Question about Samsung Refrigerators

3 Answers

The power is on to fridge and I can hear something maybe fan but stopped cooling. Noticed ice melting last night and this am freezer temp and fridge temp way up.

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  • briancalfee Mar 14, 2011

    trying the unplug with doors open solution. I noticed after resetting yesterday by unplugging for 10 min that when it came back on, I turned off the energy save feature and the temps started coming down on the display. Fridge was 70 and freezer was 65. They came down to 38 and -2, but when I opened the doors, the temp was unchanged. Weird. I printed out a service manual in case I need to do more diagnostics.

  • briancalfee Mar 14, 2011

    I have unplugged it and let it sit with the doors open. How can I pinpoint if the problem is computer related or if it is the compressor?

  • briancalfee Mar 15, 2011

    The fridge/freezer did not work after plugging back in. Temps remain at 70 for both. The compressor fan comes on when I plug it back in, but the compressor does not. I checked to see if the relay for the compressor is getting power and it is. So is the relay bad, or could it be some other computer chip like the mother board is not communicating with relay or maybe bad compressor? There appears to be some way I can check the compressor in "manual mode", but I'm not sure how to do that. ???

  • briancalfee Mar 15, 2011

    Yes, I did this last night finding that there was power getting to relay, but compressor not on. I would like to say that relay is bad and a new one will fix, but there are 5 wires coming into relay, so I thought maybe it is some other component that is failing to send the message to compressor to kick in. There is supposed to be a manual mode, but I have not figured this out yet. I will attempt to familiarize myself with that today to eliminate the compressor. If it is compressor then I am covered, but if not, then it's on me to swap out whatever. Thank you, I am getting closer to figuring this out. Brian

  • briancalfee Mar 15, 2011

    First, thank you to zee711, rickead1, and ZJLimited. Here is where I am currently on this 2009 black Friday purchase at Best buy that I have only had out of the box for 4 months. It is a Samsung RF267AERS/XAA. There is no cold air in fridge or freezer. I have not felt or heard compressor working since this happened. The compressor fan does work. I checked the relay and it gets power right up to where it connects to the compressor. I put the fridge in manual mode as outlined in the service manual for this model and still the compressor did not work. I found a troubleshooting flow chart for compressor not operating on page 73 of the service manual and I tried to follow it as best I could. Once I got past the compressor not working in manual mode, it asks if the IC02 MICOM #8 is high?(5V), but what is that? It shows it on the bottom of page 73 where someone is testing with a voltage meter, but there is nothing on the mother board that looks like that. The board in the pic does not match mine. Then if you go through this chart, I do not see where the solution is to replace the compressor. It seems the only solutions are replacing puter parts. At the very end it does say replace COMP ***'Y. Could this mean the compressor assembly and is that the compressor or just the relay? I am under warranty if in fact the issue is the compressor. Also the 5th item down on this chart is to check if the CN71 connector is normal. It is. I could find that. Noone at Samsung could tell me what a MICOM or a PCB or a IC 72 Driver IC is. Those are all items that the chart may direct me to replace. The PCB appears to be the entire mother board. Any help to direct me to the suspect in this mystery is greatly appreciated and well deserving of my praise and pittance of a reward. Sorry for the pittance.

  • briancalfee Mar 15, 2011

    The manual I was referring to I found online. It is a service guide. That "COMP A55'Y" is maybe compressor assembly but I'm not sure. I substituted 5's for capital s this time in case website took them out. I'll check out that link you posted.

  • briancalfee Mar 15, 2011

    I don't think it is a defrost problem. The unit has been off since this started. I only turn it on to check the compressor or voltage. No change. The compressor never kicks on, even when I put the fridge in manual mode. It has to be a computer problem or the compressor. I think.

  • briancalfee Mar 15, 2011

    That is beyond my ability. How can I do that? There are five wires coming into the relay that plugs into the compressor.

  • briancalfee Mar 16, 2011

    Ok, I have an idea in my head how I can check that, but my ideas are not always correct. How can I do that? The relay that plugs into the compressor has three female connectors. Two are on the bottom and one on top. I was thinking to check what you said, I would stick the voltage meter in one or each of the slots to see if power is coming through???

  • briancalfee Mar 16, 2011

    I could not look at that diagram without joining a subscription. Does that diagram lookndifferent than the one in the service manual? I would like to check the voltages of the IC02 MICOM #8 and the IC72 #15 so I can be done with this and order a part or have Service replace compressor. I just cant find these things on my board.

