Question about Roper REX4634KQ Electric Dryer

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Dryer goes on and spins but no heat. I've opened up the back but what now? Is there a specific part that if blown would cut off the heat? Model is a small one - probably cost about $300 - don't know the exact model number.

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My dryer will not heat. It is a whirlpool I have changed the element, thermal fuse, thermostat and an additional fuse(little white one). Still no heat. Whats next?

Posted on Mar 27, 2011

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The thermal cut-off at the top of the heater duct/housing blows when the high-limit thermostat below it fails to cycle the heating element on and off properly to regulate the heater temperature. This thermal cut-off along with high-limit thermostat including the cycling thermostat on the blower housing are wired in series with the heating element and power to it is cut when the thermal cut-off blows as a safety feature to prevent fire. Verify this condition by bypassing the said components. Click on the link below for the detailed instructions in troubleshooting this problem.

Troubleshooting Whirlpool and Whirlpool-Made Electric Dryers (Filter on Top and with Removable Back Panel) Running But Not Heating

Posted on Mar 12, 2011

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1 Answer

How to check if Thermal Fuse or Heating element is blown


if the fuse was bad it just wouldn't work at all,it's non resetable,it will be hard to tell what's wrong now that it's working again but if the heat did go out and come back on there's a coil that runs through the heater,this breaks and then no heat but it could make a connection again,i ve found this one time out of 10 years or you could have a loose wire but it will be hard to tell until the heat shuts down again.also when was the last time you cleaned out the dryer,it should be cleaned out and blow out the vent line at least once a year.if the heat cuts out again and you need a hand let me know,also check the wires where the cord connects to the block on the back of dryer,if wires are loose this can happen.

Dec 27, 2012 | Dryers

1 Answer

Dryer keeps going out - 3rd time since January. It tumbles but no heat. I've replaced the thermal cut off #279816 and the element #279838. I cleared out the vent all the way to the roof. I've...


Hello this will be a bit of an odd question at first but have you ever dlinted your dryer? Just as your dryer vent does get a build up of lint the dryer does as well. Click this link to view a tip I wrote http://www.fixya.com/support/r8732702-prolong_life_dryer the most important area to clean is where the blower goes into and you get at this area by removeing the rear panel of the dryer if your dryer is a type like whirlpool, kenmore, maytag all dryer need to be dlinted at least once per year to maintain the dryers ability to dry. If I am able to bring a 45 year old dryer back to life by doing this you should have no problem If you have any questions message me back this will require also the tub being removed as well but I can guarantee if the air is unrestricted the heat is able to travel unblocked and it doesnt cause blown thermistors as well . Thanks Rick

Aug 10, 2011 | Dryers

1 Answer

Maytag Neptune Electric Clothe Dryer Model MDE6700AZW Problem: Drum will not turn, no heat produced. When I start the cycle, there is one audible *click* sound and then nothing: no heat and no tumble....


Hi, If you are having problems with your gas dryer not heatingthe most common problem is that the ignitor goes bad. Even though it glowssometimes it is still not working properly. if you dryer is gas check out this gas no heat tip.... If you have an electric dryer, you can have many differentthings that can go wrong causing the dryer not to heat. check outthis electric no heat tip...

heatman101

Aug 09, 2011 | Maytag Neptune MDG9700A Gas Dryer

1 Answer

I have a Kenmore electric (front load) dryer, model number 84092500 that would spin but does not produce any heat. I tried cleaning/vacuumin the tubing that vents to the outside and resetting the circuit...


The first step of the fix has been done by cleaning the lint filter and the vent system.The next step is replacing the thermal cut-off and the high-limit thermostat both located on the blower housing. It is common that the dryer stops heating when the thermal cut-off blows open due to the failure of the high-limit thermostat to cycle off and regulate the heater temperature. The thermal cut-off cuts power to the heating element should the high-limit thermostat fails and the dryer temperature goes extremely high as a safety feature. Click on the links below for the troubleshooting and repair details.

Whirlpool and Whirlpool-made Electric Dryers (With Removable Back Panel) Not Heating
Whirlpool and Whirlpool-made Electric Dryers (Without Removable Back Panel) Not Heating

Jun 19, 2011 | Kenmore Dryers

2 Answers

Dryer still runs it just isn't getting warm


The heating element is wired in series with a thermal cut-off and a high-limit thermostat both located on the heater housing.The thermal cut-off blows open when the high-limit thermostat fails to cycle off in order to regulate the heating element temperature. When the thermal cut-off is blown, power to the element is cut-off and the dryer will not heat. Replacing both thermal cut-off and the high-limit thermostat if the former is indeed blown. Click on the links below for the troubleshooting and repair details.


