Question about Whirlpool GZ5730XR Kitchen Hood

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I just took apart the light/fan wiring box for the ventahood b100. Forgot to take a picture! It's got two switches, a transformer, a condenser, and the two light connections. Three wires come to this box: red, white and black. Not sure how to connect everything back together. Help?

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White and red are hot, and the black is the ground wire.

Posted on Mar 12, 2011

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Ceiling fan 3 way switch install


The black is the hot wire, the white is natural and the black/white wire is for the light option.

Jul 02, 2013 | Dryers

1 Answer

We have a SV168n-36 Spagna Vetro Range Hood and it works well but the lights are having problems now. They only come on intermittently and when they do come on once they heat up they shut back off.


I had the exact same problem with my Spagna Vetro hood. The fan worked fine, but the lights started working intermittently and then stopped working altogether. The problem in my case was a failed transformer, which sits between the power switch and the lights and is necessary to step-down the voltage from conventional 120v to 12v to support the halogen bulbs in the unit. Although there are several steps to resolving the problem (replacing the transformer), it's really not difficult. Here's what I did to solve the problem:

1) Shut off the circuit at the breaker (always very important :^) )
2) Removed the glass arch from the top of the hood. Four screws hold it in place and are accessed from above the unit.
3) Removed the access panel above the fan and light switches. This panel is visible underneath the glass arch, when the glass arch is removed. I slid the lower section of the decorative stainless chimney cover upward to gain complete access to the back two screws of this panel.
4) I unplugged the original transformer from the light on/off switch (connected with two yellow wires on my unit). Remove the wire-nuts and disconnect the 12v leads from black and white wires that connect the transformer to the halogen bulb fixtures.
5) Using a flat-head screwdriver, I pried the transformer off the metal surface to which it was adhered with double-stick tape. This was strongly adhered and took a bit of prying.
6) Found a replacement step-down electronic transformer at the hardware store. My hood takes only two 10 to 20 watt bulbs, so only a small transformer is required. The original one I removed was rated to 70 watts max. I replaced it with a transformer rated to 60 watts max. Either was more than sufficient to cover the 20 watt load produced by my two 10 watt bulbs. Cost of the replacement was about $15.
7) Connected the replacement transformer to the hood power switch. Here, I had to be a little careful to maintain the original polarity of the wires from the switch. This is because the original transformer, though it had one white and one black wire on its 120v side, was attached to the switch via two identical-looking yellow wires, using a non-standard plastic connector. The new transformer did not have one of these connectors on its 120v input wires (black and white), and I wanted to make sure that the I wired the replacement exactly as the original had been wired. Fortunately, the original plastic connector ensured a consistent polarity. When I looked at the end of the connector, one lead was square and one lead was round and noted that the square lead had been attached to the White wire on the original transformer. The replacement transformer also had a white and black wire for its 120v side. So, I marked the yellow wire from switch that attached to the white wire through the square lead. Then, I cut off the plastic connector from the yellow wires, stripped the sheathing from them about 1/4 inch, and attached the white wire from the new transformer to the previously marked yellow wire, using a small wire nut. I then connected the black wire from the transformer to the remaining yellow wire in the same way.
8) On the 12v side of the transformer, the wires are the same color and I did not pay close attention to polarity, simply connecting each to the spliced wires leading to the halogen bulbs (that I exposed when I removed the wire nuts from them in step 4, above) using fresh wire nuts.
9) The double-stick tape that attached the original transformer to the hood remained firmly attached to the metal surface of the hood and it was still very tacky on the surface that had been attached to the original transformer. So, after I tidied up the wires in the space, I positioned the new transformer over the tape and pressed it down firmly, which seemed to adhere the new transformer to the hood pretty well.
10) With the connections completed, and power restored to the circuit at the breaker, the lights worked fine, and the fan continued to work fine. I reversed the steps I used to expose the switch and transformer.

So that's all there was to it. The cost of parts was about $20 for the transformer and a bag of wire nuts. Investigating the problem probably took more time than the actual repair, which took about 20 minutes from start to finish.

Aug 03, 2011 | Euro-Kitchen SPAGNA VETRO 198D-36...

1 Answer

Need wiring diagram for a carrier 383kav11048075? im replacing the icm281 control module. gas furnace


There should be a wiring diagram on the panel of the furnace. In the box of the icm 281 is step by step instructions.

Maybe this will help

Take notes on your low voltage wires from the thermostat and condenser. W Y R C G. Write down what color wires go to above terminals.

On your high voltage wiring,
Take the black wire from the transformer and put it on PR-1.
Take the white wire from the transformer and put it on PR-2
Take the black power wire from the panel interlock switch and connect it to L1
Take the white neutral power wire and connect it to L2
Take the black fan motor wire and connect it to HI
Take the red fan motor wire and connect it to LO
Take the white fan motor wire and connect it to COM
Then reconnect your low voltage terminal wires to W Y R C G.

Thats it.

May 03, 2009 | Carrier Heating & Cooling

2 Answers

Wire diagram for pull chain on ceiling fan hunter original


if you indeed have a 23852 hunter original...

Black goes to L, High is Red, Gray is medium and yellow is low. Make sure you have the right switch.

Mar 21, 2009 | Hunter 23852 Classic Original Ceiling Fan

1 Answer

1988 nissan sentra air conditioner. Electical problem


My 1988 Nissan AC quit working soon after having the compressor & ect replaced. AC Tecnition took the switch box out from under the dash and cleaned it. He also fixed a loose wire in it. He said this cars switch box calcimates and does not make good contact. AC works great.

Jan 18, 2009 | 1988 Nissan Sentra 2 Door

3 Answers

Ventahood fire suppression systems


the wiring has to go to the microswitches
you can add up to three micro switches,they are located in the control box
there colors should be bl,brown and red
look for nc or no(you can depress the switch by hand to see when you press itup it shuts power
it has to be repeated for the light,plugs and make-up air
to pass inspection when you press up on switches the have to shut off electric lights and make up air
you dont need a relay.
the basic system is a contactor line and load runs exhaust and make up air power in power out.
you need power just for the contactor to pull in.
you need to add a switch break hot on contactor power

Jul 02, 2008 | Kitchen Ranges

2 Answers

Light doesn't work on Kenmore Model 55022 Range hood...


If you have 120VAC on the center contact of the light socket, and a working fan, but the bulb won't light...the most likely cause would be a disconnected neutral wire (white) in the light wiring inside the hood....assuming everything else is wired correctly.

If you're comfortable with further electrical testing...let me know, and I can describe a detailed procedure to check the status of the neutral wire. Otherwise, you may need the assistance of someone familiar with electrical troubleshooting or appliance repair.

Jan 27, 2008 | Kenmore 51840 Kitchen Hood

1 Answer

Wiring


The tan is probably a worn white, age will turn it that color. Since you don't have separate switches for the light and fan, then the black (hot for fan) and blue (hot for light kit) go twisted together and hooked to the black from the box in ceiling with a wire nut. The white goes to the other white, it's the neutral wire in the schematic, which if you took apart your breaker box, is attached to the grounding clamp. There should be a green wire that will attach to the extension pole right at the ball on a ball and socket mounting or the motor casing on a flush mount. This should be attached to the green or bare wire coming out of ceiling box. Hope this helps.

Jan 26, 2008 | Hampton Bay 52 In. Cameron II Plus Ceiling...

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