  • briancalfee Mar 17, 2011

    I tried again when I got home yesterday and was able to see it briefly before I had to turn on Japanese news. That is all we have been watching these days. I am trying now at work with no success. It keeps bringing up the subscription page with no option to pass or move on. My email is my nickname at gmail. What I could see yesterday did not look exactly like what i see on the back of the fridge. In the service manual it shows the PCB to be the main computer panel that is about 8" by 10" with many connectors on it. Above that is the PCB Inverter that is smaller more like a 3" by 5". The MICOM and the IC02 are confusing me. I wonder if those are items on the PCB that can be taken off and replaced individually?? On the Troubleshooting page 73 of service manual on the flow chart once you get pass he compressor not working in manual mode, it asks if the ICO2 MICOM #8 is high (5V)? If no, then it says replace the PCB and MICOM. If yes it directs you to check if IC72 #15 is about .8V. If no, then I am to replace the IC72 Driver IC(TD62083AP) and replace PCB. Based on the puter parts on this fridge I have seen. The MICOM and IC72 Driver would have to be on the smaller board unless those are referring to other parts...confusing ..
    Thank you for sticking with me on this...I am close

  • briancalfee Mar 17, 2011

    I did check for power to the relay and it was getting power, however I do not know how to check if messages are getting through the relay. There are 5 wires going in to the relay. I am thinking now that there may be a board under the PCB because the parts breakdown pic shows more than just the PCB. When I look at the PCB I do not see those items to check their voltage. That is where I am stuck. I need direction to find those two locations or perhaps a way to see that the relay is passing on the signal for the compressor to kick on, but compressor is not able to. Thanks for parts link. I will check on it.

  • briancalfee Mar 18, 2011

    Hey Rick, thank you for the info. I called and it would be 115 for a new PCB and a new relay. I looked and located the IC72 on the PCB, but no MICOM. I tried checking for the .8V on that but i am not sure what I need to set my meter to. I tried setting it to AC 10 and I got nothing. I tried setting it to DC10 and the meter shot all the way over to the other side. (not digital) So here is what I need to know. Without this flow chart since I can not locate the IC02 MICOM #8, how can I be sure the problem lies in the board or relay and not the compressor? I can not return the parts once I install them. I guess if that is too difficult I could just go for the parts and if fridge still does not work, just save them.

  • briancalfee Mar 19, 2011

    I am not technical enough to be able to jump the wires for the relay as you said. I did call marcone, thank you. They won't take the items back if I install them. When I checked power to the relay, there was 120 going to the brown wire that attaches to a white clip that slips onto a metal prong. I don't see how that power gets to the compressor. The 3 wires that went to the female end that plugs into the compressor had no power coming from the fridge. I guess there is a relay and an overload. I don't really understand which is which or how they work. Am I right to assume that my problem is one of three things here? The relay, the board, or the compressor. The fan turns on every time I plug in the fridge.

  • briancalfee Mar 19, 2011

    Yes, I have seen this page and my relay is not labeled like that and does not have a coil. If you are not sure how to walk me through testing this relay or testing the PCB, then I am thinking to go ahead and order the relay an PCB and give them a try one at a time and then call service if no luck there. Only fear is if those don't work and they come out and say there is a problem with some sensor in the fridge, then I am out alot more than I need to be. Thnks again for stickn this one out. All the beer you can drink. You wanna stop by?

  • briancalfee Mar 20, 2011

    I'm in northern VA and we are currently serving Smithwicks and Sierra Nevada. I will give it a shake. I was talking to my old neighbor about this blasted relay/overload protector thing that I just don't understand. I can take a pic of it with my phone and send to you if that would help. I don't get how come the brown wire that brings 115V is connect to the piece on the top(don't know which is relay and which is o/l protector), but there is no metal connections between top piece and the piece that actually plugs into the compressor. So that makes me think that the board is not sending a signal to power the compressor. But is there supposed to be a constant 115 going to the o/l and then the relay gets intermittent 115 depending on sensor readings? Anyway, I will give it a shake. I'll give the fridge a shake to if that will help.

  • briancalfee Mar 21, 2011

    Thank you for sticking with me on this. I ordered a new relay and will advise of the result once I put it on.

  • briancalfee Oct 16, 2011

    This problem turned out to be 1 small fuse in one of the computer boards was bad. So after a $130 service call I fixed it myself with a 70 cent fuse. Yea!

