- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
First you will need to remove all old adhesives. Fingernail polish remover will remove a lot, but silicone requires scraping, and cleaning with a nail file or such. Then use contact cement. Check the label to find one that is heat and moisture proof.
Should be able to use clear silicone sealer for the light, you may need to take the bulb out first to vent the air inside for a good seal. People use yellow weatherstrip adhesive for door gaskets, but the snaps help keep it in place - so the adhesive may not last long. You might check with an auto parts store or someone who supplies body shops for a replacement strip. Most of that kind of thing is made by aftermarket suppliers.
Hi jab500...
I would recommend a good adhesive such as 3m Weatherstrip Cement or Contact Cement to glue the gasket in place. Use a small amount of cement, in case you want to replace the seal in later times.
By glueing the gasket in place with cement it will not come loose during use.
Please take time to rate me
Replacement parts can be tough... Open the unit and you will likely find the switch itself has been pushed in too far... POSSIBLY bending a bracket it is mounted on OR sometimes pushing it out of some plastic tabs... If the tabs have been broken, then one uses an appropriate adhesive to hold the switch where it belongs... Use either a contact cement or silicone adhesive.
A quick solution to that would be 3-M Weatherstrip adhesive. It sticks to most any type of rubber or silicon based gasket quite well. But remember, it really loves human skin. There is also a gasket cement sold by whirlpool that works just as well. Remember to buy the YELLOW weatherstrip adhesive if you go the EZ way.
I have repaired speakers and surrounds with a good quality silicone sealant available from any hardware store, just make sure to let it dry for a couple of days. Rubber cement works okay too.
If it is a small hole, try repairing it with black silicon glue. Clean the area with alcohol first, and allow 24 hours for the glue to set up before use. If it does need to be replaced, it is glued to the outer drum (inside the cabinet) and also to the door opening in the cabinet. It's not hard, but is tedious to remove the old part, clean the old adhesive, use automotive contact cement (weather strip cement) to coat the rubber and tub faces first, set the boot in correctly (it should be keyed) after an initial drying period, the do the same with the outer rubber and cabinet opening.
You could try contact cement.
If it's attached to a metal strip I would use screws on it though. Not sure of what kind/brand of weather stripping you are using.
While silicone comes in a variety of different types 'aquarium' is not a type and is probably very closely related to anything you might buy with your eyes closed; making the stuff sound unique is just another way to squeeze out a few more nickels from buyers.
The films over touch-pads are generally not that expensive and are essentially 'contact cement' of the type used for fastening flooring tiles and other larger surface area items and using it for such overlays with less area isn't smart but it is cheap since the overlay can be masked and pretreated with the cement and then covered with a removable plasticized paper similar to the double sided foam tape.
Any consumer silicone will do the job and I suggest you place a wooden block over the glued area and hold it pressed on with duct tape while the silicone cures which will take some time; give it 48 hours to be sure before removing the block.
Usually in a samsung
the pipe from the drum to the pump
inside the machine
comes away from the drum
the pump end is secured with a clamp
the drum end is a push fit
there is glue on the push fit end
but the amount is miniscule
Silicon adhesive: Contact Cement: glaziers glue: all work
the model number given does not show in my samsung lists so I cant give you exact instructions for accessing the pump hose, nor can I be certain that this is the exact fault
×