own, the repair would be YOUR responsibility. If you cannot find your sales receipt, the appliance serial number will determine the manufactured date and the warranty should STILL be honored. I hope this helps you. Let me know if you still have questions.

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