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3 Answers

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  • Master
  • 1,998 Answers

Im not sure what you are able to hear but what I would do is remove both the rear panel in the back of the machine and assure that the compressor fan is running and go inside of the freezer area there is a panel in the rear of the freezer that you take off giving you access to the condensor. Assure that there is no ice build up around the condensor and that the fan is working inside this compartment as well. IF you have no ice and the fan is working but your freezer is not getting cold then you would have a compressor issue where as you could possibly test the start relay click this link http://www.acmehowto.com/howto/appliance/refrigerator/check/overload.php note shown is an older model but the test is pretty much the same if the start relay is fine then you would need to call a techncian to check your sealed system aka your compressor if you have any further questions please message me back and please remember to rank how this opinion has helped when our chat has fully concluded Thanks Rick

Posted on Mar 14, 2011

  • 11 more comments 
  • Rick Ead
    Rick Ead Mar 15, 2011

    the ico2 is shown on this diagram http://www.docstoc.com/docs/4207309/PCB-...***-Y-MAIN-PCB-s-TOP-Samsung sec going to go read the rest of you post Thanks Rick

  • Rick Ead
    Rick Ead Mar 15, 2011

    they offer a 12 month warranty on the unit unless you buy the extended warranty. question you wrote " It seems the only solutions are replacing puter parts. At the very end it does say replace COMP ***'Y. Does that say compressor assembly Im not able to see this book your talking about because you gave no reference if its a service manual or regualr manual message me back with what you wrote Thanks Rick

  • Rick Ead
    Rick Ead Mar 16, 2011

    this is sounding like that board is bad you wrote earlier that you checked the start relay did you also check to assure that power is going through the start relay if not then it would definetly be the board and yes comp assy would be compressor assembly which would refer to replacing the bulb on the compressor but assure first that power is going through the start relay I await your reply Thanks Rick

  • Rick Ead
    Rick Ead Mar 16, 2011

    you would stick the meter on the wires the wires are whats carrying the power to the compressor and then you would be able to tell if you are getting power to the compressors start relay if not then you would have a bad board if you are then most likely if the relay is good then you have a seized bulb on the compressor Message me back when you complete your tests Thanks Rick

  • Rick Ead
    Rick Ead Mar 16, 2011

    that is weird i dont have to join anything to see the diagram of the board try to click it again idk why it would say you have to join a subsrciption I havent nor would I pass on something along those lines dont believe a customer should have to pay for that if you still arent able to see the diagram leave a email and il send it to you that way off to work for next 6 hrs il look for your reply when i return Thanks Rick

  • Rick Ead
    Rick Ead Mar 17, 2011

    there are no parts they sell to repair these boards they simply sell you either a brand new one or a remanufactured one I have also heard of some places that do let you send the boards to them and they rebuild them basicly when you said " it asks if the ICO2 MICOM #8 is high (5V)? If no, then it says replace the PCB and MICOM. If yes it directs you to check if IC72 #15 is about .8V" you would perform your voltage test on these two spots with the power on and check for both voltage points if either spot has no or low voltage you would replace the board otherwise you would have a compressor issue the easier way to check this is to go to the start relay wires and do a test to see if you have power going to the relay message me back with your finds i do not see that you have checked for power going to the relay or maybe i missed your post Thanks Rick

    p.s about the cheapest place to buy a new one of those boards is www.marcone.com under contact us there is a 1800 number they would be able to give you a price on how much the board runs

  • Rick Ead
    Rick Ead Mar 17, 2011

    also find those two spots there written on the board and perform the test to them and message me back your board may be different but the two spots should be the same on your board Thanks Rick

  • Rick Ead
    Rick Ead Mar 18, 2011

    try www.marcone.com they take parts back if things do not work and they are usually cheaper then the others on the site look under contact us ico8 is an intergrated circuit dc 10 should be what u would getting where on ic08 are u touching i dont think your touching the piece correctly try putting it up on a higher dc scale and then bring it down if it isnt moving the needle at all MAKE SURE YOU ARE ON THE RIGHT PIN or you will get the same readings that you have goten you would only be measureing dc you have start relay on the compressor if you can activate the relay and the compressor comes on then it would be the board do you know how to make a powered jumper wire by stripping one end the female end and hooking some connectors on the end then attaching this to the relay wireing this should jump the compressor without using the board aka bypassing the board if the compressor does not start then the compressor is bad message me back with your finds the relay has 120 volts across it to activate the compressor once again plz be careful with electrical testing always better to be safe then sorry

  • Rick Ead
    Rick Ead Mar 19, 2011

    yes you are correct that it would be one of these three if your able to do some further testing check this site it explains how to test the start relay http://www.acmehowto.com/howto/appliance...

    i think if you scroll to the following pages it will also tell how to test the overload note the parts in this link are older but the letters are all the same i will be awaiting your descion on if you want to perform these tests Thanks Rick

  • Rick Ead
    Rick Ead Mar 20, 2011

    lol love to where u at actually im heading back to east coast been stuck out here working for government for past 10 months its definetly not a sensor bud if you can remove the relay and then give it a shake to hear if you hear anything rattling inside if it rattles or is all black then its broke this is about the easiest way to tell about the relay the problem is i can only see this dam schematic which doesnt show me up close exactly what your seeing to guide you through u said you had power going to the line that goes to the start relay sooo if there is power then the board is sending the power so scratch the board off for the moment start with the relay remove it to see if you can hear anything rattleing inside then message me back well if it is rattling then you definetly need a new one I await your reply Thanks Rick
    p.s what kind of beer you serving only good beer i have found here in hawaii so far is land shark lol