Troubleshooting Whirlpool and Whirlpool-made Electric Dryers (Filter on Top with Removable Back Panel) Running But Not Heating



Troubleshooting Whirlpool and Whirlpool-made Electric Dryers (With Front Bottom Panel) Running But Not Heating

Jun 18, 2011 | Whirlpool Dryers

2 Answers

Hello< My dryer is spinning no


The problem when the dryer runs but doesn't heat is usually caused by a failed high-limit thermostat and a blown thermal cut-off both located on the heater housing. Verify this by bypassing both parts for troubleshooting purposes then running the dryer.

Disconnect power then remove the screws attaching the bottom front panel to the bottom flange of the cabinet. Slide the panel down and off the cabinet to access the heater housing.
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Remove the hex-head screw from the heater shield and remove the shield.
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Disconnect the red wire from the thermal cut-off and the red/white stripe wire from the heater. Connect the red wire disconnected from the thermal cut-off to the heater terminal where the red/white stripe wire is disconnected from.
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Reconnect power then start the dryer. The problem is indeed with the two bypassed components if the dryer heats up. Replace both the thermal cut-off and the high-limit thermostat and it should solve the heating problem. Do not use the dryer with those parts bypassed due to high risk of fire hazards. Let us know should you need further advice.

Jan 11, 2011 | Kenmore Dryers

1 Answer

Will not heat


If the model number you posted this question under is correct, your heating circuits are comprised of the following components:

1. Heating Element
2. Thermal Cut-Out
3. Hi-Limit Thermostat
4. Internal Bias Thermostat
5. Thermal Fuse

You can access them by UNPLUGGING the dryer and removing the rear panel.

As viewed from the rear of the dryer, your Heating Element will be located on the RIGHT hand side inside a heater box. The Thermal Cut-Out will be located on the outside of the heater box at the end opposite the heating element terminals. The Hi-Limit Thermostat will be located adjacent to the heating element terminals.

The Internal Bias Thermostat and Thermal Fuse are two small components mounted on the Blower Fan housing on the lower LEFT hand side.

You can refer to the following parts illustration for assistance:

http://pcappliancerepair.com/model-display.php


The components are listed as follows:

Heating Element (Item 17)
Thermal Cut-Out (Item 6) - This is a replacement kit. Includes Item 15 when ordering.
Hi-Limit Thermostat (Item 15)
Internal-Bias Thermostat (Item 20)
Thermal Fuse (Item 19)

If your dryer is NOT configured this way, please post back with your complete MODEL NUMBER (located on a nameplate around the door opening) and let me know.

If you need assistance on how to troubleshoot a dryer, you can refer to this link:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r3574266-thorough_dryer_advice

The MOST common causes of heat related problems:

1. Blown Thermal Cut-Out.

2. Missing 1/2 your input voltage at the wall receptacle (the dryer will still run with half the voltage missing, but won't heat - double check your source voltage at the receptacle and/or your circuit breakers.

3. Bad power cord, causing 1/2 the input voltage to be missing.

4. Blown heating element.

Read through all the information provided and let me know if you have any questions. I hope you find this information helpful.

NOTE: Take all resistance readings with the dryer UNPLUGGED and the component under test isolated (meaning disconnect any wire leads to ensure the accuracy of your readings).

Apr 23, 2010 | Whirlpool LER4634J Electric Dryer

1 Answer

Whirlpool dryer not heating up


If the model number you posted this question under is correct, your heating circuits are comprised of the following components:

1. Heating Element
2. Thermal Cut-Out
3. Hi-Limit Thermostat
4. Internal Bias Thermostat
5. Thermal Fuse

You can access your heating circuits by UNPLUGGING the dryer and removing the rear panel.

As viewed from the rear of the dryer, your Heating Element will be located on the RIGHT hand side inside a heater box. The Thermal Cut-Out will be located on the outside of the heater box at the end opposite the heating element terminals. The Hi-Limit Thermostat will be located adjacent to the heating element terminals.

The Internal Bias Thermostat and Thermal Fuse are two small components mounted on the Blower Fan housing on the lower LEFT hand side.

You can refer to the following parts illustration for assistance:

http://pcappliancerepair.com/model-display.php


The components are listed as follows:

Heating Element (Item 17)
Thermal Cut-Out (Item 6) - This is a replacement kit. Includes Item 15 when ordering.
Hi-Limit Thermostat (Item 15)
Internal-Bias Thermostat (Item 20)
Thermal Fuse (Item 19)

If your dryer is NOT configured this way, please post back with your complete MODEL NUMBER (located on a nameplate around the door opening) and let me know.

