Faucet leaks up by the handle, and doesn't fully turn off in certain positions. How do I repair?

1. • Test the dripping water with your hand to make sure that it is the hot water side that is leaking. Lay a rag over the sink drain to keep parts from falling down it. Locate the hot and cold shutoff valves under the sink and turn the knobs clockwise by hand until they close. If the knobs remain stiff, use a pair of pliers to gently turn them until the knob begins to move, then finish turning by hand.
     
   • 2
     Pry the decorative cap off the faucet top with a small thin, flat-head screwdriver. Remove the cap that has the "H" letter on it. Depending upon the handle screw configuration, use a flat-head or Phillips-head screwdriver to remove the handle screw. Gently pry up on the handle from all angles and pull it up and off the splines of the stem.
     
   • 3
     Use a crescent wrench to turn the hot water stem nut counterclockwise until it comes completely off the stem shaft. Wiggle the stem with your fingers and pull it out of the faucet. If the washer on the bottom of the stem is deformed, it indicates the source of the leak. However, remove the old seat from the faucet base with an Allen wrench or a seat removal tool.
     
   • 4
     Wipe out the inside of the seat housing with a rag. Replace the seat with the new one included in the repair package, using an Allen wrench or seat removal tool.
     
   • 5
     Place the new hot water stem shaft into the valve seat, and start the stem nut in by hand, turning it clockwise. Finish tightening the stem nut with the crescent wrench, but only to a moderate firmness -- do not over-tighten it. Place the handle back over the stem shaft and tap it down until it seats firmly. Replace the handle screw and tighten it with a screwdriver.
     
   • 6
     Turn the hot and cold water supply knobs counterclockwise until they are fully open. Turn the hot water faucet knob to the "On" position and check for leaks.
     

Remove the handles. See if the chrome slip nuts holding the stems in are corroded. If they are, the cartridges may not be fully seated or the o -rings that seal around the cartridges may need to be replaced. If either of these is the case you can tell for sure by turning the stems to the on position with the handles removed and looking for water seeping around the cartridge. If none of the above is the cause then check to see if the aerator (screen on the spout) is loose or corroded sending a light spray back towards the faucet body that looks like a leak. If this is the case remove and clean the aerator, then reinstall it making sure not to cross thread it. If none of the above, replace the faucet. Be sure to call Delta first before replacing because they have a lifetime warranty and you just might get your faucet for free!

When opening the faucet if the flow is not as it used to be, there could be a couple of reasons. First the machine may not be filling correctly. Check the fill probe is clean and free of scale.
The most likely scenario is that the rubber seal within the faucet has become detached and is therefor not lifting correctly. You will need to contact your local Bunnomatic service agent to either request a repair or get the seal to fit yourself. Remember to drain water out of the boiler with the machine switched off, and ensure there is no flow from the faucet before you remove the top section of the faucet to replace the seal

If you faucet is leaking, try this simple step to see if it will stop. First, turn the water supply line off under the sink. Next, open the valve that is leaking all the way open. Take a wrench and tighten the nut just below the faucet handle. Now turn the vale to off and open your supply line and then test the faucet again. What you are doing here is tightning the packing nut inside the faucet. Good luck.

These faucets can leak in three different places:

1. Internally at the valve seat
   You'll see water dripping from the spout. This means the rubber washer is worn or damaged. To replace the washer, remove the decorative cap from the handle. Remove the retaining screw and pull off the handle. Remove the decorative cover, called an escutcheon, if there is one. Unscrew the packing nut counterclockwise. Unscrew the valve stem and remove it. Remove the screw that holds the rubber washer in place. Because these washers come in many shapes and sizes, you'll want to take the old one to the hardware store and buy an exact replacement. Be sure to buy two washers so you'll have one for the other valve. Replace the washer and reassemble the faucet.
   
2. Around the handle
   If you see water coming from below the handle, the packing nut is leaking. Older faucets have a string-like graphite packing material wrapped around the stem. Newer faucets use an O-ring. First try tightening the packing nut clockwise... about one-half turn. If this doesn't stop the leak, remove the packing nut and replace the packing or O-ring; then reassemble the faucet. If the valve is using the graphite packing material, it might be a clue that you should shop for a new faucet.
   
   
3. Between a pivoting spout and the body
   The spout might be held in place with a packing nut, similar to the faucet stem, or it might have a nut at the top of the spout. In either case, remove the spout and replace the packing material or the O-ring seal. Then reassemble the faucet.

Single lever faucets also are known as "washerless" faucets. They are easier to repair than compression faucets after you determine what type of faucet you have. There are three types of washerless faucets: ball, ceramic disk and cartridge.
Leaks are evident in two places... dripping from the spout and seeping from around the spout where it joins the body of the faucet.
Leaks from the spout indicate that the ball, disk or cartridge is leaking. To repair, turn off the water to the faucet, then remove the handle. The handles on ball-type faucets are held in place with a setscrew that requires an Allen wrench to loosen. Ceramic disk and cartridge-type handles usually are held in place by a screw hidden beneath a cap.
On ball and ceramic disk-type faucets, remove the ball or disk and replace the seals. You can buy replacement kits for these faucets at the hardware store or home center.
On cartridge-type faucets, remove the spout and pull out the retainer clip that holds the cartridge in place. To remove the cartridge, pull on the cartridge stem with a twisting motion. If it resists, install the handle so you can a better grip on the cartridge to pull it out. Take the cartridge to the hardware store or home center and purchase an exact replacement kit.
Reassemble the faucet according to directions.
Leaks at the spout-to-body joint indicate an O-ring failure. Disassemble the faucet as described above. Remove the spout sleeve and replace the O-rings. It's a good idea to replace these seals if you have the faucet disassembled for repair of the ball, disk or cartridge.

You may have to put a new repair kit in faucet, but you might try tightening the adjusting nut under the handle. Loosen set screw in handle, and remove handle. There is a nut there with 4 notches in it. Delta gives you a combo allen wrench/spanner wrench for this. Try to tighten this nut. If you can't you can buy a new repair kit for this valve for about 10.00 that comes with wrench

Check this web site out for a detail explaination of how to fix your faucet. http://www.deltafaucet.com/customersupport/troubleshoot/kitchen-single-handle.html

there should be, probably a diverter problem inside the spout assembly. It is stuck between settings letting water travel through the hose and out the sprayer. It is not returning fully to resting position.

Pry the hot/cold button off the top of the handle. Make sure the water is turned off below the sink.

Under the button should be screws. Remove the screws. Pry the handle off. Remove the stems by lifting then out.

That should give you access to the washers you need to change.

Try removing cap of knob and tighten screw it could be loose. If that is not it it may need a new seal ring.