  • Rick Ead
    Rick Ead Mar 20, 2011

    usually i also use what the call a 3-1 jumper and this pretty much tells me if the compressor or the relay or the board has gone tey usually sell the 3-1 at any appliance parts place but your in the middle of testing the relay any way and it bascily replaces the relay but if left on a low drawing compressor it would eventurally cook the compressor so continue testing the relay and ill await for your reply Thanks Rick

  • Rick Ead
    Rick Ead Mar 20, 2011

    one more thing whats the name on the side of the compressor is it a techumseh by any chance?
    hers another site showing how to test as wellhttp://www.refrigerator-troubleshooting....

  • Rick Ead
    Rick Ead Mar 20, 2011

    rickead1@cox.net is my email send me the pic bud usually the relay is on the outside and the overload plugs into the relay and then the two pieces plug together into the three prongs on the compressor theres metal contacts that the prongs slip around which make it energize the compressor the compressor always runs unless the unit goes into defrost at which time the pcb tells the compressor to shut off and kicks the fan into high gear to evaporate the water . I ve had the sierra nevada havent tried the smithwicks yet have to get around to that soon

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  • Master
  • 17,970 Answers

It sounds like the refrigerator evap is frozen up causing the compartment to get too hot. Shut the unit off and let it thaw out. Then take the screws out of the cover to check the stryrofoam on the back side of the cover to see if theres broken spots on it causing the air to bypass the evap causing it to freeze.

Keep us updated. Also, send us the model fridge, please.

Posted on Mar 15, 2011

  • 1 more comment 
  • ZJ Limited
    ZJ Limited Mar 15, 2011

    This is the common problem-defrost failure. Check thermostat, timer and freezer heater are working. Simple way of solution... unplug fridge for some times and after defrost completely, restart the unit.If you are sure that your device has even underwarranty, dont touch any more parts and call the servician technic, if you continue working there, could lost the warratty.

    Keep us updated.

  • ZJ Limited
    ZJ Limited Mar 15, 2011

    Jump wires at compressor and test if this work, if not, this is your problem;: keep in mind that you even have your warranty, be carefull to lost.

  • ZJ Limited
    ZJ Limited Mar 16, 2011

    1. After you dust the relay off, take a good look at it. You should see two plug-type terminals marked "S" and "M" and the slip-on terminal marked "L." Set your multitester to read ohms (usually the X1 or RX1 setting). Set the relay on a flat surface so that the "S" and "M" terminals are on the bottom.
    2. Insert one probe of your tester into the "S" terminal and one in the "M" terminal. Your tester should have a reading of "zero" ohms. Keeping the probes inserted in the terminals, turn the relay over. You should hear an audible "click" and the tester's reading should change from "zero" to "infinity."
    3. Turn the relay back over. Now, touch one probe to the "S" terminal and the other probe to the "L" terminal. The tester should read "zero" ohms. Turn it over again with the probes still on the terminals and the tester should read "infinity."
    4. Turn the relay back over. Now, touch one probe to the "M" terminal and the other to the "L" terminal. The tester should read "zero" ohms. Turn the relay over with the probes still in place and the tester's reading should not change -- it will remain at zero ohms.
    5. If your compressor relay passes this series of tests, then your relay is not the problem with your refrigerator. If it fails any one of these tests, then take it to an appliance parts shop and purchase a replacement. Replace everything back in its original position and be sure to remove the 20-ohm resistor from the capacitor before plugging the refrigerator back in.

    Additional details could find in this links:
    - Testing Relays Articles
    - Continuity Testing Articles

    Hope helps.

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  • Contributor
  • 12 Answers

If it is a self defrost model it could be your defrost heating element or temperature sensor. try unplugging it overnite with the doors open then try it again. If it works for a few weeks then acts up again then thats your problem.Almost all repairmen will tell you to try this first on any situation where warm freezers or to cold fridge s are concerned.

Posted on Mar 12, 2011

  • Don Zelonis Mar 15, 2011

    ok normal fridge temp is between 34 and 39 normal freezer temp should be between 0 and 10 if the temps stay within these ranges you are alright (did you leave it unplugged overnite) if so keep an eye on your temps. if they go up above normal after 4 to 10 days then your defrost heater is bad. on most mofels it is located behind the rear panel in the back of your freezer compartment, usually at the bottom of your evaporator coils, looks like a glass tube with heating coil inside typically 2 screws hold it in place and a wire plugged into each end. if bad it may look burnt or black or you can run a continuity check. remember always unplug frige before working on electrical items for parts and more how to info try www.repairclinic.com

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