If you need assistance on how to troubleshoot a dryer, you can refer to this link:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r3574266-thorough_dryer_advice

The MOST common causes of heat related problems:

1. Blown Thermal Cut-Out.

2. Missing 1/2 your input voltage at the wall receptacle (the dryer will still run with half the voltage missing, but won't heat - double check your source voltage at the receptacle and/or your circuit breakers.

3. Bad power cord, causing 1/2 the input voltage to be missing.

4. Blown heating element.

Read through all the information provided and let me know if you have any questions. I hope you find this information helpful.

NOTE: Take all resistance readings with the dryer UNPLUGGED and the component under test isolated (meaning disconnect any wire leads to ensure the accuracy of your readings).

Apr 22, 2010 | Whirlpool LER4634J Electric Dryer

1 Answer

No Heat.Which terminals on the cycling thermostat do you need to check to test it.


Check the continuity of the cycling thermostat using an ohmmeter set to X1. Disconnect one wire from the cycling thermostat terminals then connect one test lead of the ohmmeter to each terminal. The reading is zero ohms for an apparently good thermostat; further test is required to check its operation.

Unscrew the cycling thermostat from the heater housing and pull it out of the dryer. Using a pair of needle-nose pliers or similar tool, hold the thermostat over a burner and verify if it clicks when heated. Carefully check the continuity immediately before it clicks again. The ohmmeter reading is infinite (open) and zero ohms when the thermostat cools down and clicks again. A good cycling thermostat cycles off when heated, and on when it cools down.

Every heating circuit component in the heater housing need to be checked when the dryer is not heating. Set the ohmmeter to X1 and measure the resistance between the heating element terminals. The resistance depends on the model of your washer. Replace it when the ohmmeter reading is infinite (open).

The thermal cut-off fails when the cycling thermostat fails to cycle off. Check the continuity of the thermal cut-off. Disconnect one wire from its terminals and connect one ohmmeter test lead to each of the terminals. The resistance is zero for a good thermal cut-off.

A blown thermal cut-off is an indication of a failed cycling thermostat. The cycling thermostat must also be replaced when the thermal cut-off is blown. Just unscrew the blown component and screw the new component in place. Specify the brand and model number of your washer for the specific replacement parts.

Warning: Disconnect power to the dryer prior to servicing to avoid the risk of electric shock.

Mar 23, 2010 | Dryers

1 Answer

I have a Kenmore Elite Model number 110.63022100 which isn't heating. I just cleaned the vent which was a problem. I assume this has caused a problem with the heating element or thermostat. What do I do...


Is the drum spinning, but not heating? Or...is the drum not spinning at all?

First, we'll assume your dryer is spinning, but just not heating. If your dryer vent was clogged as you stated, it is common for the thermal cut-out (TCO) to blow. This is a non-resettable device that acts as a fuse. Once it blows, it has to be replaced. There is also a possibility that the heating element went bad, if the TCO didn't do it's job. To check, you will have to remove the lower panel under the door. There are some screws under the bottom lip of the panel that you will have to remove and then the panel should just drop down and come off. CAUTION: Please UNPLUG the dryer BEFORE servicing anything inside. There are still dangerous voltages present with the dryer turned off.

Now located the heating element. It will be on the right-hand side encased in a heater box. There are two small components mounted to the heater box housing. The one closest to the front of the dryer is the high-limit thermostat. The one farthest to the back is the TCO. The two work in conjunction to help regulate the temperature inside the dryer, as well as, protect the heating element. Locate the two wires coming off the ceramic terminal of the heating element. Unplug these two wires and do a resistance check across the terminal. If the heating element is good, it will read about 9-13 ohms. Now remove the two wires from the TCO and perform a resistance check. The resistance should read 0 ohms (or a short) if good. If the TCO reads infinite (or open) it must be replaced. The same applies the the heating element. If the TCO requires replacement, it is strongly recommended by the manufacturer that you replace the high-limit thermostat at the same time. In many cases, the two components are sold as a set. The reason being that if the heating circuits overheat, there is a strong potential that the thermostat will be damaged as well. Replacing only one of the components can result in having the replace the other a short time later.

Now, if your dryer does not spin at all, you probably have a blown thermal FUSE. There is a difference between the thermal FUSE and the thermal CUT-OUT. The thermal fuse is located on the air blower housing right under the drum, and is a white plastic component. Remove the wires from it and perform a resistance check. It should also read a short if good. If not, it must be replaced.

If you need parts, here are the part numbers:

Thermal Cut-out/Thermostat Kit (part #2821)
Thermal Fuse (part #2923)
Heating Element (part #525502)

You can find all these parts at repairclinic.com, along with the price information & pictorial part index. Just type your model number in the search menu. I hope this helps you. If you need any further assistnace, please post back with comments and let me know.

Feb 06, 2008 | Dryers

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